I’m combating the winter blues this holiday season with the most luxe faux fur I’ve ever felt and some gorgeously colorful jacquard. The Dahlia Coat blends the stunning silhouette of a fifties-style swing coat with the bright tones of the sixties, perfect for fighting off the cold and soaking up the little sun their is! Swing into your next dinner party with your own Dahlia Coat!
Fabrics & materials used:
- 4 yards Sun-Dried Tomato, Navy and Metallic Gold Floral Jacquard
- 4 yards Navy Faux Fur with Suede Back
- 6 Gold Metal 4-Hole Buttons – 44L
- Optional: 1/2 yard Black Water Jet Loom Fusible Interfacing
- MDF013 – The Dahlia Coat Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
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Pattern includes a 1/2″ seam allowance unless otherwise stated.
The first step here is to choose your fabrics, of course! Definitely my favorite part. I love this jacquard/faux fur combo more than I can say, but the extra coziness of the fur lining does mean sacrificing some of the swing-y drape of the coat. As much as I adore this creation, part of me is excited to try this pattern with one of Mood’s wool/cashmere coatings next.
When cutting out your pieces for this garment, definitely watch the grain line of your fabrics, especially if using a faux fur. Be sure to place the pattern correctly along the nap.
To start assembling your garment, I recommend attaching your pockets first. My jacket was all about being cozy this time around, so I went with faux fur pockets, but you can easily use a regular lining for these or even more of your outer fabric.
Your pockets will connect to the front and back panels of our jacket, with the flat side toward the top of the garment, like you see above. Place the face (what will be the inside) of your pocket against the right side of your main fabric.
Bring your front and back panels together, matching up the sides and shoulders. Sew across the top of your pocket, and then up the side of your coat, and then across the bottom of your pocket and down the remainder of the side (like you see above. You can also stitch about and inch up the side at the bottom of your pocket for extra security so nothing falls out, but be sure to leave the majority of your pocket open.
Sew the shoulders and attach your sleeves, and your jacket should be starting to take shape!
The last thing your outer jacket layer needs is the collar. If you’re using a more fluid fabric you can choose to interface this piece, but it wasn’t completely necessary for this jacquard. Sew your two collar pieces with the faces together, trim the seam allowance and flip it right-side out. Press it, and then stay-stitch it to the neckline of your jacket, like below.
Next is your lining, which goes together nearly the same way, but you can skip pockets and a collar. If you’re using a faux fur like me, I strongly recommend stitching your seam allowance down to avoid bulk. (Do not iron your fur, it will melt and probably destroy your iron.)
Next, you’ll need to attach your lining to the self. First, sew each of the center front edges of your outer layer to the front edges of your lining, leaving about 5″ open in the middle of one of the seams so you can turn the jacket right-side out later.
Match up the center backs of both layers and begin pinning around the neckline and hem toward the front. Tuck in your collar and sleeves so they don’t get caught in your stitching.
Toward the front of your coat, there will be excess fabric to your outer layer – this is the front facing of your jacket. Fold it inward so it becomes part of your lining, like you see above.
At the bottom of your coat, you’ll have another section of excess fabric. Match up all your corners so the excess is about an inch from the bottom. Once you sew your hem and turn the jacket right-side out, the extra will fold up into the lining and you’ll have a diagonal seam at the corner like you see below. You can press and slip-stitch this.
Once your hem and neckline are sewn and your jacket is flipped right-side out, all that’s left is attaching the lining and self at the sleeves. You can pull the sleeves out through the opening you left in the facing of the coat and match up the right-sides like you see below. Stitch around the hem of the sleeve, pull it back right-side out, and press.
Lastly, slip-stitch the 5″ opening closed, choose the perfect button, and sew them on with corresponding buttonholes! Personally, I really love the ones I used, but I might be biased.
I absolutely adore this shape. The hem is just slightly longer in the back for a subtle hi-low silhouette and the possibilities when it comes to choosing fabrics is nearly endless. I can picture mikados paired with another faux fur as easily as I can see a classic wool with a silky charmeuse. What fabrics are you going to try out? I’d love to hear your project plans in the comments!Also, enjoy this photoset of me spinning around in this coat, because it is all you’re going to want to do when you’re done sewing, let me tell you.