Do you like the look of a corset, but don’t want to be totally exposed? The Briar Top, Mood’s newest free sewing pattern, is the perfect piece to add to your fall wardrobe. It’s a combination of a comfy t-shirt and an on-trend corset all in one! This look is great for utilizing Mood’s premium selection of rib knit fabrics.
1. Print, tape, and cut out your pattern.
2. Mark all notches.
3. Starting with your lining layer, take your center front piece and lay it out flat. Add your middle front pieces, face-to-face, matching notches.
4. Now, attach the side front to the middle front, matching the notches.
5. Similarly, attach your side back to your side front, matching notches.
6. Finally attach your back pieces to your side back, matching notches.
7. Press seams open nice and flat. I would suggest doing a test fit here, making sure you have the right amount of space in the back that you want. Note: At this step, you have finished the lining and will do the exact same on the outside bodice, skipping boning section to follow.
8. Start cutting your pieces out of the boning. Make sure you cut all the way to the top of each seam. You will be cutting the boning to adjust to the seam allowance on the top and bottom. I suggest doing one set at a time so you don’t get confused and switch them up. Keep in mind that the boning comes wrapped around in a circle and curl at the edges. The solution to making them flat is to use an iron and a press cloth on a low temperature. See the example below:
9. Place the boning on one of the seams. Cut off 1/2″ on both sides, leaving a round tip using your non-fabric scissors. Now pin the boning to the lining of your bodice and stitch on both sides. Leave the top and bottom open, just in case you have to trim again as you go along.
10. Repeat Step 9 eight times to complete the corset portion of your top.
11. Topstitch the outside bodice layer along the seams. Since the rib knit can be tricky to see the seam, mark the back seam allowances at ¼”, then topstitch.
12. Baste the bottom of the front bodice.
13. Gather front bodice to lower bodice, making sure the center front and side seams are matched on each piece.
14. Pin front bodice to the right side of the outer ribbed bodice, (not the boned bodice) matching center fronts together. Using those same pins, pin the lining bodice matching each seam, and sandwiching the bodice between both ribbed layers. Sew in between the two points.
15. With right sides together, attach the back bodice to the front bodice at shoulder seams.
16. Now that the bodice is attached at the shoulder seams, pin the sleeves into the armscye, matching the notches, and stitch.
17. Now fold the sleeve over so the inseams lay face-to-face, pin, and stitch. You are just sewing the sleeve inseam part, nothing else in this step.
18. Fold/pin the sleeve back to sew the rest of the bottom bodice shut.
19. Trim the corners and understitch to the lining. Since the rib knit is doubled, use a longer stitch length so it will be easier to sew. After you understitch, give it a nice press and make sure everything matches nicely.
20. Sew the neckband at the center back using a 3/8″ seam allowance.
21. Fold the neckband downward in half, wrong sides together, and pin. Match the center back seam to the center back of the shirt and pin. Using your stretch stitch, sew the neckband along the neckline. Note: Make sure to stretch as evenly as possible so your neckline doesn’t bunch or gather.
22. Next, hem the back of the shirt 1″, folding over a ½” and then another ½” to create a clean finish. Pin and stitch. Keep in mind, the rib knit bodice is going to lose a 1/2 in so make sure you hem according to that length where they’ll meet at the side seams.
23. Take your back piece and pin the right side of the back to the lining at the side seam. Then stitch straight down.
24. Using the burrito method, push the top in and place a pin at each princess seam. Stitch across, leaving the sides open. Note: Double-check that the boning does not extend into the allotted 1/2″ hem allowance. If it does, you need to trim some off before you sew.
25. Flip right side out and press the bottom nice and flat.
26. Now, hem your sleeves using the same method you did for your back piece. If you want to, you can also keep the sleeve unhemmed and let the knit roll up to form a natural hem.