When it comes to sewing outerwear, boiled wool is a much-loved fabric option. It’s soft, warm, and its unique texture brings a lovely detail to even the most simple garments. The Cardoon Coat allows you to show off two colorways, with paneled seams that are perfect for color blocking. With a high collar and hidden pockets, this coat can be made with a variety of coating materials.
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 1.5 yards Antique White Solid Boiled Wool
- 1.5 yards Shell and Ivory Marbled Boiled Wool
- 1.5 yards Diamond Quilted Denim Coating with Filler
- Optional: 2 Clear Nylon Snaps – 50L/32mm
- MDF219 – The Cardoon Coat Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
Alternative Recommended Fabrics:
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
Step 1
First, attach the front and back of the upper portion of your coat at the side seams, fabric faces together. Repeat with your lining layer.
Step 2
Press open your seams and topstitch the seam allowance down. Continue attaching the front and back at the shoulders and again, stitch your seams down. Repeat with your lining.
Step 3
Create each of your sleeves for your self and lining layer, like you see below. Press open the seams and then attach them to your armscyes, aligning the seam with the side seam of your coat.
Step 4
Create your cuffs similarly to how you created your sleeves and attach one edge to the bottom of each main sleeve, like you see below.
Step 5
Create the bottom portion of your coat, attaching the front pieces to the back along the slighting curved edges. Again, press open the seams and top-stitch.
Step 6
This portion of sewing creates the bottom section of your jacket when folded in half, like below:
Step 7
Following the guides on your pattern, attach one short edge to the front of your upper coat, fabric faces together.
Step 8
Repeat with the bottom section of your coat, making sure the pocket is the same distance from your bottom side seams as the top.
Step 9
Fold your pockets in half, bringing the top and bottom of your coat together. Align the side seams and stitch the seam closed on either sides of your pockets. Attach the top lining to the opposite edge of your lower coat.
Step 10
Fold the lower coat in half, bringing the faces of your main layer and lining layer together. Align all your seams and your collar before stitching them together around the perimeter. Pull the coat right side out through one of the sleeves.
Step 11
Top-stitch along the center front and collar of your coat before lastly, slip stitching the raw edge of your sleeve cuffs to the inside lining of the sleeves. If desired, add a few sew on snaps!
Will you be giving the Cardoon Coat a try? Let me know which fabric combinations you’re considering in the comments below!
Thank you for this cute pattern! Is there a link somewhere to print the directions? I noticed they aren’t with the pattern PDF. Or should I just refer to the website for the directions? Thanks!
Unfortunately at the moment, the instructions are only available on the blog post!
Hi Courtney, there might be an error in the lower back pattern piece. It’s printed to cut two on the folds, is this the case or just the one.
Thank you.
Hi, Delphina! You’re correct, the lower back should be cut one on the folds. 🙂
Is this coat meant to be an oversized coat? I’m having some difficulty identifying the right size for me. Do you mind sharing the size of the coat in the picture for this project please?
Hi Jenn! Yes, it is a bit oversize – the sample shown is a size 4. 🙂
Thank you!. My second question is in regards to the lower back piece. There are two sides that marks “place on fold of fabric”. Is that intentional? I’m not sure how that works if both ends are placed on a fold. If that’s an error which side should be on the fold? The bottom of the pattern or the right side of the pattern?
Yes, the back should be on two folds – the bottom and center back seam as marked. 🙂
Hi! Absolutely love this! I’m relatively new to this so if this is a really stupid question I’m so sorry! Was just wondering if the quilting material is necessary, I’m not able to get anything shipped at the moment due to a COVID outbreak at the sorting offices but my aunt has enough material for me to make it without. Of course I’ll hold off if it is necessary but just wanted to check as the coat is stunning and want to try right away! Thank you!
Hi, Keira! It’s not totally necessary – you could choose to use a basic lining fabric instead, but the coat may lay a bit differently. You could also interface or interline your coat for some extra stability!
Merci beaucoup pour ce modèle mais attention le métrage est trop juste pour une taille 24/26
Hi if I take the PDF file to the printer would they be able to print it off as a whole pattern
Hello, our patterns at Mood are only provided in A4 and Letter sizes.
Hi,
Is it ok to use a french seam instead of top stitching the seams down?
Hi there! You certainly could, but the seams may get a bit bulky if using a thicker coating fabric.
Hi there! I am trying to place the pattern pieces on fabric B, but there doesn’t appear to be nearly enough material to accommodate all 3 pattern pieces. I’m feeling like I need to buy another 1.5 yards. Is there a trick to this?
Hello there!
Thanks for visiting the Mood Sewciety Blog! We’re proud to have released over 350 free sewing patterns, and we hope you’re enjoying them.
Behind the scenes we’re a dedicated team of three, and we want to be able to offer top notch support. We have exciting plans for our patterns on the horizon, and as we continue to grow, we’ve decided to focus our sewist support on patterns from the last 2 years. If this pattern hasn’t been recently reduxed or updated, we won’t be able to respond to technical questions on these older posts.
If you come across any pattern errors, rest assured our team is on it – just let us know!
Don’t miss out on our Mood Sewciety Facebook Group – a fantastic space for fellow sewists to connect, share wins, and tackle challenges together.
Thank you for your understanding and happy sewing!
Best regards,
The Mood Sewciety Blog Team
I just made the coat!!! That back pannel was a bit of a puzzle, but with my husband we figured it out: at the fold and mirrowing.
Wish I could post a picture , made it brown and white. Only problem now is that I can’t really press it down. Especially all around. It is bulging. Did you do a coverstitch all around to make it flat? Super proud of myself. Thanks for all your free patterns. Made a couple so far.
I am struggling to figure out how to get the back pieces to all fit on just 1.5 yds of material! Would you be open to sending me pictures? Eek!!
Hello there!
Thanks for visiting the Mood Sewciety Blog! We’re proud to have released over 350 free sewing patterns, and we hope you’re enjoying them.
Behind the scenes we’re a dedicated team of three, and we want to be able to offer top notch support. We have exciting plans for our patterns on the horizon, and as we continue to grow, we’ve decided to focus our sewist support on patterns from the last 2 years. If this pattern hasn’t been recently reduxed or updated, we won’t be able to respond to technical questions on these older posts.
If you come across any pattern errors, rest assured our team is on it – just let us know!
Don’t miss out on our Mood Sewciety Facebook Group – a fantastic space for fellow sewists to connect, share wins, and tackle challenges together.
Thank you for your understanding and happy sewing!
Best regards,
The Mood Sewciety Blog Team
Is it possible for this to be made and worn by a guy? If so what size should I consider or how do I determine what size to get to fit a guy?
Hi Ruben – yes, it certainly could! I’d recommend going by your chest size on the size chart.
Hi,
I made this coat from old blankets.
It was a challenge to make it, next time I will do the lining longer at the back en sleeves, and the collar in the neck a bit higher. Also the pockets on the coat, but it’s a good basic to start from, thank you very much!
Hi! Are those body or garment measurements? I’m confused begginer
Hi Rut! The measurements are body measurements. 😀
Hello! Could this be made from cotton flannel?
Hi Mandii! Yes, you can make this from a heavyweight cotton flannel. 😀
I’m having trouble with this pattern..when it comes to attaching the lower back to the lower front parts..it’s not making too much sense. The lower front parts a longer that the back.
Hello there!
Thanks for visiting the Mood Sewciety Blog! We’re proud to have released over 350 free sewing patterns, and we hope you’re enjoying them.
Behind the scenes we’re a dedicated team of three, and we want to be able to offer top notch support. We have exciting plans for our patterns on the horizon, and as we continue to grow, we’ve decided to focus our sewist support on patterns from the last 2 years. If this pattern hasn’t been recently reduxed or updated, we won’t be able to respond to technical questions on these older posts.
If you come across any pattern errors, rest assured our team is on it – just let us know!
Don’t miss out on our Mood Sewciety Facebook Group – a fantastic space for fellow sewists to connect, share wins, and tackle challenges together.
Thank you for your understanding and happy sewing!
Best regards,
The Mood Sewciety Blog Team
Hi I am wondering how one would close the coat? Do I add buttons or a belt? Thank you so much for the pattern- I really would like to try it as my first ever coat!
Hi Isabel! This is meant to be an open coat, but you could totally add a belt or buttons! You might want to make some adjustments to the pattern though. For buttons, I’d add a button allowance. Or if you’re adding a belt, it might be nice to size up or add some width to the coat so it can overlap nicely. 🙂
I’m really struggling past where the pictures end – I’m not sure where the sleeve come in or how to attach the upper lining. Is there a sew-along somewhere online, or somewhere I can find those last few steps? I feel like they’re missing
Hello there!
Thanks for visiting the Mood Sewciety Blog! We’re proud to have released over 350 free sewing patterns, and we hope you’re enjoying them.
Behind the scenes we’re a dedicated team of three, and we want to be able to offer top notch support. We have exciting plans for our patterns on the horizon, and as we continue to grow, we’ve decided to focus our sewist support on patterns from the last 2 years. If this pattern hasn’t been recently reduxed or updated, we won’t be able to respond to technical questions on these older posts.
If you come across any pattern errors, rest assured our team is on it – just let us know!
Don’t miss out on our Mood Sewciety Facebook Group – a fantastic space for fellow sewists to connect, share wins, and tackle challenges together.
Thank you for your understanding and happy sewing!
Best regards,
The Mood Sewciety Blog Team
Don’t have a plan yet but thinking of fleece
I’ve been looking for a great coat and this is it.
Would it be possible to add a hood to this? It feels like you could just extend or modify the neckline to add one.
Hi Katariina! Yes you could, it would take some pattern hacking, but it’s possible! I suggest downloading some patterns that have hoods, and use those as a jumping off point. The Cory Jacket and Boxwood Hoodie are good places to start.
Hi! I am working on my layout and notice that the “Lower Front” piece has it noted to cut on the fold, but then the grainline is opposite to the fold. Does that mean I should be folding the fabric with selvages together on the left and right as opposed to at the top? Thank you!
Hello there!
Thanks for visiting the Mood Sewciety Blog! We’re proud to have released over 350 free sewing patterns, and we hope you’re enjoying them.
Behind the scenes we’re a dedicated team of three, and we want to be able to offer top notch support. We have exciting plans for our patterns on the horizon, and as we continue to grow, we’ve decided to focus our sewist support on patterns from the last 2 years. If this pattern hasn’t been recently reduxed or updated, we won’t be able to respond to technical questions on these older posts.
If you come across any pattern errors, rest assured our team is on it – just let us know!
Don’t miss out on our Mood Sewciety Facebook Group – a fantastic space for fellow sewists to connect, share wins, and tackle challenges together.
Thank you for your understanding and happy sewing!
Hello,
the link to the pattern does not seem to wrok…
Hello, please email info@moodfabrics.com for any issues with pattern downloads.