Paired here with our Brando Tee and Basquiat Trousers, the Dean Jacket is part three of our new menswear capsule collection! This jacket features a timeless silhouette that can be made in a variety of fabric types. Try a simple solid canvas or twill for a versatile look or get loud with something as vibrant as jacquard.
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 2-4 yards Bayonne Navy Organic Cotton Ripstop
- 2-4 yards Mood Exclusive Nilotic Wasteland Orange and Teal Stretch Cotton Sateen
- 1 yard Navy Tubular Cotton Rib Knit
- 8 Italian Shiny Navy Rimmed 4-Hole Button – 40L/25.5mm
- MDF250 – The Dean Jacket Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
Face to face, attach each lower sleeve to its respective upper sleeve. Press the seam allowance either open or to one side, depending on your preference, and top-stitch.
Repeat with your lining.
Face to face again, attach your back yoke to the top edge of the back panel of your jacket. Press the seam allowance upwards and top-stitch.
Repeat with your lining.
Using regular seams again, attach your front and back panels at the shoulders and side seams. Press your seams open. I chose not to top-stitch these, but you certainly can for some extra stability.
Following the guide on your pattern, insert your welt pocket. If you’re not familiar with a welt pocket, there’s an easy tutorial available here!
Once your pockets are complete, set your sleeves into their respective armscyes.
Face to face, attach one edge of your collar along the neckline of the jacket.
Note: I doubled my rib knit so it was a bit thicker, but it’s not required.
Attach the other long edge of your collar along the neckline of your lining.
To avoid any slipping or pulling, I recommend folding your waistband rib knit in half along the length and stay-stitching along the top.
With the waistband sandwiched in between, attach it along the bottom edge of your jacket, as you see below.
At the corner of that seam, clip the seam allowance out from the seam to the edge of the stitching.
Now that the corner is clipped, the bottom extensions at the center front of your jacket can be rotated and sewn to each side edge of the waistband rib knit, like below.
There should be a 1/2″ seam allowance remaining below the bottom fold of the rib knit. This is to sew across the bottom edge of the center front extension with the jacket and lining face to face, which can be done now.
Create each of your sleeve cuffs and set them into the bottom edge of each sleeve, face to face. Turn your jacket right side out and slip-stitch the bottom edge of your sleeve lining along the inside of the cuff, tucking in the raw edges.
Create each of your button plackets by folding them in half along the length, face to face, and sewing along the top and bottom edge. Turn right side out and press.
Pin and sew each placket along the outer jacket layer at the center front of your garment. I recommend starting with the bottom edge and pinning/sewing upwards.
Fold the raw edges of your lining inward and pin along the placket seam. Slip-stitch or top-stitch into place.
Lastly, add your buttons and corresponding buttonholes evenly space along your placket!