The Cory Jacket - Free All-Gender Sewing Pattern

Posted on April 15, 2022 by Greg Dugdale

We've all been there—you've planned a big day out and all of a sudden, you're stuck without a raincoat in a downpour! Never fear, with Mood’s newest pattern The Cory Jacket, you won't have to worry about the showers raining on your parade! Keep yourself safe, dry, and stylish with Mood's lightweight, water-repellent fabric.

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Note: All seams will be finished using a French seam, besides the neckline and facing.
Tip: When using solid fabrics with a French seam, place an X with pins indicating the right side of your fabric.

1. Print, tape, and cut out pattern.
2. Cut all the pieces out of the fabric. If you desire the color blocked look, remember to cut out each sleeve from a different fabric.
3. Mark all notches.
4. Pin front and back together at side seams and stitch using a French seam.

5. Pin your top and bottom sleeve together at the side seam and stitch.

6. With wrong sides together, pin and stitch sleeves to jacket, matching side seams.

7. With the wrong sides together, pin the upper sleeve portion and stitch.

8. With the wrong sides together, pin the hood along the curved "head" seam. Stitch, trim, then press.

9. Fold back the front of the hood ½",  then 1 ¼", and pin. At the bottom edges, go 1" up from your seam allowance and add your grommet in, only going through one side of the fabric. Once your grommets are in, go ahead and stitch the front of the hood.

10. Fold center front back ½". Pin zipper to edges of center front, one side at a time. Once pinned, top stitch the zipper. After one side is done, sew the other side the same way. Note: Since this is a separating zipper, you do not need to stitch the bottom closed.

11. Pin facings together at shoulder seam. Sew ½’’ as a regular seam. Once sewn, press seams open and do a rolled hem on the inside.

12. With right sides together, pin hood to jacket, easing where needed. Once pinned, pin the facing over the hood and stitch along the top at ⅜’’. Once sewn, trim off excess zipper tape. Note: be careful of the ends and stitch carefully to avoid hitting the top of the zipper.

13. At the bottom of each facing, following the seam allowance from the zipper, sew the excess fabric with the machine. Try to get as close to the zipper as possible.

14. Turn facing to inside, fold under and pin. Slip stitch all the way down to the bottom of the zipper.

15. Pin and fold up the hem ½’’, then 1 ½’’. Machine stitch shut.

16. Fold the sleeve up ½’’, then another 1 ½’’. Edge stitch, leaving a small opening for the elastic.

17. Sew the drawstring pieces together at center back. Next, fold the drawstring in half lengthwise and pin. Leaving an opening in the back, stitch at ⅜’’. Trim and flip your drawstring right side out and press. Slip stitch the ends shut, then thread it through the hood via the two grommets.

18. With the right sides together, sew your pocket flap at the sides.

19. Fold the top edge of your pocket at ½’’, then 1 ¼’’, and stitch down.

20. Pin the pocket to the front of the jacket where the pocket lines are indicated on your pattern piece. Edge stitch around the bottom pocket. For the pocket flap, place that upside down and stitch at  ¼’’. Once stitched, flip down and press, then stitch again at ¼’’. Note: If desired, you can topstitch the pocket for a sportier look.

The Cory Jacket - Free All-Gender Sewing Pattern - Mood Sewciety
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