As the temperature falls, I’m always looking for that new statement coat of the season, and guess what? I found it! Check out Mood’s newest pattern; the Clark Coat is made here in a classic boiled wool. This gorgeous new coat has stylish sleeves, is perfect for this fall weather, and will instantly be your new favorite coat of the season!
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 4-5 yards Ketil Sunflower Solid Boiled Wool or Ketil Deauville Mauve Solid Boiled Wool
- 3-4 yards Mood Exclusive Rays of Gold Stretch Cotton Poplin or Mood Exclusive Day in Tunisia Yellow Cotton Poplin
- 1-2 yards Off-White Weft Fusible Interfacing
- Optional: 1/2 yard Black Fashion-Weight Faux Leather for Collar Stand
- MDF271 – The Clark Coat Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
1. Notch all pieces, then cut interfacing pieces.
2. Press interfacing to all the pieces that need it. Interface on the wrong side of your front pieces, right where the welt pocket will be placed.
3. Mark your welt on the outside of your fabric using chalk or a pen.
4. Fold your four welts in half, press, and baste shut. Mark a 1/4″ with chalk to use as a guide when sewing.
5. Place welts on the right side of your fabric on top of the lines you drew. Pin and sew. Make sure you end evenly at each end. Note: the welts could stretch a little depending on the fabric you are using, so be sure to use a lot of pins and a walking foot to evenly feed your fabric layers through your machine.
6. Place the pocket bag over the welts, pin, and sew the pocket bag.
7. Cut through the pocket bag, then the final fabric leaving ½” triangles at both ends.
8. Flip the pocket to the inside and press.
9. Make sure welts are even and sew over the triangle, but not through the main layer of outer fabric. Make sure you get up all the way to the edge of the welt opening.
10. With faces together, fold your pocket shield in half and sew along the sides. Trim, turn right side out, and press.
11. Keeping your pocket bag flat, place the raw edge of the pocket shield to the inside of your welt, sew a 1/4″ from the edge. Make sure the folded edge of your pocket flap will be facing your side seam once it’s folded over.
12. Press the flap over the welt and topstitch 1/4″ along folded edge.
13. Keeping the pocket bag lying flat, topstitch the sides down.
14. Fold the pocket bag right sides together, pin and stitch.
15. Sew the center back seam down to ½” from the vent, press the seams open, and topstitch the seams down. Since this fabric is thick, I used a 4.5 topstitch.
16. Fold the vent in ¼” and hem the sides. Then fold the left side in 2″ and slip-stitch to the wrong side of your coat fabric.
17. Pin front and back sections together at shoulder seams, sew, and then topstitch.
18. Pin side seams together, matching notches. Sew and then topstitch.
19. Get your sleeve pieces and mark the pleats/notches. Pin and stay stitch the pleats, then sew the inseam. Once completed, topstitch the seam before setting it in the armscye.
20. Set in the sleeve matching notches.
21. Get your sleeve cuffs and sew the side seams of all four pieces.
22. Get your two interfaced cuffs and attach them to your sleeve matching the seams, pin, and sew.
22. Attach the facing at the bottom of the sleeve, pin, and sew.
23. Now fold the facing into the cuff and press. Finish the facing by folding ½” under and slip stitching it shut.
24. Sew the lining pieces together starting with the facing and the side front. Pin and sew.
25. Pin and sew the side seams together. Now attach the shoulder seams together.
26. Sew sleeves to the lining matching at notches.
27. Pin under collar to collar stand, stitch at 3/8″.
28. With right sides together, stitch collar sections together around the edge, leaving the bottom open. Trim corners, turn right side out, and press along the outside. Note: Do not press directly on faux leather.
29. Pin collar to the right side of the jacket with the faux leather undercollar facing down. Match notches and pin.
30. With right sides together, pin lining around the entire jacket, leaving the bottom open. Make sure all the seams line up correctly. Sew, trim seam allowance around the corners, press, and topstitch using a 4.5 stitch length.
31. Hem the kick pleat of the lining by folding the sides in twice and topstitching.
32. Now attach the top of the kick pleat to the inside of the main fabric by hand stitching it down.
33. Fold the hem up 1″ and slip stitch.
34. Hem the lining up 2in and hand sew placing it slightly over the hem you just did. Make sure there is enough give in the length of the lining it doesn’t pull on the hem. (An alternative option is to leave the lining open along the hem and simply tack it at the side seams.)