Based on a look from Helen Castillo’s Fall 2022 Collection in collaboration with Mood Fabrics, the Cerise Corset sewing pattern is gorgeously flattering and can be made in a variety of fabrics. Try yours in a stunning brocade as easily as a casual sateen, or pair it with our Cerise Corset Sewing Kit to make things easy!
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 1 yard Gold and Pale Blue Mottled Luxury Brocade
- 1 yard White Cotton Buckram Stiffener
- 1 yard Stratton White Solid Organic Cotton Twill
- 3 pkg Dritz Nickel Grommets Size 3/8″ – 8ct
- 1 pair Foam Shoulder Pads Covered with White Polyester – 6″ x 3.5″ x .5″
- 5 yards White Rigilene – 12mm/0.5″
- MDF290 – The Cerise Corset Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
If you are between sizes or concerned with grading, you should consider adding to Center Back by cutting a second set of those panels or adding extra seam allowance to your side seams. This is an advanced pattern and we recommend that you make a fit sample in muslin first.
All seam allowances are 3/8″ unless otherwise indicated (Side seams are 5/8″)
Panels are numbers to help coordinate with the assembly process.
Note: If you would like to raise the neckline when trying on your fit sample, you can add height to the top edge by extending your pattern another 1/4″-1/2″ for modesty.
Corset Sewing Instructions:
Cut 1 set of all patterns on straight grain from your self-fabric, 1 set from the lining, and 1 set from your interfacing or stiffener.
Traditionally speaking, and what helps keep all of your layers aligned and reduces bulkiness or uneven layering of your panels – consider a ‘frame stitch’ by joining your SELF pieces individually to each of their corresponding interfacing pieces. You can do this layering technique with your lining and your interfacing pieces instead, but consider the impact that may have against your self-fabric when viewing the garment when finished.
Then assemble all of your panels aligning each by the notches. This would be a good place to consider trying on for any fit adjustments so you know what changes are necessary for your self-fabric.
Press your seam allowances open or press them toward the back and topstitch them to use as bone channels. Considering how small the sean allowances are you may want to consider using bias tape as bone channels and lay them on top of each seam. This also reinforces them.
When pressing your seam allowances, use a tailor’s ham. This helps with areas that are very curvy – along the bust seam lines and hip areas.
For my corset, I used rigilene boning and topstitched either side along with the tape at each of my seams. This also reinforces the shape or the overall piece by running along each seamline. Worth considering when doing strapless or corset-style garments to enhance the curves of the piece when it’s worn.
With both my lining and self/interfacing sets sewn, I attach them to one another along the center back, up along the top edge, and down along the other center back area – leaving the hem edge open to hand tack closed. Note: I used a set of self-fabric pieces for my last panels on the inside of the garment so my lining did not become visible when I lace up the corset.
I did an understitch along the top edge of my neckline which helped to keep that edge very clean, you would do this before closing up your center back seams.
After closing center back on the machine, clip your corners to within 1/8″ of your sewing to reduce bulk before flipping the piece right side out. Use a point turner to gently push out those corners.
Turn up and press your hem allowance 3/8″ and slip stitch by hand or topstitch by machine. You can also consider using a contrasting double-fold bias tape as a pop or color along the hem edge. I used twenty 3/8″ grommets, ten down either center back side, and made a ribbon of self-fabric for the lace-up detail!
Are the shoulder pads in the materials list used as padded bra cups? When / how do those get added in? Love this pattern!
Those are put at the hips along the side seam to emphasize the flared shape! 🙂
Would you sew those in between the lining and interface?
Hi Brooke! We tacked them onto the lining, but you can also sew them in-between the lining and the fashion fabric if you prefer. Just keep in mind that it can possibly interfere with the boning. 😀
It looks lovely. Thanks for the detailed instructions. It will be an interesting build.
Thank you Thomas! Let us know how your make turns out using this pattern!
What a gorgeous pattern again! Would it be possible to use a zipper or hooks and bars for back closure? BAck lacing and I have never been the best of friends xD
Hi Anna! I think a zipper would work well for this pattern – but keep in mind that a zipper will not provide the “cinched” look of a back lacing. It’s all a matter of personal preference! 😀
This was the hardest construct I’ve ever attempted and def above my skill level!Now that I’ve had my hand on it once tho, I think I might actuallyhave a decfent attempt on it in the future…thanks for the detailed instuctions =)
Thanks for the pattern! I wish the tutorial/instructions were more elaborate for us beginners.
When cutting fabric, you need TWO pieces for each pattern except piece 1 (cut it on a fold). The order of the corset pieces (by their labeled number) from left to right is : 7 — 5 — 6 — 4 — 3 — 2 — 1 — 2 — 3 — 4 — 6 — 5 — 7.
I also found the construction for this pattern was simple unlike what other comments suggested!! It’s straight lines! I guess the complicated part is getting it to fit right but the best beginner tip is to cut larger size and adjust to your body proportions.
To me the most difficult part was figuring out how to piece together the pattern pieces! It took a while to figure it out on my own. Good luck if you are attempting this 😉
LOVEEEEEEED this patter, definitely very easy for intermediate sewers, i made a matching skirt and it exudes elegance, thanks for blessing us with this free pattern
Are the seam allowances included in this pattern or do we have to measure our own?
Hi Christina! The seam allowances are included in the pattern! They are 3/8″ unless otherwise indicated (Side seams are 5/8″) 🙂
I’m a little confused when actually sewing the pieces together. Is it better to sew all of the pieces (self fabric, lining and interfacing) first and than sew all the panels together?
I have everything I need, just need the pattern! I hope downloading is not going to include an order for the materials and notions!
Hi Ruth! So glad you have everything you need and are ready to go! You can rest assured – downloading the pattern will not include an order for anything from Mood Fabrics!
If like to start of by saying that this is a nice pattern but from a logical stand point please address these issues!!
All I can say is wow your pattern is missing so much instruction there is no way you could make this if you weren’t already experienced!
You’ve left out key point’s on the assembly! There is no step by step no pictures of said steps you 1st mention doing a frame stitch but don’t address how to do this or what this is!! Your measurements are beyond off unless you’re only aiming it at females with fake boobs; but real woman don’t have a tini tiny waist with huge boobs! Not to mention you don’t say or show where grommets are ment to go for lacing nor if that’s the case where is your modesty panel?… or is that the centre back panel that you say you sew in with the whole garment?…
Hi Alisha! As I said in my previous comment, I’m sorry you’re experiencing difficulty with this. The Cerise Corset states in the very beginning that it is an advanced pattern. It contains a lot of panels with curves, and that can leave a lot of room for error and fit issues. Corsets also require pretty exact sewing, especially when you’re adding so many panels! If you’re looking for a more beginner to intermediate friendly corset pattern, I recommend our Spearmint Corset. You can easily omit the straps for a look that more closely resembles the cerise corset.
A frame stitch is used to secure two layers together, so they don’t shift out of place. Place the self on top of its corresponding interfacing piece, and sew them together around the edges, creating a frame.
Your previous comment says that the waist is too big, but you don’t mention the bust measurement being off. In this comment you’re saying the bust to waist ratio is too extreme, and so we’re a little confused. If the waist is 10″ too big, then wouldn’t the bust have also been extremely off? Perhaps you’re trying on the corset upside down? Our sample here (the same garment pictured in this post) in the studio shows the hips flair out quite a bit, whereas the bust really doesn’t. So, the hips could easily be mistaken for the bust! Let us know, and we can try to troubleshoot this!
Your pattern & measurements are so far wrong that I cut out size 8 which by your calculations it should be 38-bust 28.82-waist 39-hips finished garment size! Well I’ve just made it & the waist is measuring at 39 Inchs!! That’s like 10 Inchs difference
Hi Alisha, I’m sorry you’re experiencing some trouble with this pattern. No one else has said the waist is 10″ too big, so in order to help troubleshoot, let’s address a few common errors:
Did you sew with the correct seam allowance? This corset has a lot of panels, and that leaves a lot of room for sizing issues if the proper SA isn’t used.
Did you cut the correct size? On those sections where all the size lines are tightly packed together, it can be easy to cut the wrong size.
Also, how are you measuring your garment? Did you measure the paper pattern pieces, or are you laying the pattern flat? This will help pinpoint whether it’s a sewing problem or pattern problem.