Throwback looks are in and I’m on board to fully embrace the Seventies. I’m usually one for skinny jeans, but as more and more wide-leg pants hit the runways, I figured I should just go all the way with a high-waisted flare silhouette. I was a little nervous since I’m on the curvier end of the spectrum, but my height paired with a platform heel balanced things out a bit. Plus, I’ve decided I’m just going to wear what I like and rock the heck out of it regardless and I hope everyone else follows suit because it’s fabulous!
Paired here with The Felicia Sweater, which is available for free download as well!
Fabrics & materials used:
- 2.5 yards Famous NYC Designer Navy Chalk Striped Cotton Twill
- 1/2 yard Pocketing or Lining (or poplin – I used some scraps I had of this Mood exclusive print!)
- 1 pkg Silver Dritz 6 Jean Buttons
- 2 spools 4888 Indigo 200m Gutermann Jeans Thread
- Schmetz Stretch Twin Needle Size 4.0/75
- Optional: 1/4 yard Black Water Jet Loom Fusible Interfacing
- MDF018 – The Forsythia Jeans Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
Pattern includes a 1/2″ seam allowance unless otherwise stated.
You’ll want to begin by facing the pocket for your pants. The facings are what will be seen while you’re wearing your jeans, so cutting them from your denim is best. You’ll want something thinner like a poplin for the remainder of the pocket to avoid bulk. Place your facings with the wrong sides against the right sides of your pocket lining. Secure with a zig-zag stitch along the curves.
On the wrong side of your pocket, trim the lining along the curve of your denim facing, fold under and press like you see below.
Next, edge-stitch along the fold and then line up your pocket with the front of your jeans.
With the faces of your fabric together, sew along the curve of the pocket and notch the seam allowance.
Fold your pocket over to the wrong side of the pant panel, press along the curve, and edge-stitch.
To finish up your pockets, fold the lining in half and sew along the bottom (just the lining, don’t include the pant panel).
Next, you’ll need to face the fly extension on the right panel (the right as if the jeans are being worn) of the front of your pants. Since this is where you’ll be attaching your buttons, I also recommend interfacing this piece for some extra stability.
With the faces together again, line up the fly facing with the extension and sew along the shorter edge, like below. Fold the facing toward the wrong side of the pant panel and press.
Fold the longer edge under, about 1/2″ in, and stitch along the fold.
Take the left pant panel and fold the fly extension inward toward the wrong side of the fabric. Use a twin needle to stitch it into place.
Attach both front pant panels, sewing along the rise from the crotch to the fly extension.
Fold open the front of your pants and overlap the left fly panel with the right fly extension. Secure them into place by stitching along the bottom edge, like you see below.
To begin the back of your jeans, attach the yokes to the top of the back pant panels. Fold the seam allowance downward and top-stitch with a twin needle. Sew the two panels, faces together, along the back rise of the pants.
Take your pocket pieces, fold the top down 1.25″, press and stitch into place. I went over mine twice with a double needle so there are four stitching lines, but however you’d like to decorate your pockets is up to you!
Fold the raw edges in 1/2″ inch all around your pocket, press, and top-stitch them onto the back of your jeans. I recommend securing the top corners with rivets or bar tacks.
I chose a decorative stitch like you see above in lieu of a bar tack.
Now comes the part where you begin to attach the front and back of your jeans. Start at the inseam, matching up the rises with the faces of your fabric together. Stitch your seam allowance down like you see below. I used a twin needle along the rise and a basic needle along the inseam.
Placing the right sides of your fabric together again, attach the front and back panels at their respective outseams. Check your fit, making any necessary adjustments before top-stitching the seam allowance from the top edge of your pants to just below the pocket, like you see below. Finish with a bar tack or rivet.
Attach your waistband panel and fold it in half along the length. Fold the raw edges inward and top-stitch around the entire rectangle.
Next, follow the button guide on the pattern to place your buttons and buttonholes along the fly. If you’ve never inserted buttons for jeans before, there’s a super handy tutorial on the back of each box from Dritz. All you need is a hammer!
You’re almost done, I promise! Take this time to try on your pants. You may want help from a friend to hem them to your desired length. Keep in mind what shoes you’ll often be wearing with them. I kept these a little longer since I knew they’d almost always be paired with a chunky heel. Whichever length you choose, leave an extra inch to double fold the raw edges inward and secure with a twin needle, like above.
Lastly, add some belt loops! For mine, I just folded a 1.5″ strip into thirds and stitched along the length with a twin needle again. From that, I cut 6 pieces at 3.5″ long. Two were placed at the back seam, like you see above, one at each side seam, and one to the side of each pocket on the front of the jeans.
Now your jeans are complete for all of your dramatic posing needs!
I might go in and tighten the waistband a little bit, but overall I’m incredibly pleased with the final result; especially since I have to admit, these are officially my first pair of finished jeans! I love coats and skirts and pants, but I had been a little wary of tackling all the tricky seaming and top-stitching that comes along with making jeans. Luckily, these were super fun!