From clear PVC boots to vinyl purses, being pretty in plastic is yet again on trend! I think it has us all subconsciously humming the “I’m a Barbie Girl” tune. Oh yeah, this is absolutely a mood! I was getting all kinds of pop and R&B 90’s vibes while working on the Calypso Jacket free sewing pattern! Quilted and covered in vinyl, but also paired with wool-cashmere? Wait, what? And it’s constructed like a moto jacket with panels and side zip pockets? Girl!! This pattern is for those who love versatility. Fully lined and packed with style, the Calypso Jacket would be great worn with a solid or striped knit shirt. Or try your own unique combo for the jacket using one of the many quilted and wool coating fabrics Mood has to offer! Just make sure you let us know how you plan on slaying this look!
Fabrics & materials used:
- 4 yards of Italian Green Wool
- 2.5 yards of Green Square Quilted Coating
- 4 yards of Picante Bemberg Lining
- 2pcs Black Plastic Molded Zipper 6″
- 1pc Black Plastic Molded Zipper 25.5″
- 2 spools of 100m Guitermann Spectra All-sew Thread
- 1pk Heavy Duty Snaps
- MDF099 – The Calypso Jacket sewing pattern (free download below)
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
Here’s how to sew:
- The jacket is cut in panels so we’ll have top panels and bottom skirt panels. First, let’s attach the top and bottom panels of the side fronts together. Next, attach the center front top and bottom skirt panels together. Then attach the top and bottom skirt panels for the center back.
- Let’s pin together our sleeve upper to the lower sleeve. Stitch together and complete the sleeve by sewing along the underarm seam. Set sleeves aside.
3. Using the guide, mark the pocket placement on the lower skirt panel of the side front. Pin pocket facing to the front aligning it over your markings. Stitch the pocket facing to the front by stitching directly on your marking, outlining the pocket opening. Cut a slit through the facing and coat fabric down the center of the pocket creating the opening. Slit fabric at each corner of the pocket opening. Turn pocket to inside and press. Pin pocket zipper to the opening and topstitch in place. Pin the pocket backing to the facing creating the pocket bag. stitch and trim of excess seam allowance.
4. Apply fusible to center front facing pieces. Now let’s attach the zipper to our jacket front. Separate the zipper. With the right side of the zipper tape facing the right side of the fabric, pin zipper to the right side of the jacket in-between the facing and center front. On the opposite side, pin the zipper to the left side of the jacket between the side front and center front princess seam. Make sure to align zipper at the zipper notch and stitch in place. Attach the left facing piece to the left side of the jacket.
5. Once the zipper and facings are done, you can attach the front of the jacket to the back at the sides seams. Press all seam allowances open.
6. Prepare the lining. You will be using the side front, center front, and back top panels and all bottom skirt panels to create the lining patterns as one piece with no panel seam. So, tape pattern pieces together before cutting the lining. With right sides of fabric together, pin the side front lining to the center front lining. Stitch and press seams. Pin the back lining pieces together at center back seam and press. Now attach the front lining to the back lining at the side seams and press. Prepare the linings for the sleeves and attach the sleeves to complete the lining. Set the lining aside.
7. Next, we are going to prepare the belt loops for our jacket. The belt loops can be easily self-drafted. The belt is 2″ wide so I made my belt loops 2″x 1″ then added my seam allowance. You will fold the belt loop in half so the final width should be around 1/2″. Make sure to apply fusible to belt loops before sewing.
8. With right sides of fabric together, fold over the belt and stitch along the length of each side leaving an opening at one end. Turn the belt right side out and press. Topstitch along the entire length of the belt. Stich the opened end closed and add on the belt buckle and stitch it in place. Set aside.
9. Next, apply fusible to wrong sides of fabric on collar pieces. With right sides of the collar together, pin in place along the top edge and stitch. Trim seam allowance and press.
10. Attach lining to jacket at front facings and press.
11. With the wrongs side of fabric together, place the lining inside of the jacket. Pin right sides of the sleeve lining to the outer coat at the sleeve cuff opening and stitch. Turn jacket sleeves right side out and press at cuff opening.
12. Slip stitch the collar closed on the inside of the collar neck. The snaps on the jacket are actually “faux snaps” so you’ll only attach the top part of the snap. Follow the instruction guide for the Dritz Heavy Duty Snap Plier Kit.
13. Now hem the bottom of the jacket and you’re done! This jacket rocks so enjoy wearing it!!