With all of the incredible designs walking the runways with gorgeously exquisite crosses and beaded religious symbols, it was only a matter of time until we tried our hand at a full ecclesiastical jacquard à la D&G. In the wake of this year’s Met Gala, religion has been at the forefront of fashion, and in the season of the holidays it seems to be ramping up even more. Whether you want to stand out at your holiday party or play it a little more classic, The Ercilla Suit delivers. Push its potential and dress to the nines with a vibrant, metallic jacquard, or keep it more subtle and sophisticated with a sleek suiting.
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
First, let’s start with the pants. With the faces together, place the pocket facing atop the front panel of your pants and sew along the edge that will become the pocket opening. Flip the facing towards the wrong side of the pants and press the seam, like you can see in the top right image below.
Next, you’ll want to sew the actual pocket to the facing. Since I didn’t line these pants, I chose to use French seams, like you can see in the two bottom images below. If you also choose French seams, be sure to press your pocket flat after sewing.
Next, the pants start to go together rather quickly. Attach your two front panels at the rise, and repeat with both back panels. Combine the front and back of your pants beginning with the inseam. Regardless of what type of seams you’re going with, I recommend pressing them flat after each step.
Once your inseam is complete, sew up the entirety of one outer seam on your pants. Interface all 4 of your waistband panels and sew two of them together along the same side seam that you just closed on your pants.
Aligning those seams, attach the 2 sewn panels of your waistband to the top of your pants.
On the open side of your pants, add an invisible zipper, making sure to leave about 1/2″ at the top of your waistband for seam allowance. Once the zipper is inserted, sew up the remainder of your open pant leg.
Take the last 2 panels of your waistband and sew them together on one of the side seams. With the faces together, align the side seam with the waistband layer that’s currently attached to your pants and stitch along the top edge of the band.
Finish up your pants by folding the waistband facing down inside your garment, tuck in the raw edges 1/2″ and slip-stitch around it. Lastly, hem the bottom of your pants to the desired length and they’re ready to wear!
Next up is the blazer. Begin by interfacing at least two of your Center Front/Lapel pieces that you intend to use as your facings. If you’re working with a very lightweight fabric or suiting, you many want to interface all four.
Take the two facing pieces and attach them to the Side Front panels, fabric faces together like you see above. Do the same with your two Back panels, sewing up the center back seam. Attach the front and back along the side seams. (Note: for a more fitted silhouette, you can follow the guidelines on your pattern piece to add darts to the back of your jacket.)
The neckline and shoulders has a lot of steps all at once, but don’t be afraid – it’s not too tricky. Begin by sewing your two Center Front/Lapel pieces at the center back seam, like you see in the top left image below. Press the seam flat.
Next, attach the front and back of your garment at the shoulder, sewing from the shoulder towards the neckline and stopping 1/2″ from the neckline of your back panel.
In the seam allowance of your front panel, clip from the corner of the shoulder directly in towards the end of your stitching line like you see in the lower left image above.
Lastly, match up the center seams of the back panels and lapel, and sew along the back neckline to match up your seams and the shoulder corners as you see in the bottom right image.
Add your sleeves to your lining, make sure all your seams are pressed open, and set this layer aside for the time being.
To get started on the outer layer of your blazer, interface the two pocket welts and then fold them in half along the length, like you see above.
Place your pocket and pocket lining together, faces touching, and sandwich your pocket welt in between along the angled top edge. Stitch along the top edge, and fold the lining toward the back of the pocket and press flat, with the pocket welt along the top.
Lay your pocket on top of your Side Front panel, with the fabric faces of both facing upwards. Stay-stitch along the three raw edges of the pocket.
Here, combine your outer blazer pieces the same way you put your lining together. Once you’ve completed both layers of your jacket, pin the self to the lining with the faces together. Match up your center back seams and be sure you don’t accidentally catch any of your sleeves. Sew around its entirety.
Lastly, pull your garment right side out through one of your sleeves. Press around the neckline and hem of your jacket and slip-stitch the lining at the bottom of your sleeves.
All it needs now is some buttons and a little bit of sparkle on the pockets!
How will you be styling your suit – full brocade or a more subtle suiting? Let me know your plans in the comments!