It seems that skinny jeans are being shoved to the side this year as wide-leg or loose-fit silhouettes are chosen more and more often. The Calamint Jeans are the perfect blend of vintage and modern, with a high-waist and a straight-leg boyfriend fit. Create yours in a classic denim or jump on the colorful jeans trend with Mood’s Stratton twill!

Purchase Materials Used Below:

• 2 yards Bright Navy Cotton Denim Twill
• 1/2 yard Cotton Poplin for Pocketing
• 1 Navy Metal Zipper with Gold Pull and Teeth – 6″
• 1 pkg Silver Dritz 6 Jean Buttons
• 1 pkg Schmetz Sewing Machine Double Hemstitch Needle
• 1 spool Denim Thread
• MDF221 – The Calamint Jeans Sewing Pattern (free download below!)

Alternative Recommended Fabrics:

• Denim
• Heavyweight Twill
• Canvas

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All seam allowances are 3/8″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.

Cutting layout: Be sure you are cutting on the fold, with all pattern pieces laying on their correct grainline, right sides of fabric facing each other.

Note: I highly recommend laying out all pattern pieces before cutting to ensure you have the best ‘fabric consumption’ layout with your pattern pieces.

ALL SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE ⅜” INCLUDED IN PATTERNS

My layout photo is using the beta version (before multiple sizes were added) of the pattern pieces so a few may look somewhat different.

Sewing Instructions:

Taking your Back Pant Leg and your Back Yoke we will attach corresponding yoke pieces to the corresponding back leg first:

The finished join should look like this for both Back Pant leg/Back yoke:

After you have joined the Back Pant leg to Back Yoke for either pant leg, you will clean finish with a merrow or a short/wide zig-zag the raw edges of the seam you just sewed.

Next, you will do two rows of topstitching, using either your double-needle or two single rows of topstitching to your desired distance from each other (No more than ⅜” distance apart so you can catch the seam allowance on the underside to lay flat) 

*Seam allowance will point down toward pant leg

Preparing the pocket:

• Press down the top edge of the pocket (wider is the top) ⅜” and then ⅜” fold again
• Press the bottom of the pocket up toward the top as shown
• Do two rows of topstitching same ⅛” from the top and bottom fold using thread to match, if you use contrast thread be sure the bobbin matches that thread 
• Press in either side of pocket ⅜” (See second photo)
• Stitch either side and bottom fold of pocket CLOSEST to the raw edge ⅛” (See third photo below)

To align pocket placement with your back pant leg, fold back pattern along pocket placement indications and place a pin (Chalk can be difficult to remove from your denim, or you can thread baste each corner of the pocket placement)

Using silk pins, pin along sides and bottom of the pocket to topstitch in place along those sides. ⅛” from the folded edge of the pocket. *Be sure to use back-tack or BARTACK (small/narrow zigzag that creates a reinforced tight overlap of your pocket edge to join to the pant at the top opening)

Clean finish the full perimeter of your Back Pant leg (both left and right leg) with a zig-zag or serge stitch (on merrow machine) 

With right sides facing one another, sew the back rise of the Back Pant legs together as shown, ⅜” seam allowance:

Open to reveal your attached back pant legs, with tailor ham press seam allowances (from wrong side) towards the right as show, followed by two rows of topstitching:

*After topstitching is completed, set your Back Pant aside, it is best to store these laying flat with right sides facing each other.

Take your Pocket Facing and zigzag or merrow the bottom edge as pictured below to both pieces (clean finish:)

Take your Pocket Bag (lining for pocket) and your Pocket facing and place on either piece as shown, topstitch ⅛” with an elongated straight stitch as a ‘stay stitch:’

Placing Pocket Lining which is now attached to Pocket facing, right side down toward either FRONT pant leg as pictured, we will pin in place as shown:

Stitch Along pocket opening ⅜” for either front pant leg:

Flip so you can see the right side of your Front Pant (*Optional add tiny coin pocket at this point, you can measure the specs from an existing pant and add ⅜” seam allowance to the perimeter, press back and topstitch to the desired pocket facing location)

Seam allowance is so shallow I do not recommend clipping before you flip to do the topstitching, you can press from the right side so you have a clean curve – in order to keep your pocket curve very clean before topstitching two rows:

For the bottom of the Pocket Bag we will do a FRENCH SEAM, sew wrong sides together with  ⅛” seam allowance then we will flip and sew the right sides together with ¼” seam allowance, repeat on both Front pant legs, and press:

⅛” stitch along bottom of Pocket Lining/Bag:

Tack in the highlighted areas as noted in the photo, then clean finish entire perimeter of Front Pant legs:

Before attaching the zipper, measure 1/2 “ distance front FIRST zipper tooth to RAW END of top of the zipper tape, trim at the 1/2 “ height.

The Wearer’s right side of Front Pant will not have ‘Shield’ extension, we will cut this away from ONLY the picture Front Pant piece in the photo. 

• Attach zipper with the right side of the tape facing the right side of Front Pant fabric after pressing the fly back toward the wrong side of the pant. The zipper will be sewn with 1/8” seam allowance from CF edge of pant FRONT RISE:

*Once the zipper is attached you will lay the FLY overtop and stitch ⅜” seam allowance as shown in the following steps:

This pattern piece is cut on the fold and will be attached to the wearer’s right side of the Pant Front as shown. To prepare the Fly press with wrong sides together and clean finish the bottom curved edge indicated in the photo below, then we will pin and sew where the dashed line is illustrated ⅜” seam allowance:

 After you have attached the Fly to the Front Pant, clip ¼” to release the Fly so it can be pressed flat in the following photo:

Flip open to expose zipper and press:

Press and topstitch Front Pant area so it is nicely aligned with the zipper:

On the opposite Front Pant leg, PIN and hand baste the other side of the zipper so the tape is centered with that side of the CF of the pant leg as shown. You will only catch the ‘Fly Shield Extension:’

*I highly recommend basting this in by HAND before attaching at the machine: 

Below Zipper stopped at CF rise you will BASTE BY HAND both Front Pant crotch seams and topstitch ⅛” to attach:

Sew ‘J-curve’ two rows of topstitching to secure the zipper shield to the Front Pant wearer’s left side, be sure your topstitching matches the direction of your back rise topstitching

Sew your inseam and do two rows of topstitching if desired

Sew your outseams ⅜” seam allowance

*Optional but suggested: Topstitch your outseam/side seams from the top edge (waist) of pant 6-½” deep to secure the pocket and hip area stress point of jeans 

Waistband:

Pin waistband in place so that right side of waistband is facing the right side of the pant – do not fully attach the entire waistband as the opposite side will catch the raw edges of the waist seam as pictured (you can hand baste if you feel  you may need to make any fit adjustment)

*Optional: You can sandwich your belt loops in place at the indicated notches and attach those at the SAME time as attaching  your waistband

BELT LOOPS: PRESS INSIDE SEAM ALLOWANCES ALONG ⅜” INDICATION AND DO ROW OF TOPSTITCHING ON EITHER SIDE ⅛” FROM EDGES, IF DESIRED DO TOPSTITCH TO INDICATE THE ⅜” SEAM ALLOWANCE ON TOP AND BOTTOM AS A GUIDE FOR WHERE TO FOLD WHEN ATTACHING

Sew right sides together lengthwise, and close either side of waistband with ⅜” seam allowance, clip your corners, flip and press. 

Press seam allowance of waistline up toward the waistband

Top Stitch full perimeter of the waistband to enclosed and attach to the full circumference of the waist.

Attach button closer, double-check with placement on the pattern piece, be sure the overlap is even and apply buttonhole to wearer’s left side of the waistband 

Hem at the desired length.

Bar tack in high-stress locations (like pockets) if desired.