We’ve seen the eyelet trend growing season after season, but instead of slowing down like most trends at a certain point, this one just seems to keep going. With the rise of 19th-century vibes working their way into modern clothing, we’re seeing a similar increase in the use of heavy laces. The Flora Blouse free sewing pattern is the perfect project to work one of these unique textiles into your wardrobe. With a single upper yoke and delicate gathers, this shirt lends itself well to mixing fabrics in the best way.
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 1 yard Zimmermann Ivory Geometric Cotton Blended Guipure Lace
- 2 yards Ushuaia Ivory Crinkled Linen and Rayon Gauze
- 8 Rimmed White 4-Hole Button – 18L/11.5mm
- MDF228 – The Flora Blouse Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
Alternative Recommended Fabrics:
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
Begin by pinning your lower front panels to the lower back at the side seams. Using a French seam, sew the bottom 4″ of each side seam, like you see below.
Using a French seam again, add the curved edge of your sleeves along the still-open edges of your side seams. For this sleeve, there’s no inseam, so the raw edges with face upward like you see below. Press all of your seams.
Face to face, pin the back edge of your yoke along the top edge of your lower back. Align the center back points, sleeve notches, and ends of your sleeve first before evenly gathering the rest of your lower back/sleeves into the yoke. Sew, press the seam allowance up, and top-stitch the seam allowance into place.
Along the top edges of your lower front panels and sleeves, finish the raw edge using a small 1/4″ rolled hem.
Pin the bottom edge of your front yoke to your lower front panels and sleeves, like below. Evenly gather the lower portions into the lace. Since I was using the scalloped edge of the lace, I top-stitched along the top of the lower panels, but you could choose to attach your front yoke similarly to how the back was sewn.
Along the center front edges of your blouse, attach the button plackets, like you see below. Fold the placket in half along the length and tuck the raw edges inside and pin. I chose to slip-stitch the plackets shut in the inside of the garment, but you can use your machine to top-stitch or stitch-in-the-ditch, if you prefer.
Attach your collar face to face along the neckline of your shirt, leaving a 1/2″ overhang at each end. Ease the remainder of your neckline into the collar and then fold the collar in half, face to face. Stitch along each end like the lower righthand image, flip right side out and tuck any remaining raw edges inward. Slip-stitch the inside of the collar closed.
Create each of your sleeve cuffs by attaching them face to face at the short edges and sewing to create a loop. Attach each to the end of your sleeves similarly to your placket. Fold them in half, tuck in the raw edges, and slip-stitch.
Hem the bottom of your blouse with a small 1/4″ rolled hem and lastly, add your buttons and corresponding buttonholes along your front placket.
Will you be giving the Flora Blouse a try? Let me know what fabric combinations you’re considering in the comments below!
18 comments
Looks really really cute! <3
Hi! I love,love,love, this blouse! Of course I love all the patterns, but this one is the “sprinkles ” on top! I have some pretty eyelet I was keeping, trying to decide what to make it into and low and behold I opened the email…..Thankyou!
Quick question: is seam allowance included in this pattern?
Yes, a 1/2″ seam allowance is already included. 🙂
Thank you sew much
I’m concerned the straight collar with stand straight up instead of have the graceful curve in your blouse. I’m going to be using an embroidered lawn for my blouse. Any tips for the collar?
Hi, Christine! The recommended fabric has a bit of give so the collar is slightly shorter than the full length of the neckline. The neckline is eased into it so that it lays inward, similarly to a t-shirt collar. I hope that makes sense! 🙂
So excited to try this one!
j’adore elle est trop belle !
I would love to know if anyone has tried this pattern in a knit. I can see the drape being great but am concerned about the weight on the yoke. Any suggestions?
Hi! I did this with a mid weight knit and it turned out great! I did make a few alterations:
– I extended the neck line 1/2 around the back and 1″ (graded to the shoulder) at the front so it could work as a pull over rather than button up
– I cut the front pattern piece on the fold (again, with the goal of being a pull over)
– I lined the yoke- I used a stretch lace for the outer layer and for the lining I used the same mid weight knit that I used for the body. Clear elastic was too much to use around the neckline as a reinforcement so I used a lightweight iron on double sided fusible staytape meant for knits around the neckline and that was perfect. I also used a narrow zigzag to understitch @ the neckline.
– I basted the yoke and yoke lining together at the back, front and arm. I fused a lightweight interfacing to the WS of the front and back of the yoke to give stability.
– I did a very narrow serged stitch for the hem
– The remainder of the pattern I made as written (attaching the front/back/sleeves, gathering, sleeve cuffs)
The end result: The drape is beautiful and it turned out to be sublimely comfortable. With the interfacing at the neckline and yoke the shape held up well with wearing and washing. I rather petite (4’11”) and this shirt hit mid hip bones on me, so I would imagine this would be crop top length on most people. The sleeves were elbow length on me.
I can’t wait to try this! I think it would look beautiful in a double gauze.
Hi Courtney,
I will be making the blouse in size 2. Is there a way to know how much of each fabrics I will need? Thank you!
Hi, Karla! We post all the different sizing yardage requirements in the ‘Shop this Look’ widget on each pattern. 🙂
I so appreciate the breast spread measurements added to your size chart. I’m always checking patterns for wearing ease allowance. Thank you so much for that. I purchased a top like this in a lingerie department years ago.
I’ve worn it as a day shirt, too. My purchased top has a white cotton/poly blend lace and a white knit bottom half. The neckline and sleeve is trimmed out just like yours. It has a shirt tail hem. It is so comfortable, cozy and flattering. Thank you so much for your pattern. Now I won’t need to draft off a pattern from mine.
This top is so pretty in the picture, but is very short. I had to add 7″ to the bottom to make it look ok. I followed all the sizing directions, but it came out really big with the amount of gathering on the bust and back. I made a second top without all the gathering, and reducing the width of the shirt by about 6″ on the back and probably 3″ on each side of the front. It’s better, but does not look like the same top. This was my first time using a downloadable pattern, so I’m sure it’s me. I wish I could have seen it on a model, and not the form to better understand how this is supposed to fit.
Hi !
Help ! I’m trying to print the pattern but I can’t get the square to the right size. At least the square on the first page is good (2 inch) but on the other pages it is smaller while I print the entire pattern (and therefore with the same parameters). Do you have any idea ? I am in France and I have set my printer to US letter (which works for page 1).
I am desperate because I want to give this beautiful blouse to my mother for Christmas …
Thank you in advance for your help.
Severine
Hi, Severine! Only the test square on the first page needs to measure 2″ – as long as that’s accurate, the rest should print correctly with the same parameters. 🙂