I'm still floating from the perfect movie that is Black Panther, and I want to make every outfit I saw on the screen. When Vanity Fair released their spread for Avengers last month, I started planning out Ramonda's gown almost immediately. I absolutely love the combination of the base fabric, which looks to be a sort of spacer mesh, mixed with such a luxurious brocade. The result is a skirt full of body and a powerful silhouette. Plus, true to form, I added pockets. Because, pockets.
Fabrics & materials used:
- 2 yards Metallic Black and Navy Diamond Quilted Brocade
- 4 yards Black Novelty Spacer Mesh
- 1 yard Black Stretch Ponte Knit
- 24" Black Invisible Zipper
- MDF036 - The Corvus Cosplay Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated.
So let's break down this dress. It's made up of a bodice, which is lined with a comfortable ponte; an underskirt, which is two half circles with pockets hidden in the seams, and a pleated brocade overskirt.
If you tried out the skirt in The Iris pattern, the underskirt for The Corvus is nearly the same (but with an even, floor-length hem). As such, it goes together the same way: connect the front and back panels of the underskirt with the pocket and then fold the pocket in half to sew along its bottom edge and down the remainder of the side skirt seam. Unlike with the Iris, you can skip French seams for this one. Set the underskirt aside for now.
Next, we'll tackle the bodice. As you can see above, it has princess seams as well as side seams. Sew your side front panels to either side of the center front panel, matching up the lower edges.
Do the same with your back bodice panels, like below, and then connect your front and back at the shoulders and side seams. Your ponte lining will go together the same way.
Attach the lining to the main bodice at the neckline, placing the fabric faces together. Since the neckline is somewhat v-shaped, you'll want to notch your seam allowance like you can see below. This will help it lay flatter while being worn, particularly if you're using a bulky mesh.
Flip your bodice right side out, fold the raw edges of your armholes 1/2" inward, and slip-stitch.
Next, take your brocade and give 3 of the 4 edges a basic rolled hem, leaving the top edge unfinished. Follow the pleat guide on your pattern to pin the pleats into place. The two most toward the center back will face towards the back of the garment, while the other 6 face forward.
Stay-stitch your pleats into place and then attach the overskirt to the bottom of the mesh of your bodice, like above. The front edges should align with the front princess seams of your bodice, leaving the center panel open. Next, attach your underskirt to the same spot, just beneath the brocade. Be sure to fold your pockets toward the front of your garment.
Cut a 6"-8" slit at the center back of your skirts (both layers), and insert your invisible zipper. Don't include your lining when sewing the zipper into place. Once the zipper is inserted, fold the raw edges of the ponte inward and slip-stitch along the zipper and waistline. For added ease, you could top-stitch along the zipper to reduce bulk.
With that, your gown is complete! Spacer mesh doesn't fray, so I left the hem of the underskirt raw. I absolutely love the volume it has, and I'm absolutely in awe of how lovely it looks. A huge thank you to our Style Blogger, Shavonne Cruz for modeling this one! You can read her amazing posts here.
Do you know anyone who would be the perfect Ramonda cosplayer? Either way, this gown would look stunning on anyone. I can't wait to make a version for myself! What fabrics might you try for your version?