I think it’s fair to say that we all became a tad obsessed with a certain Regency-era drama that debuted last month, and similarly, so did our wardrobes. I don’t know about you, but my closet is sporting more wispy layers and puffy sleeves than ever since I binge-watched Bridgerton, and with Mood’s latest free sewing pattern, yours can too. The Bridgerton Dress features a high empire waist, a sleek square neckline, and puff sleeves with the cutest ribbon detailing.

Purchase Materials Used Below:

• 2-4 yards Arcalod Sage Double-Wide Polyester Voile (NOTED AS FABRIC A ON PATTERN)
  • Note: This fabric is double wide at 118″ and I was able to fit the skirt portion for a size 10 on less than one yard of fabric. If using a standard width fabric, please at least double your yardage.
• 1-3 yards Mood Exclusive White Asparagus Candid Countenance Cotton Poplin (NOTED AS FABRIC B ON PATTERN)
• 1/2 yard Whisper White Stretch Cotton Poplin (NOTED AS LINING ON PATTERN)
• 2-3 yards Italian Navy Floral Jacquard Ribbon – 0.375″ (For sleeves)
• 2 yards Italian Navy Floral Jacquard Ribbon – 0.625″ (For waist)
• 1 109 Sage Invisible Zipper – 9″
• MDF237 – The Bridgerton Dress Sewing Pattern (free download below!)

Alternative Recommended Fabrics:

• Voile
• Chiffon
• Organza
• Brocade

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All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.

To start, place your bodice pieces face up with the overlay over the top. Sew the darts into the front bust and back as if your FABRIC A and FABRIC B were one piece of fabric, like below. Clip the corner of your front bust darts and press the dart open. Press your back dart toward the side seam. Attach the front to the back pieces at the shoulder and side seams using a regular seam and press them open as well.

You can create your bodice lining similarly and set it aside for the time being.

Before creating your sleeves, we’ll want to create the upper gathering. Following the guide on your pattern (which should be 3.5″ from the bottom edge of your sleeve), sew a long basting stitch. Pull one of the threads to gather your sleeve along this stitch to your desired finished sleeve circumference.

For example, this size 10 sleeve finished at 11″ around. So, I gathered this portion to 11″ with a half-inch ungathered at either end for seam allowance. You may want to gather more or less depending on your arm circumference. Personally, as someone who wears a size 18 in Mood’s patterns, I’d gather my sleeve to finish at 15″.

Once the sleeve is evenly gathered, top-stitch your ribbon into place.

Sew the inseam of your sleeves using a French seam and set them aside for the next step.

Next, create your sleeve linings, sewing up the inseam of them as well. I used a regular seam here and pressed it open, but you could use a French seam to keep the inside of your garment a bit more neat.

Baste along the top edge of both your sleeve and sleeve lining and gather them into each other, pinning them first at the inseam like below. The sleeve lining will gather slightly in order to fit into your armscye, but the sleeve itself will gather a lot to create all the puffy volume.

Once the gathering is even and to your liking, pin and sew each sleeve into its respective armscye. Here you can use a regular seam as the seam allowance will be hidden later when you attach your bodice lining.

Double roll the bottom edge of your sleeve lining inward 1/2″ and pin to the upper sleeve of your lining. This can be slip-stitched or top-stitched into place along the ribbon.

Baste the bottom edge of your sleeve and gather to the same circumference as the upper gathers.

Cut four more pieces of ribbon to one inch longer than your finished sleeve circumference. Sew the ends of each closed, faces together and press the seam open.

Pair the ribbons off and place one inside along, wrong sides together as you see below. Stitch along the very bottom edge of the two ribbons to create a sort of binding.

Gather the bottom edge of your sleeve into each binding and sitch into place to complete your sleeves.

If you’re using the same double-wide fabric as I am, you may be able to fit your skirt overlay along one piece of fabric and omit your overlay side seams. (Yay!)

If not, sew the front and back panels of your overlay at the side seams using French seams. Faces together, pin your overlay to your bodice at the CF, CB, and side seams before evenly gathering the rest of the overlay into the bodice. Stay-stitch into place. (You could also opt to use a gathering foot for your machine.)

Your skirt underlay can be created the same way, although it only gathers slightly into the bodice. When attaching the underlay, use a regular stitch rather than a stay-stitch.

Leaving a 1/2″ seam allowance at the top, insert your invisible zipper at the CB seam here.

Next, pin your bodice lining to your bodice face to face along the neckline. Sew, clip your seam allowance at the corners and curves, and turn right side out. Press well along the sewn edge and press the raw edges along the bottom and armscyes inward a half-inch.

Pin the folded/pressed edges of your bodice lining along the bottom of your bodice and armscyes, tucking in the raw seam allowances. Slip-stitch them into place.

Sew down the remainder of your CB seam along your underlay and overlay separately with French seams and hem each layer with a small rolled hem.