When you want to look fabulous, but don’t want to sacrifice comfort, a jumpsuit is one of the best ways to go. With no finicky closures or constricting fabric, the Darmera Jumpsuit is the perfect project for one of Mood’s lush crushed velours. You could even take it up a notch for the holidays with a 4-ply silk crepe or even throw some stretch sequins into the mix. Maybe even a metallic knit tank underneath? Either way, you’ll be fashionable, comfortable, and you’ll pair well with much-deserved glass of champagne at your next holiday party.
Fabrics & materials used:
- 4 yards Woodbine Crushed Velour
- 1 yard Leather Brown Wrinkled Faux Patent Leather with a Black Fabric Backing
- 2 yards .125″ Black Elastic
- 1 yard Black Water Jet Loom Interlining and Fusible
- MDF103 – The Darmera Jumpsuit Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
To start, attach the two front panels of your bodice to the back at the shoulders and sides, fabric faces touching. If you have a serger, this would be a great project for it. If not, a regular machine and a stretch stitch works as well!
Be sure to clip the seam allowance at the corner where the sleeve and the side meet in order to avoid the fabric pulling when you turn the garment right side out.
Next, interface the entirety of your lapel binding. Fold it in half along the length, and pin and sew it along the full neckline and center front of the bodice. At the center front, overlap the two layers of lapel binding at the bottom 4″ and top-stitch into place, like you see below.
Place the bodice to the side for the time being and construct the pant portion of the jumpsuit. Attach the two front panels along the front rise and follow suit with the two back panels at the back rise. Matching up the rise seams, place the front and back of your pants together with the fabric faces touching. Sew them together at the inseam, followed by the two outer seams.
Again with the fabric faces together, attach the bodice to your pants at the waistline. Leave an extra inch of your pants above the seam allowance of the bodice, like you see in the image below (you’ll need it for the following step). Match up your side seams and evenly gather any excess fabric into the waistline.
Take the extra inch of fabric you left from your pants and fold the raw edge inward a half inch, like you see below. Pin and edge-stitch the fabric into place along the waist. At the center back, clip the seam and feed your elastic through what is now the waistband casing. Cut the elastic to one inch less than your waist measurement and secure the ends together. Slip-stitch the seam closed where you inserted your elastic.
Double roll the hem of your pants and repeat the prior step, cutting the elastic to comfortably fit around your calf.
Fold the ends of your sleeves in a half inch, followed by another full inch, and top-stitch.
The belt goes together much like a basic pillow; place the two panels together with the faces touching. Sew along three of the sides, leaving one of the shorter ends open to turn it right side out. Once it’s turn and pressed, edge-stitch around the perimeter, closing the last side in the process.
5 comments
There is no diagram or information on how to connect the printout for an accurate layout. This ‘designer’ continually does this with all her patterns. What’s the point of offering up half done work for people to use or evaluate? Clearly they just do it and don’t care once it’s done.
Hi Jane! This first page of all of our patterns includes a diagram for how the pattern should be taped together as well as a scale test so users can make sure that their printer is calibrated accurately. 🙂 All you have to do is matched up the corners of the pages to make each intersection into a + sign. Enjoy the free download and let me know if you have any other questions!
I’m excited to make this! Is the interfacing used one which has stretch? Thanks.
Hi Emma, I happened to use one without stretch – however, the opening at the lapel is how the garment is put on and taken off, so an interfacing with stretch would certainly work as well!
I’ve got some purple crushed velour that is perfect for this, I think I will extend the legs to make it full length. I am going to look so majestic! Or possibly like Willy Wonka in his pjs, we’ll see.