‘Tis the season to eat a lot of food and then relax with family and friends while you ignore the piles of dishes left in the sink. Whether you’re headed to a fancy cocktail party with your business colleagues, or passing the potatoes over to grandma, you’ve got to look sharp. Well, looking sharp has never been so easy with Mood’s new collection of free patterns! From chic jumpsuits like The Bergenia Jumpsuit, to stunning outerwear like The Caladium Trench, Mood has got you covered. Chill out after a long day of holiday shopping with The Daphne Jacket, a smoking jacket best made with a plush velvet and luxurious satin.
Fabrics & materials used:
- 2 yards Sienna Solid Polyester Satin
- 2 yards Forest Luxury Lyons Velvet
- 1 yard Black Single-Faced Woven Fusible Interfacing
- 4 Old Brass Metal Coat Buttons – 40L/25mm
- MDF011 – The Daphne Sewing Pattern (Free download below!)
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Pattern includes a 1/2″ seam allowance unless otherwise stated.
The sizing is based on chest measurement. Be sure to make a muslin and test the fit before cutting into your final fabric!
Cut out all of your pattern pieces. Then, you’ll fuse the interfacing to the pocket welt, cuffs, and satin lapel lining using an iron.
Once you’ve attached your interfacing, (don’t forget and do it after, like me. Whoops!) attach the center front and side front to each other, face to face. The seams on this jacket will be hidden within between the satin and the velvet, so a simple seam will do.
Then, attach the center back and side back, but not the flap.
Attach the back sides.
Next, you’ll attach the back piece to the two front pieces.
Sew the shoulders together, but make sure not to sew the lapel yet. Cut a small notch from the corner of the shoulder/collar to the end of your shoulder stitching like you see above.
Connect the collar at the center back, and then attach the collar to the back neckline.
Then, you’re going to sew sleeves. Match up the longer sleeves and then add the cuff along the bottom. You’ll want the shorter side of the cuff to connect to the end of the sleeve, right sides together.
Sew the inseam (matching up the short sides of your sleeve) and then sew the sleeves to the vest. That completes the lining!
Begin your outer layer by first sewing the dart on each of the front panels. The slit at the bottom, like you see below, will later become a pocket!
Before that though, you’ll add one welt pocket above the left dart. Fold your welt piece in half, lengthwise, wrong sides together, and place it on the face of your outer layer just below the line for the pocket. Pin the face of the pocket lining the face of the velvet, with the folded welt sandwiched in between like below. Sew a rectangle around the top of your pocket lining, catching the very top of the welt.
Cut a slit through the center of the rectangle, with four smaller ones reaching to the very corners, and push the pocket through that slit, so that the lining is now on the wrong side of the velvet. Iron and pin the welt into place before edge-stitching around the opening of the pocket, excluding the very top border.
Fold the pocket lining in half, stitch up the sides, and then finish the edge-stitching of the top border of your pocket opening (this time catching the top of the pocket lining as well, ultimately closing it.
The two bottom pockets will go together the same way, but without the welts. Instead, you can add flaps to the outside of the jacket once the pockets are completed.
To make your pocket flaps, pin two of the panels with the faces together and sew along three of the sides, leaving one of the longer ones open. Trim the edges and corners, turn it right side out and press.
Fold the raw edge inward twice like you see above and top-stitch one into place above each of your pockets.
To attach your lining to your jacket, place the right sides of your lining and self layer together, aligning your seams. Sew around the perimeter, making sure not to accidentally catch your sleeves in the seam. Leave a small 4″-5″ opening in an area that you could easily slip-stitch closed later, (I chose an area along the bottom of the jacket) and then pull your garment right side out through the opening. Press the jacket and double check the fit, making sure that the designated spots for buttons will work for you.
To finish the sleeves, you can pull them through the opening and sew the lining to the self at the cuffs with your machine, or leave it right side out and slip-stitch. Once the sleeves are complete, you can stitch the opening shut, add your buttons and buttonholes and you’re ready to lounge!
I am so happy with the way this jacket came out. The colors look great and the luxurious feel of the velvet and satin really bring this smoking jacket to the next level. I’d love to see some other jackets in a variety of velvet and satin combinations! Tell me about your creations in the comments!