As temperatures finally start to warm up here in New York, I’m dreaming of summer weddings at sculpture gardens upstate. The Edith Dress is Mood’s latest adaptive pattern, which combines daring details with a regal cape for the ultimate special occasion dress. With both elasticized and detachable features, it is an accessible all-rounder and great for anyone with additional mobility concerns. (Oh, and did we mention it has pockets?) We’ve whipped it up in one of our new pastel ombre tulles for an ethereal, princess-y vibe. However, you can create it out of a silk crepe de chine for a sleek look, or show off a silk charmeuse print. Don’t forget knits either—try stabilizing the waist and bodice lining, and using a lightweight cotton or bamboo jersey for all your cozy spring picnic needs!
New to adaptive patterns? Check out our guide to adaptive patterns here!
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 4-6 yards Dusty Pink Stretch Satin
- 5-7 yards Pastel Rainbow Ombre Stripes Shadow Tulle
- 4 pcs European AB Pink Self Back Glass Button – 12L/7.5mm
- 3 yards White Knitted Elastic Trimming – 0.75″
- MDF303 – The Edith Dress Adaptable Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
- Elastic Back Waist
- Elastic Straps
- Detachable Cape with Buttons
Possible Pattern Adaptations:
Note: The whole skirt, including both the lining and overlay, is sewn using French seams.
1. Print, tape, and cut out pattern.
2. Cut out of base fabric, then overlay fabric.
3. Label all markings onto your pattern pieces.
4. Using a French seam, pin and stitch skirt center front and side front together. Do the same for the overlay pieces.
5. Next pin the side back and back panels together and stitch.
6. Pin and stitch the side seams together, leaving the area for the pocket open. Do the same with the overlay portion.
7. Pin overlay on top of skirt, matching seams. Pin in place. Once the overlay is pinned, pin pocket to one side of the side seam and stitch.
8. Pin the other side of the pocket to the side seam and stitch.
9. Pin pocket bottoms together and stitch closed. You will want to go over the side seam to secure the bottom of the pocket.
10. Pin and sew your center back seam, leaving the overlay free. Once the back is sewn, then sew the overlay.
11. Set the skirt aside.
12. Pin overlay pieces to the front bodice and stay-stitch the sides, securing the overlay to the bodice. Next, create gathering stitches along the top and bottom edges.
13. Using the front waistband as a guide, gather bodice pieces to fit into the waistband, matching notches. Note: If you want to change the style of the bodice or want more coverage, ignore the notches and gather less.
14. Fold your tabs with the right sides together, then trim and press.
15. Fold your strap in half. Pin, sew, trim your seam allowance, and press.
16. Measure your shoulder to your waistline with elastic. Once measured, cut two pieces of elastic and thread them through each strap. Once the elastic is threaded through, keep pins in both ends until sewn down and secured.
17. Create gathering stitches at bottom of the underlining for the bodice.
18. Adjust gathers for the top of the front bodice to fit the underlining. Pin them together at sides, leaving the top and bottom open. Note: If you would like more accessibility, stitch the top closed and attach the strap to the bodice via Velcro or snaps.
19. Thread the straps through the inside and pin. Next, pin the tab on top of the strap. Note: in the picture the tab is under the strap, but that is not the correct way. If you do it that way, the tab will be on the wrong side.
20. Once everything is pinned, sew around the edges. Trim corners, turn right side out and press.
21. Pin the bodice to the waistband and stitch. Note: keep pins in on the end of the strap so the elastic won’t get sucked back into it.
22. With the right sides together, pin the other front waistband at the top and stitch.
23. With right sides together, open the front waistband and pin the back waistband to the front. Then stitch.
24. Sew gathering stitches along the front skirt.
25. Pin skirt to bodice matching side seams to waistband side seams. Gather the front skirt to fit the front waistband. Criss cross straps and place them on the inside of the waistband next to back side seams. Once all is pinned, stitch around the waist. Note: you can place your straps wherever is most comfortable to you.
26. Measure your back waist. Make sure there is enough stretch needed. Once measured, pin and sew the elastic to the back waistband at side seams.
27. Fold the raw edge of your front waistband under and slip stitch. Next, you will fold your back waistband over the elastic and stitch. Note: you will have to sew, then bunch the fabric, and sew again to close the back waistband.
28. With your back tabs, sew your two button holes. Note: We chose to use buttonholes, but the back extension/cape can be attached using hooks & eyes, Velcro, or snaps depending on preference.
29. For your back extension, cut two 1 yard panels then sew a basting stitch at the top of each panel and gather. Next, you will fold your panel into a fan fold and stitch along the top to secure the folds and gathers. Note: Here is where you can customize your garment extra. Try shorter extensions, or one swag attached at both shoulders.
30. Once everything is secured, stuff your panel into your back tab and slip stitch shut. This is tricky, so make sure to take your time and use pins while you sew.
31. Sew your two buttons on the other tabs at the shoulder. Once the buttons are sewn, the end result will look like this.
32. Lastly, do a rolled hem at the base of the skirt, and cut the tulle overlay to your desired hem length.