When it comes to sewing outerwear, boiled wool is a much-loved fabric option. It’s soft, warm, and its unique texture brings a lovely detail to even the most simple garments. The Cardoon Coat allows you to show off two colorways, with paneled seams that are perfect for color blocking. With a high collar and hidden pockets, this coat can be made with a variety of coating materials.
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
First, attach the front and back of the upper portion of your coat at the side seams, fabric faces together. Repeat with your lining layer.
Press open your seams and topstitch the seam allowance down. Continue attaching the front and back at the shoulders and again, stitch your seams down. Repeat with your lining.
Create each of your sleeves for your self and lining layer, like you see below. Press open the seams and then attach them to your armscyes, aligning the seam with the side seam of your coat.
Create your cuffs similarly to how you created your sleeves and attach one edge to the bottom of each main sleeve, like you see below.
Create the bottom portion of your coat, attaching the front pieces to the back along the slighting curved edges. Again, press open the seams and top-stitch.
This portion of sewing creates the bottom section of your jacket when folded in half, like below:
Following the guides on your pattern, attach one short edge to the front of your upper coat, fabric faces together.
Repeat with the bottom section of your coat, making sure the pocket is the same distance from your bottom side seams as the top.
Fold your pockets in half, bringing the top and bottom of your coat together. Align the side seams and stitch the seam closed on either sides of your pockets. Attach the top lining to the opposite edge of your lower coat.
Fold the lower coat in half, bringing the faces of your main layer and lining layer together. Align all your seams and your collar before stitching them together around the perimeter. Pull the coat right side out through one of the sleeves.
Top-stitch along the center front and collar of your coat before lastly, slip stitching the raw edge of your sleeve cuffs to the inside lining of the sleeves. If desired, add a few sew on snaps!
Will you be giving the Cardoon Coat a try? Let me know which fabric combinations you’re considering in the comments below!