As temperatures finally start to warm up here in New York, I’m dreaming of summer weddings at sculpture gardens upstate. The Edith Dress is Mood’s latest adaptive pattern, which combines daring details with a regal cape for the ultimate special occasion dress. With both elasticized and detachable features, it is an accessible all-rounder and great for anyone with additional mobility concerns. (Oh, and did we mention it has pockets?) We’ve whipped it up in one of our new pastel ombre tulles for an ethereal, princess-y vibe. However, you can create it out of a silk crepe de chine for a sleek look, or show off a silk charmeuse print. Don’t forget knits either—try stabilizing the waist and bodice lining, and using a lightweight cotton or bamboo jersey for all your cozy spring picnic needs!
New to adaptive patterns? Check out our guide to adaptive patterns here!
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 4-6 yards Dusty Pink Stretch Satin
- 5-7 yards Pastel Rainbow Ombre Stripes Shadow Tulle
- 4 pcs European AB Pink Self Back Glass Button – 12L/7.5mm
- 3 yards White Knitted Elastic Trimming – 0.75″
- MDF303 – The Edith Dress Adaptable Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
Adaptations Made:
- Elastic Back Waist
- Elastic Straps
- Detachable Cape with Buttons
Possible Pattern Adaptations:
Note: The whole skirt, including both the lining and overlay, is sewn using French seams.
Step 1
Print, tape, and cut out pattern.
Step 2
Cut out of base fabric, then overlay fabric.
Step 3
Label all markings onto your pattern pieces.
Step 4
Using a French seam, pin and stitch skirt center front and side front together. Do the same for the overlay pieces.
Step 5
Next pin the side back and back panels together and stitch.
Step 6
Pin and stitch the side seams together, leaving the area for the pocket open. Do the same with the overlay portion.
Step 7
Pin overlay on top of skirt, matching seams. Pin in place. Once the overlay is pinned, pin pocket to one side of the side seam and stitch.
Step 8
Pin the other side of the pocket to the side seam and stitch.
Step 9
Pin pocket bottoms together and stitch closed. You will want to go over the side seam to secure the bottom of the pocket.
Step 10
Pin and sew your center back seam, leaving the overlay free. Once the back is sewn, then sew the overlay.
Step 11
Set the skirt aside.
Step 12
Pin overlay pieces to the front bodice and stay-stitch the sides, securing the overlay to the bodice. Next, create gathering stitches along the top and bottom edges.
Step 13
Using the front waistband as a guide, gather bodice pieces to fit into the waistband, matching notches. Note: If you want to change the style of the bodice or want more coverage, ignore the notches and gather less.
Step 14
Fold your tabs with the right sides together, then trim and press.
Step 15
Fold your strap in half. Pin, sew, trim your seam allowance, and press.
Step 16
Measure your shoulder to your waistline with elastic. Once measured, cut two pieces of elastic and thread them through each strap. Once the elastic is threaded through, keep pins in both ends until sewn down and secured.
Step 17
Create gathering stitches at bottom of the underlining for the bodice.
Step 18
Adjust gathers for the top of the front bodice to fit the underlining. Pin them together at sides, leaving the top and bottom open.
Note: If you would like more accessibility, stitch the top closed and attach the strap to the bodice via Velcro or snaps.
Step 19
Thread the straps through the inside and pin. Next, pin the tab on top of the strap.
Note: in the picture the tab is under the strap, but that is not the correct way. If you do it that way, the tab will be on the wrong side.
Step 20
Once everything is pinned, sew around the edges. Trim corners, turn right side out and press.
Step 21
Pin the bodice to the waistband and stitch.
Note: keep pins in on the end of the strap so the elastic won’t get sucked back into it.
Step 22
With the right sides together, pin the other front waistband at the top and stitch.
Step 23
With right sides together, open the front waistband and pin the back waistband to the front. Then stitch.
Step 24
Sew gathering stitches along the front skirt.
Step 25
Pin skirt to bodice matching side seams to waistband side seams. Gather the front skirt to fit the front waistband. Criss cross straps and place them on the inside of the waistband next to back side seams. Once all is pinned, stitch around the waist.
Note: you can place your straps wherever is most comfortable to you.
Step 26
Measure your back waist. Make sure there is enough stretch needed. Once measured, pin and sew the elastic to the back waistband at side seams.
Step 27
Fold the raw edge of your front waistband under and slip stitch. Next, you will fold your back waistband over the elastic and stitch.
Note: you will have to sew, then bunch the fabric, and sew again to close the back waistband.
Step 28
With your back tabs, sew your two button holes. Note: We chose to use buttonholes, but the back extension/cape can be attached using hooks & eyes, Velcro, or snaps depending on preference.
Step 29
For your back extension, cut two 1 yard panels then sew a basting stitch at the top of each panel and gather. Next, you will fold your panel into a fan fold and stitch along the top to secure the folds and gathers.
Note: Here is where you can customize your garment extra. Try shorter extensions, or one swag attached at both shoulders.
Step 30
Once everything is secured, stuff your panel into your back tab and slip stitch shut. This is tricky, so make sure to take your time and use pins while you sew.
Step 31
Sew your two buttons on the other tabs at the shoulder. Once the buttons are sewn, the end result will look like this.
Step 32
Lastly, do a rolled hem at the base of the skirt, and cut the tulle overlay to your desired hem length.
this is breathtaking
It’s past midnight and i’ve been searching for fabric needed for a costume. So I thought I’d check out what you guys had for spring since it’s been well. . . over a year since i looked last. I never thought i’d see adaptive sewing patterns, for free, and for things beyond basic loungewear. My world has opened up again. I deal with tremors and joint dislocations and pain, and honestly more than that too. While I’m grateful for the advances made in adaptive fashion (it was a lifesaver when i had a central line) i haven’t found things that i vibe with from a style standpoint. now i can make my own things with the fabric i want to make the fashion i need to boost my self esteem. disabled people deserve good fashion too. I’m excited to get started making it.
I love this! Can we get measurements.for the drape fabric part since.its.just a rectangle? That would save me so much paper and ink!
Thanks in advance.
Hi D, The back cape accents are a yard of fabric gathered into the small shoulder tabs. 😀
how long does the elastic have to be for the back waist and what width of elastic should I get as well for that.
Hi Liz! We used 0.75″ elastic. For the length needed for your back waist elastic, you will take your back waist measurement and subtract 1-2″ to get the correct amount of stretch. 😀
How much fabric do we need to get for the size 6? On other patterns I see yardage recommendations in the shop this look tab on the corner, but not this one.
Hi Ed! We made a size 4 for our sample, so for a size 6, I would suggest 5 yards of the underlay and 6 yards of the overlay fabric. 😀
If I wanted to make a short dress knee length for a more casual look how many yards fabric would I need?
Would you suggest this for starter project?
Hi, Amy – I’m actually making a knee-length version right now! For a size 10 without the streamers at the shoulders, I got 4 yards and even had a little bit extra leftover. 🙂
Do we cut the same amount of each pattern piece for the tulle fabric?
Hi Iman! The overlay fabric is used for each pattern piece, as well as about 2-3 yards extra for the optional streamers at the back. 😀
Camille,
I just wanted to say a HUGE HUGE THANKS, because I had this design in mind for cosplay projects purposes and couldn’t find one that was close that what I had in mind. After hours of research, I found yours and I am so grateful. So, again, thanks you! You made my day!
Aww, thank you Sarah! 😀
Good morning..
I planing this dress for my daughters prom.
Am I correct in thinking that the skirt is made up of 6 pieces if both front and back cut on the fold.
She was also wanting a split, so I’m hoping so
Thank you
Jacqui
Hi Jacqui, we’re sorry for the delay in responding to your question! We get dozens of comments and questions each day, and so many questions get buried and, unfortunately, unanswered. We are now focusing user support on patterns 2 years and newer. We hope this will prevent questions on our more current patterns from going unanswered. Although this is late, we wanted to respond in case anyone else has the same question: yes you are correct- the skirt is made up of 6 pieces if front and back are cut on the fold.
Hey! I was wondering how yall figured out what size your patern was. I’m a size 14.
Hi Ashlynn! Use the size chart & finished garment measurement chart to choose your size. 🙂
Do you have any suggestions if someone would like a slightly less exposed chest area?
Hello! we’re sorry for the delay in responding to your question! We get dozens of comments and questions each day, and so many questions get buried and, unfortunately, unanswered. We are now focusing user support on patterns 2 years and newer. We hope this will prevent questions on our more current patterns from going unanswered. Although this is late, we wanted to respond in case anyone else has the same question: you can add or decrease fullness at the bust for additional coverage for your preference.
Is the pattern available as a copy shop or A0 file as well?
Hi Kendra, we are not able to offer A0 format on our free patterns 🙁
Hi camille !
Where can I find the downloadable pattern?
I can’t find the link!
Sorry if i’m being stupid in asking this question
Hi Polly! Fill out the “Download Your Free Pattern” form, and a download link will be sent via email. If for some reason that isn’t working, simply email info@moodfabrics.com and they’ll send it directly to you! Happy sewing 🙂
How much is the seem allowance?
Hi Brook, a 1/2″ seam allowance is included!
So is the “Edith” in the name Edith Head? She was an amazing costume designer in Hollywood.
Hi! If I don’t want the tulle layer, would you recommend two satin layers or only one? Thanks in advance.
Hi Isabella, we’re sorry for the delay in responding to your question! We get dozens of comments and questions each day, and so many questions get buried and, unfortunately, unanswered. We are now focusing user support on patterns 2 years and newer. We hope this will prevent questions on our more current patterns from going unanswered. Although this is late, we wanted to respond in case anyone else has the same question: we recommend only one satin layer.
How many panels should I cut for the skirt part?
Hi Chelbi, we’re sorry for the delay in responding to your question! We get dozens of comments and questions each day, and so many questions get buried and, unfortunately, unanswered. We are now focusing user support on patterns 2 years and newer. We hope this will prevent questions on our more current patterns from going unanswered. Although this is late, we wanted to respond in case anyone else has the same question: If you’re cutting it with the two back pieces mirrored, you’re going to have 7 panels. If you’re cutting it with the back piece on the fold, you’re going to have 6 panels.
Thank you soooo much for the pattern. I am somewhat of a beginner in sewing and had a great time making this dress. I made it for a friend who was a bridesmaid at her brother’s wedding and everybody loved it! <3
This is a beautiful pattern! Quick question, how important is it for the base fabric to be stretch satin? Could normal, non-stretch satin be used?
Hi Tasha, we’re sorry for the delay in responding to your question! We get dozens of comments and questions each day, and so many questions get buried and, unfortunately, unanswered. We are now focusing user support on patterns 2 years and newer. We hope this will prevent questions on our more current patterns from going unanswered. Although this is late, we wanted to respond in case anyone else has the same question: you can use non-stretch satin for the base as well.
I’m having a difficult time trying to get the pattern. I’ve entered my email but it’s not working. Any advice?
Hi Anneka, we’re sorry about that! Email info@moodfabrics.com and they’ll send the pattern directly to you!
I made this dress a couple of months ago and it looks incredible. I used a cheescloth fabric with no overlay. I didn’t make many alterations to the pattern and just used lots of tape on the bust to hold it in place, and it works really well. I wish we could post photos in the comments to share our creations. Thanks for a great pattern.
For a 1/2″ SA on a french seam, would you recommend doing 1/4″ for the first pass and 1/4″ again to encase? Can’t wait to make this for my 10th anniversary party!
Yes exactly, 1/4″ wrong sides together first, then 1/4″ right sides together to get a french seam with 1/2″ total SA.
Love the pattern, thank you so much for making it available! I want to try to make this dress out of velvet without the shoulder drapes, would there be any concerns for working with fabric like this or should it be fine? Would love to hear from you, thnx again!
Hi Noa, this would look stunning in velvet! I think it would work well. 🙂
Thank you for your reply!
So my question is, is there a bra built in?or how can i include a bra in the dress?
Hi Sam, we’re sorry for the delay in responding to your question! We get dozens of comments and questions each day, and so many questions get buried and, unfortunately, unanswered. We are now focusing user support on patterns 2 years and newer. We hope this will prevent questions on our more current patterns from going unanswered. Although this is late, we wanted to respond in case anyone else has the same question: a bra is not built into the dress. We recommend sewing in triangle bra pads for support if you wanted to include a bra into the dress.
Hello, I love this pattern, does this need a stretch fabric?
Hi Alexandra! You can get away with non stretch fabric for this!
Hi there! This is beautiful and I’m so grateful there are so many free patterns online. I’m very much a beginner at sewing. Do you image I could make this at my skill level?
Hello, we would recommend to have good sewing experience for a pattern with many elements like this one.
How would you make this without elastic and possible a zipper?
Hello Emily, to omit the elastic waistband for a zipper, simply align the center back seams from the back of the skirt and the waistband to install a zipper at the back.