Paired here with our Brando Tee and Basquiat Trousers, the Dean Jacket is part three of our new menswear capsule collection! This jacket features a timeless silhouette that can be made in a variety of fabric types. Try a simple solid canvas or twill for a versatile look or get loud with something as vibrant as jacquard.
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 2-4 yards Bayonne Navy Organic Cotton Ripstop
- 2-4 yards Mood Exclusive Nilotic Wasteland Orange and Teal Stretch Cotton Sateen
- 1 yard Navy Tubular Cotton Rib Knit
- 8 Italian Shiny Navy Rimmed 4-Hole Button – 40L/25.5mm
- MDF250 – The Dean Jacket Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
Alternative Recommended Fabrics:
Face to face, attach each lower sleeve to its respective upper sleeve. Press the seam allowance either open or to one side, depending on your preference, and top-stitch.
Repeat with your lining.
Face to face again, attach your back yoke to the top edge of the back panel of your jacket. Press the seam allowance upwards and top-stitch.
Repeat with your lining.
Using regular seams again, attach your front and back panels at the shoulders and side seams. Press your seams open. I chose not to top-stitch these, but you certainly can for some extra stability.
Following the guide on your pattern, insert your welt pocket. If you’re not familiar with a welt pocket, there’s an easy tutorial available here!
Once your pockets are complete, set your sleeves into their respective armscyes.
Face to face, attach one edge of your collar along the neckline of the jacket.
Note: I doubled my rib knit so it was a bit thicker, but it’s not required.
Attach the other long edge of your collar along the neckline of your lining.
To avoid any slipping or pulling, I recommend folding your waistband rib knit in half along the length and stay-stitching along the top.
With the waistband sandwiched in between, attach it along the bottom edge of your jacket, as you see below.
At the corner of that seam, clip the seam allowance out from the seam to the edge of the stitching.
Now that the corner is clipped, the bottom extensions at the center front of your jacket can be rotated and sewn to each side edge of the waistband rib knit, like below.
There should be a 1/2″ seam allowance remaining below the bottom fold of the rib knit. This is to sew across the bottom edge of the center front extension with the jacket and lining face to face, which can be done now.
Create each of your sleeve cuffs and set them into the bottom edge of each sleeve, face to face. Turn your jacket right side out and slip-stitch the bottom edge of your sleeve lining along the inside of the cuff, tucking in the raw edges.
Create each of your button plackets by folding them in half along the length, face to face, and sewing along the top and bottom edge. Turn right side out and press.
Pin and sew each placket along the outer jacket layer at the center front of your garment. I recommend starting with the bottom edge and pinning/sewing upwards.
Fold the raw edges of your lining inward and pin along the placket seam. Slip-stitch or top-stitch into place.
Lastly, add your buttons and corresponding buttonholes evenly space along your placket!
Be sure to download the Brando Tee and Basquiat Trousers to complete the look!
25 comments
Can I use a non-stretch fabric for the details of the cuffs and waistband?
Hi, Mako! That would work at the waistband, but you may need to cut the cuffs a little bigger than the pattern calls for so you can get it over your hand comfortably without stretch.
cool it looks so good i love it mate!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Can I use a faux leather for this jacket? I have a black one in my stash and thinking about sewing it for my bf. Thanks much for the lovely patterns.
Yes, I think a faux leather would look awesome with this pattern! 🙂
Pattern doesn’t tell me how much yardage I need…should I just get 4 yards? I’m sure I’m overlooking it
Hi Keith! What size are you wanting to make?
do you think jeans would work too?
Hi Zachary, yes denim would look great!
would leather work?
Hi Sam, yes leather would look great!
Could you add a zip instead of buttons?
Hi Ella, yes, you can use a zipper instead! I think that would look great.
Looks great, but one question:
Wondering how to interpolate patterns to standard sized paper sheets, may I ask what paper size is used?
Looks like A4 ( 21 x 29.7 cm ) but the sides scale differently, perhaps it is one of the US Letter or Legal sizes. Definitely not Follscap because that would be taller . . .
Hi Rob, we’re sorry for the delay in responding to your question! We get dozens of comments and questions each day, and so many questions get buried and, unfortunately, unanswered. We are now focusing user support on patterns 2 years and newer. We hope this will prevent questions on our more current patterns from going unanswered. Although this is late, we wanted to respond in case anyone else has the same question: our patterns are formatted for US Letter and A4 paper.
Size 40 what size is for italy?
Hello there!
Thanks for visiting the Mood Sewciety Blog! We’re proud to have released over 350 free sewing patterns, and we hope you’re enjoying them.
Behind the scenes we’re a dedicated team of three, and we want to be able to offer top notch support. We have exciting plans for our patterns on the horizon, and as we continue to grow, we’ve decided to focus our sewist support on patterns from the last 2 years. If this pattern hasn’t been recently reduxed or updated, we won’t be able to respond to technical questions on these older posts.
If you come across any pattern errors, rest assured our team is on it – just let us know!
Don’t miss out on our Mood Sewciety Facebook Group – a fantastic space for fellow sewists to connect, share wins, and tackle challenges together.
Thank you for your understanding and happy sewing!
Best regards,
The Mood Sewciety Blog Team
How much yardage would I need, it’s not listed. Pattern layout on the fabric is also not listed, how am I supposed to know where to cut on the fabric?
Hi Jonas, we’re sorry for the late reply, but nevertheless, details can be found in the Shop This Look box at the top right hand corner of this post!
How many yards of fabric would I need to make a size 38?
Hi Cyrenne, 2.5 yards should be sufficient. 🙂
and how many yards would I need for size 34?
Hi Cyrenne, 2.5 yards 🙂
I am assuming we are easing in the sleeve caps and sewing them before the side seams are closed?
You can also ease and set in the sleeves after the side seams have been sewn.