Purchase Materials Used Below:

• 1 yard Gold and Pale Blue Mottled Luxury Brocade
• 1 yard White Cotton Buckram Stiffener
• 1 yard Stratton White Solid Organic Cotton Twill
• 3 pkg Dritz Nickel Grommets Size 3/8″ – 8ct
• 1 pair Foam Shoulder Pads Covered with White Polyester – 6″ x 3.5″ x .5″
• 5 yards White Rigilene – 12mm/0.5″
• MDF290 – The Cerise Corset Sewing Pattern (free download below!)

Alternative Recommended Fabrics:

• Brocade
• Jacquard
• Mikado
• Sateen
• Denim

If you are between sizes or concerned with grading, you should consider adding to Center Back by cutting a second set of those panels or adding extra seam allowance to your side seams. This is an advanced pattern and we recommend that you make a fit sample in muslin first.

All seam allowances are 3/8″ unless otherwise indicated (Side seams are 5/8″)

Panels are numbers to help coordinate with the assembly process.

Note: If you would like to raise the neckline when trying on your fit sample, you can add height to the top edge by extending your pattern another 1/4″-1/2″ for modesty.

Corset Sewing Instructions:

Cut 1 set of all patterns on straight grain from your self-fabric, 1 set from the lining, and 1 set from your interfacing or stiffener.

Traditionally speaking, and what helps keep all of your layers aligned and reduces bulkiness or uneven layering of your panels – consider a ‘frame stitch’ by joining your SELF pieces individually to each of their corresponding interfacing pieces. You can do this layering technique with your lining and your interfacing pieces instead, but consider the impact that may have against your self-fabric when viewing the garment when finished.

Then assemble all of your panels aligning each by the notches. This would be a good place to consider trying on for any fit adjustments so you know what changes are necessary for your self-fabric.

Press your seam allowances open or press them toward the back and topstitch them to use as bone channels. Considering how small the sean allowances are you may want to consider using bias tape as bone channels and lay them on top of each seam. This also reinforces them.

When pressing your seam allowances, use a tailor’s ham. This helps with areas that are very curvy – along the bust seam lines and hip areas.

For my corset, I used rigilene boning and topstitched either side along with the tape at each of my seams. This also reinforces the shape or the overall piece by running along each seamline. Worth considering when doing strapless or corset-style garments to enhance the curves of the piece when it’s worn.

With both my lining and self/interfacing sets sewn, I attach them to one another along the center back, up along the top edge, and down along the other center back area – leaving the hem edge open to hand tack closed. Note: I used a set of self-fabric pieces for my last panels on the inside of the garment so my lining did not become visible when I lace up the corset.

I did an understitch along the top edge of my neckline which helped to keep that edge very clean, you would do this before closing up your center back seams.

After closing center back on the machine, clip your corners to within 1/8″ of your sewing to reduce bulk before flipping the piece right side out. Use a point turner to gently push out those corners.

Turn up and press your hem allowance 3/8″ and slip stitch by hand or topstitch by machine. You can also consider using a contrasting double-fold bias tape as a pop or color along the hem edge. I used twenty 3/8″ grommets, ten down either center back side, and made a ribbon of self-fabric for the lace-up detail!