Want a simple way to up your coat game this winter? Try the Blackthorn Coat. This stylish new pattern is not only versatile, but also easily constructed. Fully lined, featuring a shawl collar and bonus lined patch pockets, this sassy wool coat is perfect for keeping you warm and cozy. Super wearable for any occasion, throw it on over your favorite outfit whether you are going on a date or just going out with friends. Copy Courtney’s look by pairing it with the Forsythia Jeans. This coat will be sure to make heads turn!
Fabrics & materials used:
- 4 yards of Black and White Glen Plaid Heavy Wool Twill
- 3.5 yards of Ochre Yellow Cupro Twill Lining
- 1 spool of 10 Black 1000m Gutermann Sew All Thread
- MDF084 – The Blackthorn Coat Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
Once you have all your pattern pieces cut out and all of your notches are marked, begin by connecting your lining pieces, beginning with the center back seam, followed by the front sides and sleeves.
Set your lining aside for now and work on the main fabric. Begin by connecting the center back pieces, then attach the front pieces at the side seams. The extensions at the top of the front pattern will become your shawl collar. Line up the straight edges and connect them to each other. Once the collar has been formed you will connect the collar around the neckline to complete the shape.
Now we will work on the patch pocket. Sew the pocket lining to the main fabric all around the edge leaving the top open. Flip it right side out and pin. Then top stitch all around to close. Once it has been completed, attach it to the outside of the coat using your top stitch as your seam guide.
Next, connect your facing pieces to each other by attaching them at the very top, the same way we did with the front coat pieces. Now, connect the facing to the lining creating the entire inside of the coat. Sew the lining to the main coat inside out all around the edges but leaving the bottom hem and sleeve hems open. Flip right side out. Finish the sleeve and bottom hems by hand.
Attach your self-covered button and create your buttonhole. Your coat is now complete!
Copy Courtney’s look by making the Forsythia Jeans!
For More Ideas and Pattern Hack Using the Blackthorn Pattern, Click the Link Below:
Blackthorn Coat Redux – Free Sewing Pattern
26 comments
I love this coat! Is the shoulder dropped? Could you add your own darts for shaping? Thanks!
Yes! It is a dropped shoulder. Darts could definitely be added if so desired.
Thank you so much for the pattern! Literally printing it out right this very second, lol. I am fairly new to sewing human clothes and this is my first big project for myself. How would I go about tweaking the shoulder so it’s not dropped? This may be common sense questions, but I’m so new to this and don’t want to ruin the last bit of my fabric, please help 🙂
Hello there!
Thanks for visiting the Mood Sewciety Blog! We’re proud to have released over 350 free sewing patterns, and we hope you’re enjoying them.
Behind the scenes we’re a dedicated team of three, and we want to be able to offer top notch support. We have exciting plans for our patterns on the horizon, and as we continue to grow, we’ve decided to focus our sewist support on patterns from the last 2 years. If this pattern hasn’t been recently reduxed or updated, we won’t be able to respond to technical questions on these older posts.
If you come across any pattern errors, rest assured our team is on it – just let us know!
Don’t miss out on our Mood Sewciety Facebook Group – a fantastic space for fellow sewists to connect, share wins, and tackle challenges together.
Thank you for your understanding and happy sewing!
Best regards,
The Mood Sewciety Blog Team
Hi,
Just a question as a beginner : according to most of my measurements, I would be a size 12/14 for this coat, except for my hip measurements, which would require a size 18 or 20… Any advice?
Thanks !
Hi Chloe, we’re sorry for the delay in responding to your question! We get dozens of comments and questions each day, and so many questions get buried and, unfortunately, unanswered. We are now focusing user support on patterns 2 years and newer. We hope this will prevent questions on our more current patterns from going unanswered. Although this is late, we wanted to respond in case anyone else has the same question: we recommend using the 18/20 and grading down accordingly. We recommend making a muslin first to ensure a proper fit.
Can other types of fabrics be used besides twill?
Certainly! You may want to try a wool coating, felt, or if you are feeling adventurous you could even try it in neoprene. 🙂
Is there a size chart for this?
Hi Mary! We have a size chart included in the blog post above. 🙂
What size is the model wearing?
The coat shown is a size 18 🙂
TY
I have made this as a means coat and left the sleeve ends and hem overlocker for a rustic look. Made it in a grey wool knit effect fabric. Great pattern and so easy to use.
hello, thank you for the lovely pattern and tutorial!! 🙂 just a short question, may i know what the “front facing” pattern is for? ><
Hi Stella! That piece faces the collar and lapels of the coat. It’s a part of your lining layer, but it’s cut from your coating fabric.
Wonderful pattern! Does anyone have a blog post of another sewer who has made this? Thanks!
I just finished this coat, it was amazing! i learned so much along the way and the fit is so comfy! I love versatility of the pattern you really can customize it anyway youd like. TY
It should be possible to cut the back on fold, right?
Yes, definitely! Just be sure to remove the 1/2″ seam allowance included at the center back. 🙂
Hello! Thank you very much for this coat pattern and ideas! But are there ready garment measures? Seems the link for one image is broken…
Hi there! It seems we don’t have finished measurements for this garment :(. I think the broken image was just for a detailed shot. Thanks for letting us know!
Hi, I just started printing this pattern, and I was wondering if the Mood logo square should always be the 2×2 inches?
Hi Katariina, We’re sorry for the late reply, but yes the Mood logo square should always be 2×2 inches.
Hi – thanks for the lovely pattern, i’m planning to make this in a fake fur (not very thick!) as a longish jacket, stopping just below the pocket…. is it possible to tell me roughly how much fabric I’ll need? Im going to make it in 8/10
thanks!
Jane
Hello there!
Thanks for visiting the Mood Sewciety Blog! We’re proud to have released over 350 free sewing patterns, and we hope you’re enjoying them.
Behind the scenes we’re a dedicated team of three, and we want to be able to offer top notch support. We have exciting plans for our patterns on the horizon, and as we continue to grow, we’ve decided to focus our sewist support on patterns from the last 2 years. If this pattern hasn’t been recently reduxed or updated, we won’t be able to respond to technical questions on these older posts.
If you come across any pattern errors, rest assured our team is on it – just let us know!
Don’t miss out on our Mood Sewciety Facebook Group – a fantastic space for fellow sewists to connect, share wins, and tackle challenges together.
Thank you for your understanding and happy sewing!