Current trends in athleisure have evolved into styles we want to wear every day. With that said,  the Dorian Dress free sewing pattern from Mood Fabrics is right on time! Sporty, fun, and chic, are just a few ways to describe this perfect little number. Pair it with a soft and yummy fleece knit or a luxurious stretch velour to take your look from day to evening! How do you plan on wearing yours? Team sneakers or heels?

Purchase Materials Used Below:

• 3 – 5 yards of Heather Lake Bamboo and Cotton Stretch Knit Fleece 
• 5  spools of 239 Dark Gray 100m Gutermann Sew-all Thread 
• 5 – 6 yards of White Knitted Elastic Trimming 0.75″
• MDF292 – The Dorian Dress Free Sewing Pattern

Alternative Recommended Fabrics:

• Stretch Velour 
• Bamboo Knit
• Rib Knit

I recommend using both a serger and a standard sewing machine.

Here’s how to sew:

Step 1:

Pin the front and back facings together at the shoulder seams and use the serger to sew them together.  Set your facing aside. Next, pin your front and back bodice together and serge them together at the shoulder seams and side seams.

Step 2:

With right sides facing, pin your hood pieces together and serge them down the center seam.  Use the serger to finish the raw edges around the hood. Turn back the hood facing around the opening and topstitch it in place. Press along the hood opening.

Step 3:

Sandwich your hood in between the neck opening and neck facing. Pin through all layers. Serge around the entire neck opening attaching the hood to the neck facing and neck opening. Next, serge the raw edge of your neck facing. Turn back the facing, press, and topstitch in place.

Step 4:

With the right sides of the fabric together fold your sleeves in half and pin them along the sleeve seam. Serge the sleeve seams together to finish. Pin each sleeve to the armscye and use the serger to set your sleeves in.

Step 5:

Making the skirt is pretty straightforward. Pin the front to the back and serge along the side seams. Now let’s work on the pockets. Transfer the markings for your pocket onto your fabric with tailor’s chalk. With the right sides together, pin the pocket panels along the side. Make sure to match up the notches as you go. Next, use the serger to stitch the side pocket panels in place.

Step 6:

Now serge around the remaining raw edge of the pocket panel and across the top of the pocket. Topstitch along the pocket panel about 1/8″ away from the edge. Fold back the top of the pocket and stitch in place. Now align your pocket to the markings on your skirt. turn under the side pocket panel along the edge about 1/4″ and pin in place and stitch.

Step 7:

With right sides facing pin your pocket flaps together and use the standard sewing machine to stitch and sew along the sides and bottom. Trim the seam allowance and turn the flap right side out. Press and topstitch around the pocket flap edge. Serge the raw edge of the flap at the top.  Now turn under the top edge of the flap and pin it above the pocket where marked. Once your flap is stitched in place topstitch along the edge to finish. Hand tack the top of the pocket at the sides.

Step 8:

(Measure your wrist and cut 6 strips of elastic. 3 for each cuff)

Transfer the casing markings onto your cuff with tailor’s chalk.  Fold your cuff in half (right sides facing) along the lengthwise side seam and pin. Stitch your cuff using the serger. Now flip the cuff so your fabric is doubled with the right side facing out. Now stitch along the first marking line that’s closest to the bottom to create the first casing. Leave a small opening and use a safety pin to work the elastic through. Stitch the elastic together and sew the opening closed. Continue the same process with the last two rows of the casing for the cuff.

Pin your finished cuff to your sleeve opening and stitch it in place using the serger.

Step 9:

(Measure your waist and cut 5 strips of elastic)

Pin the waistband at the side seams and stitch using the serger. Do the same for the waistband facing. Transfer the markings for casing onto the front of the waistband as you did for the cuffs. With the wrong sides of the fabric together, pin the waistband to the waistband facing and stitch along the edge. Now begin stitching along the first marked line to create the casing. Remember to leave a small opening for the elastic. Thread your elastic through the casing using a safety pin. Stitch the ends of the elastic together and sew the opening closed. Continue until all the rows of casing are complete.

Step 10:

Before attaching the waistband to the skirt and bodice, pin the surplice opening on the top and stitch it in place. Now match up the sides, front and back of the top with the waistband and pin them in place. Stitch the waistband while stretching and aligning it with the edge of the bodice. Do the same for attaching the waistband to the skirt. Use the serger to finish the bottom edge of the skirt, turn it back 1″, press and topstitch the hem in place. Your dress is complete!