As the temperatures drop, I find myself constantly daydreaming snowy holidays and drinking tea by the fire while looking super cute and cozy. Sadly, I have yet to own a fireplace, but that doesn’t mean the cute and cozy bit doesn’t need to happen. Mood’s newest free pattern comes with two customizable views so you don’t need to sacrifice decadence for comfort. The Bixa Sweatshirt features a separate lower sleeve so sewists can mix and match their favorite knits, velours, and sequins for the perfect contrast, as well as an optional overlay that’s absolutely perfect for our beaded tulle!
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
Both View A and View B start out the same, but I’ll be showing most of the steps on View B since it’s a little easier to see the stitches against green fabric.
Begin by forming the bodice of your sweatshirt, sewing the front and back together at the shoulders and sides. If you have a serger, this is the perfect project for it, but if you’re working with a regular machine, a simple zig-zag stitch does the trick.
Next, connect the two short sides of your collar piece to make a loop with the fabric faces together. Stitch along the short edge. Fold the loop in half along the length, bringing the wrong sides together. Matching the seam with the center back of your sweater, pin the faces of your fabrics together and sew the collar to your neckline.
Here is where View A and B differ: The Sleeves.
For View A, attach your upper and lower sleeve panels. I did this with a French seam, attaching the wrong sides and then the right sides to hide the raw edges inside the seam itself.
Fold your seam allowance up and top-stitch along the edge to secure it. Sew up the inseam of your sleeves.
View B gets a little more complicated, but not to worry – it’s still super easy to piece together!
The overlay for View B is essentially a large trapezoid. Fold the shape in half, bringing the fabric faces and diagonal edges together. Stitch along the angled side with a small, 1/4″ seam allowance. (Note: if you’re using the same material as me, be sure to remove any beads from your sewing path!)
Separately, do the same with your lower sleeve panels, this time using a regular 1/2″ seam allowance. Aligning your seams, place your lower sleeves inside each overlay panel and evenly gather the overlay at the top and bottom edges of your lower sleeve.
Sew the inseam of your upper sleeve panel together, and then attach your upper and lower sleeves.
This last step finishes up both View A and B. Fold your cuffs in half along the length, bringing the fabrics faces and short edges together. Sew along what is now the longer raw edge. Matching up seams, gather the sleeve into the cuff with the fabric faces together, like you can see in the left image below.
Once once edge of the cuff is sewn, pull it right side out like you can see in the right image below. Fold the cuff in half, pushing it inside the sleeve, tuck in your raw edge and slip-stitch to complete!