With temperatures freezing one day and then warm the next, one can never have too many coats. Oversized coats are my personal preference, allowing me to add and subtract layers throughout the day as the temperatures fluctuate. Our Blair Oversized Coat Free Sewing Pattern is very oversized indeed! Enough to wear a chunky sweater underneath and still have room for more. Sewn in our lush Chartreuse Boiled Wool, this coat is giving me major vintage army surplus vibes. Pair this with our Adair Cargo Pants, a black turtleneck, and some Dr. Martens combat boots and you’ve got the perfect fall outfit.
A few notes before you get started:
This coat is intentionally generously oversized. We made a size 10, as pictured on the dress form and on Erin who is a size 22. If you prefer something less oversized, refer to the Finished Garments Measurements chart to select your desired fit!
Because this boiled wool has a bit of stretch, it has the tendency to “grow” at the seams once the garment is being worn. To prevent this from happening, I used twill tape. This acts as a nice seam finisher too!
How to sew the belt & loops:
1. Sew the belt pieces right sides together, at one short end. Trim the seam allowance and press open.
2. Right sides together, fold lengthwise and sew. Trim SA. Use a loop turner to bring the belt right side out. Press. Fold each end under and press, then sew shut.
3. Fold two sides of the belt loops under ½”. Press and sew.
4. Fold in half, right sides together. Sew, trim the SA, then turn right side out and press.
5. Using the belt loop markers as a guide, pin the belt loops onto the back and front coat pieces.
6. Turn back the top edge to stitch the bottom edge to the coat. Repeat with all the belt loops. Alternatively, if you’re using a less bulky fabric, topstitch the top and bottom of the belt loops to the jacket.
How to sew the coat:
1. Measure the side, CF back, and shoulder seams of your coat, then cut the twill tape to length.
2. With one of your back coat pieces, pin the twill tape to the CB. Since the seam allowance and twill tape are both ½”, I pinned the tape slightly further inward so it would be securely sewn into the seam.
3. Baste the tape.
4. Repeat with both front coat pieces, only this time baste the twill tape onto the side and shoulder seams.
5. Sew the back coat pieces together at the CB.
6. Trim the seam allowance on the fabric, not the twill tape.
7. Press the seam to one side so that the twill tape is visible.
8. Welt stitch the twill tape down so that it covers the seam.
9. Repeat with the front coat pieces at the side seams.
10. On the front coat pieces, pin the facing to the wrong side. Align notches and baste to the shoulder.
11. Sew the front coat pieces to the back at the shoulder seams, right sides together.
How to sew the pockets:
1. Fold the pockets down ½”, press, then hem 2”. Press, then sew.
2. Fold the sides and bottom down ½”, then press.
3. Place the pockets on top of the coat’s side seams, using the transferred markings from the pattern as a placement guide.
4. Topstitch the sides and bottom of each pocket.
How to sew the sleeves:
1. Turn the sleeve cuff under ½”, press, then sew a 2” hem.
2. Sew twill tape to the top edge of each sleeve.
3. Fold one sleeve right sides together and sew along the long edge. Trim the seam allowance and press. Repeat with the other sleeve.
How to sew the collar & facing:
1. Fold the collar lengthwise, right sides together. Sew the two short ends, then trim the seam allowance and clip corner. Turn right side out and press.
2. Align the raw edges of the collar to the coat’s neckline, right sides together. Line up the notches, then pin.
3. Right sides together, pin the facing to the front edge of the coat. Sandwich the collar between the layers. Repeat on the other side.
4. Sew the facing, and the collar beneath, to the coat. Stop when you reach the end of the facing, near the shoulder seam.
5. Grade the seam allowance, open up the facing, and press. Under stitch, then fold back under and press.
6. Open up the unsewn portion of the collar, and sew the outer side to the back neck, right sides together. Grade the seam allowance, and press it towards the collar.
7. Pin the inner collar down ½” and stitch in the ditch.
How to finish the coat:
1. Double hem the bottom of the coat ½” + 2”. Press, then sew.
2. Optional: use an invisible stitch by hand to keep the facing in place.