With real leather on the rise in fashion right now, your budget may be screaming at you. When it comes to leather though, sometimes less is more. The Calanthe Dress features contrast cuffs, a patch pocket, and a paneled belt, all perfect for piecing together on a small leather hide or two. Rather than jumping on the “all leather everything” trend, try elevating this simple square neck dress with a few elegant leather details.
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 4 yards Gray and Pure Cashmere Plaid Linen Woven
- 2 hides Small Estate Chocolate Stretch Lamb Leather
- 7 Italian Dark Brown 4-Hole Plastic Button -40L/25mm
- MDF220 – The Calanthe Dress Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
Alternative Recommended Fabrics:
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
First, attach your side front bodices to their respective side front skirts at the waistband. Since this dress is unlined, I recommend using French seams to keep the inside of your garment clean. Although, if using a fabric that doesn’t fray to badly, you could also use regular seams and press them open, like below.
Repeat with your side back bodice and side back skirt. Once each side panel is created, it can be attached to the center panels. Side front attaches to each center front, while side back panels attach on either side of the center back.
The front and back of your dress can then be attached at the shoulders and side seams.
Form each of your sleeves, sewing up the inseam, and then insert into each armscye. Since it needs to be gathered along the top, I recommend using a regular seam here, bound with bias tape for a clean edge.
Create the sleeve cuffs like below and gather the bottom of each sleeve into a cuff.
Finish the raw edge of your neckline with a 1/4″ rolled hem and do the same along the bottom of the skirt.
Fold the center front edges of your dress inward 1/2″ followed by a full inch. Press and stitch into place to create your button plackets. Evenly place your buttons and buttonholes along the placket.
Fold the top edge of your pocket down one inch and stitch. Fold the raw edges under 1/2″ and pin onto your skirt. Top-stitch into place.
Since I was working with a natural leather hide, I freehanded my belt based on the size of the hide, but the pattern does include a piece for a symmetrical. Sew your 4 pieces together along the short edges and then fold it in half along the length, faces together. Sew along the raw edges, leaving 3″ open to pull it right side out. Once it’s right side out, top-stitch along the edges to complete.
Will you be trying the Calanthe Dress? Let me know what fabric types you’re considering in the comments below!
34 comments
Are there line drawings?
Yes, there’s a line drawing next to the materials list! 🙂
Thanks! The page must not have loaded fully before.
Love this dress! Such a great idea for using leather!
Love this pattern. I have, in my fabric stash, muted brown/gray/black/cream plaid yardage and matching brown ultrasuede. I was wondering what I was going to sew with it. Now, I know! Thanks, Courtney.
cottage core is the way
I’m now seeing this dress. It’s simple but beautiful in it’s own way. I just requested it, so I’ll be trying it out. Thanks much.
How would you recommend lengthening the skirt?
Hi Rina! The easiest way would probably be the cut and spread technique: cut horizontal lines evenly across the skirt pieces, spread each piece the same distance apart, and tape them down onto some pattern paper. Then, redraw the side lines by connecting the top and bottom points with a straight edge. 🙂
Does the pattern include the 1/2″ seam allowance, or should that be added in addition? Thanks 🙂
Hi, Ellen! Yes, a 1/2″ seam allowance is already included. 🙂
Thank you so much!
How many yards should I buy for a size 24? Does XL include 24?
Hi Fay! The chart up top recommends 4.5 yards for an XL (24-30). 🙂
I just made this dress in a blue and green plaid and it came out ADORABLE. The sewing gods blessed me while making this one; I didn’t have to alter anything (I made a size 20/22 the pattern was perfect as is!) and I didn’t have to seam rip anything! I left off the front pocket and instead put pockets in the side because it’s more comfortable for me. I do think there is a typo on the pattern, the cuff piece says to cut one of the contrast fabric and I defiantly needed two of these pieces. The dress is also a little shorter than I expected so I will be adding a strip of the contrast fabric to the bottom to give it a little more length. I’m 5’8″ so it could just be that I’m tall. I LOVE the puffy sleeves and fit and I can’t wait to wear this into the office! Thank you for such a wonderful pattern!
Hello! I’m planning on sewing this dress soon but I’m not sure how to finish the neckline cleanly. Other than that, really cute dress and thanks for the free pattern.
Hi, Andrea! I finished the neckline with a small rolled hem, but you can also use some bias tape by sewing it to the right side and flipping it to the wrong side and top-stitching. 🙂
I plan to make this in a blue linen with side seam pockets and some added length. Very much the vibes I’m going for. I might also make the buttons functional for ease of dressing. Love these patterns thank you
Just finished this dress today and I LOVE it! The pattern was easy to follow (my first dress pattern) and it looks amazing. I’m a size 4 – 6 and used less than 2 yards of fabric.
This looks fab. I have some rifle paper company cotton. I think it’s just 100% cotton that I think this would look nice in. I will lengthen it as I am 5 ft 10 ins and perhapps just elastic casing for the cuffs as I am vegetarian. I might make this for the #frugalfrocks2021 challenge so will have to think about what I am going to use for the belt. Will probably just do a deep thick interfaced main fabric sash. Thank you very much x
A very pretty dress! Is it drafted for a B cup?
This dress is so cute!!! Do you think it would be suitable for cotton sateen?
Yes, that would look lovely! 🙂
I’m almost done sewing this dress and I’m in love, hade to adjust it a bit since I’m a bit curvier than the measurements, but it’s simple to alter. I also shortened the sleeves so the look even puffier!!
Can someone film a tutorial on how to tie the belt like that? Lol. But seriously!
Lol, it’s actually just a regular bow but the one loop is pulled all the way through! If that makes sense 🙂
Just done sewing the whole piece. I used a brown/green instead of the color on the picture. It looks wonderful. I only have to put the buttons and make the belt. Thanks so much for the patterns.
I just finished this dress in time for Thanksgiving! I used 70’s fall themed floral fabric from a thrift store, and it turned out so cute! The dress is a bit short on me (5’7″), so I’ll be wearing it with leggings for a family appropriate Thanksgiving . This was also a great way to use some faux leather I had leftover from a different project. Thank you for the pattern!
hice este vestido, pero tuve un problema con el patrón, estaba muy ancho, lo pude resolver y me encantó ♥ supongo que tuvo que ver con la impresora jajajaj
Looks like a super cute dress! Just wanted to give you a heads up – the sizing chart appears to have a few typos in the waist measurement row. I think it just goes up by 1/2″ each size? Sizes 7 and 9 actually go down in circumference on the chart.
What other types of fabric can I use to make this dress.?
Hi Gina! We suggest cotton sateen, a lightweight wool suiting, or silk shantung & dupioni for a more luxe look. 😀
Hi! I was wondering how long the skirt is, about where on the leg would it land? Above the knee?
Hello! Measuring from the waist to the finished hem, the skirt varies between 16.5″ – 17.5″. 🙂