The Cardinal Blouse – Free Sewing Pattern

One of the best ways to start out the new year is with a new top from Mood! However, this is not just your ordinary kind of top; you get two tops from one pattern! Who doesn’t love that?  Check out Mood’s newest shirt pattern, The Cardinal Blouse, using their wide variety of prints, cotton, and shirting.

Purchase Materials Used Below:

Ruffle Option:

• 2-3 yards Italian Navy and Antique White Shepherd’s Check Rayon Twill
• 9 Italian Black Zamac Shank Back Button – 18L/11.5mm
  MDF283 – The Cardinal Blouse Sewing Pattern (free download below!)

Statement Sleeve Option:

• 2-3 Mood Exclusive Meteorite Joy of Juliet Metallic Pinstriped Viscose Dobby
• 1 yard White Elastic – 0.25″
• MDF283 – The Cardinal Blouse Sewing Pattern (free download below!)

Statement Sleeve Option:

Step 1

Print, tape, and cut your pattern. 

Step 2

Lay pieces out on fabric and cut. 

Step 3

Cut out a strip of fabric that is 2’’ width X 35’’ length. This will be your tie for the front of the bodice. Once cut out, fold in half, pin, and sew at ½’’. Trim and flip.

Step 4

Cut two strips of fabric that are 4’’ in length and 1’’ wide, these will be for the loops.  Fold in half, pin, and sew at ¼’’.  Once sewn, flip right side out with your loop turner and cut to 1 ¾’’ strips. You will have so you can throw it away. 

Note: They are cut in two strips so that it’s easier to turn right side out. Feel free to do one entire length. 

Step 5

Cut a 1 ½’’ bias tape that is 36’’ in length for the neckline.

Note: You may need to sew two pieces together to save fabric. 

Step 6

On the front bodice, baste two lines of stitching to gather to fit the front yoke.

Note: I only did one row because the fabric was so lightweight.

Step 7

Using a French seam, pin the shoulder to the front yoke wrong sides together and sew. (The second photo is the other side.)

Step 8

On the back of the shirt, sew a basting stitch along the top. Gather to fit the back yoke.

Step 9

Pin the outside yoke right side together, and then the inside yoke wrong side together. Sew a regular seam here. Once sewn, give a nice press with the iron.

Step 10

Pin front and back together at the shoulder seam.

Step 11

Pin the side seams wrong sides together, and stitch.

Step 12

Pin and sew the top part of the sleeve together.

Step 13

Pin and sew the bottom portion of the sleeve at the side seam.

Step 14

Stitch a gathering stitch at the bottom of the top sleeve.

Step 15

Now pin the top and bottom sleeve together.

Note: I used a French seam here to keep it clean on the inside, but this is optional.

Step 16

Pin sleeve in armscye with right sides together matching notches.

Note: I didn’t use a French seam here. As an alternative option for a clean seam, use a zigzag stitch, serger, or bias binding.

Step 17

Hem bottom of the sleeve by folding ¼’’ then ⅜’’ – ½’’, pin and sew. Make sure you have enough room for the elastic to be threaded through.

Step 18

From the front of your shirt, measure up from the V point 2’’ and place a pin. Then measure 2 ½’’ above that and place a pin. These will be the spots for your small loops. Note: you can add more and or change the location of the loop depending on what feels good for you.

Step 19

Place your loops right by the pin you just marked.

Step 20

Pin your bias binding starting from one side and ending at the other. Then stitch at ⅜’’.

Step 21

Press, trim, and fold bias tape under. Topstitch at a ½’’ away from the edge of the neckline.

Ruffle Option:

Step 1

Cut out spiral ruffles.

Step 2

Make bias tape roughly 45’’ for a size 4. The length will vary depending on the size. You should cut some extra just in case. 

Step 3

Follow the steps from view A 1-2, then continue from steps 6-12. Note: The sleeve will be longer for sleeve B than sleeve A. 

Step 4

Fold your sleeve cuff ruffle in half, pin, and sew using a french seam.

Step 5

Sew a baby hem on the bottom of the cuff.

Step 6

On the top of the cuff sew a basting stitch, then gather to the size of the bottom of the sleeve.

Step 7

With right sides together, matching side seams pin, and sew the cuff to the sleeve.

Step 8

Once the cuff is sewn, clip threads and serge, zig-zag, or pink the edges. 

Step 9

Attach sleeve at armscye matching notches and the seam.

Step 10

Attach both ruffle pieces at the center back seam (the wider end) and then hem the outer edge of the ruffle.

Step 11

Once the ruffle is hemmed, sew a gathering stitch along the inner edge.

Step 12

Gather ruffle into the neckline of your shirt and staystitch into place.

Step 13

Pin bias tape around the neckline and sew at ⅜’’

Step 14

Pin center front bias tape together and sew at ⅜’’ away from the original seam. Sew to the notch that is for view B.

Step 15

Fold the bias tape under and hand stitch, then blend it in and create an edge binding for the rest of the shirt.

Step 16

Once the binding is pinned, edge stitch to secure it, stopping right above the V for the buttons.

Step 17

Sew the hem by folding it under twice and topstitching. Clip remaining threads. 

Step 18

Lastly, sew buttons on your blouse.