I think we all binge-watched The Queen’s Gambit, and we all drooled over Beth’s wardrobe. Between her adorable dresses, her chic coats, and the accessories to die for, there was rarely a moment she didn’t look completely put together. The first outfit she buys with her chess winnings has a special place in my heart and acted as inspiration for this new free pattern. With a wide-winged collared shirt and full-skirted pinafore, the Gambit Dress brings all the vintage vibes you need this season.
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 4-5 yards Italian Blueberry and Charcoal Plaid Wool Suiting
- 1 916 Pale Black 24″ Invisible Zipper
- 2-3 yards Chesterton Beige Calendered Organic Cotton Oxford
- 16-20 Luminous Italian Ivory Shank Back Button – 24L/15mm
- MDF239 – The Gambit Dress Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
Sewing the Shirt
First, create the darts on each of your front pieces following the guide on your pattern. Press each dart downward.
Attach the back of the shirt to the fronts at the shoulders and side seams using French seams. At the shoulders, be sure to stop your first row of stitches 1″ from the edge of your back neckline. The second set will end a 1/2″ from the edge.
Using a regular seam, attach the two front panels at the center back collar seam and press the seam open.
Using a regular seam again, attach your collar to the back neckline. Be sure to line up the center back of your shirt with the center back seam of the collar.
If using a lightweight shirting, I’d recommend interfacing your front facing pieces here. The fabric I went with is actually pretty sturdy all on its own, so I chose to skip interfacing.
Attach your facings at the center back with a regular seam. Pin face to face to your shirt, beginning at the center back and working your way around the perimeter of the collar and center front. Stitching, clip your seam allowances, turn right side out, and press.
Fold the raw edges along your facing inward 1/2″ and press. Pin the facing down so it lays flat against your shirt and stitch into place. I recommend machine stitching along the front and slip-stitching along the collar.
Face to face, sew your bias binding along the opening on each of your sleeves. Double fold the binding inward, tucking in the raw edge and stitch-in-the-ditch to secure.
Form each of your sleeves by sewing up the inseam with French seams. Attach each cuff along the bottom edge of your sleeves, leaving 1/2″ on either end for seam allowance. Fold the cuff upward in half, faces together, and sew along the sides. Flip each cuff right side out and press. Fold the raw edges along the inside edge inward, press, and slip-stitch closed.
If desired, add a button and button loop or hole at each cuff, but personally, I used the vintage feel of this shirt as an excuse to secure the sleeves with some cute cuff links.
Create your button placket, sewing the two pieces face to face with a small opening to turn it right side out. Clip the corners, turn right side out, and press. Top-stitch around the perimeter and pin the placket beneath one side of your shirt center front. Sew two rows of buttons along the placket, securing them through your shirt as well along the one side. On the other side of your shirt, add corresponding buttonholes.
Finish off your shirt with a 1/4″ double rolled hem.
Sewing the Pinafore
First, sew the two back panels of the skirt to the front panel at the sides using French seams. Set the skirt aside for the time being as you sew the bodice.
Attach the front and side bodice, making sure to match up the notches. In the show, the plaid matches along the top part of the bodice near the shoulder, so that’s how I chose to cut my pieces as well. If you’re not using a plaid, the side front can be cut regularly on the grain instead. Repeat with your lining and press your seams open after sewing.
Add the darts on your back panels and back lining before attaching the front and back pieces at the sides and shoulders. Press each seam open again.
Attach your main bodice pieces to their corresponding lining along the neckline, fabric faces together. Clip along the curves in the seam allowance, turn right side out, and press.
Fold the raw edges of your armscyes inward 1/2″ and press. With the folded seam allowances together, pull the armscyes to be partially inside out to sew along the pressed fold. Once the lining is fully attached around the armhole, turn fully right side out and press again.
Overlap your two bodice pieces at the center front so the bottom corners hit the princess seams of the opposite piece like you see above. Pin and stay-stitch into place before attaching your skirt using a French seam or bias-bound seam.
Insert an invisible zipper at the center back before finishing up the remainder of the center back skirt with another French seam. Finish off the bottom of your pinafore with a 1/4″ double rolled hem!
Love it, it is gorgeous !!!
Nice instructions and pictures.
I love this dress and want to make it! I was infatuated with Beth’s wardrobe in the Queen’s Gambit. She was a perfect mix of classy, confident and sassy. Loved the show!
is the pattern just for the dress or does it include the shirt as well? looks great, can’t wait to try!
This pattern includes the shirt and pinafore! 🙂
Gostaria de fazer os modelos para meu uso agradeso
Hi! I’m 17 year old girl trying to learn about sewing. I really appreciatte your effort to share your knowledge and for the free pattern huhu I’m crying , a lot of designr amd sewers on youtube but they sell their pattern and can’t afford it huhu thank you very much and love youu
Ok take my money, I’m buying all the supplies for this. Love it! I’ve just finished the book and I’m looking forward to watching the show next!!
this is the 5th pattern I’ve made from you guys! I loved the shaping on the bodice. Will definitely be making more of these dresses.
Are the measurements in centimetres or inches? Also I am so excited to make this!
Our size chart is in inches! 🙂
Ok thank you so much! Also whenever I do the subscribe and get link thing I get a link and it does say queens gambit pinafore download all of that in the link but it just brings me to a home page like thing and I cant find the download.
Oh I did it again and I got the correct link, very excited to make 😀
Super gorgeous, am gonna try this for real!!!!!………… And please are all sizes included in the pattern???
Yes, this pattern is available from a size 0-30! 🙂
I have never sewn a mood pattern before, how does the measurement work. is there a finished garment measurement to go by to determine the correct size to cut???
Hi, Pauline! Our size chart above is based on body measurements. 🙂
This is beautiful, you’re very talented! I can’t wait to make this!
Could I use a velvet fabric for the pinafore?
Hi Misha! Yes, a lightweight velvet would work well for this dress. 😀
Is the seam allowance included in the pattern?
Yes, a 1/2″ seam allowance is already included! 🙂
Thank you! Sorry, I saw that just after I asked!
Hi! I’m having a bit of trouble understanding the instructions on how to attach the lining at the armscyes. Does anyone know if this is a specific lining technique with a name I could look up for further clarification?
I had similar issues understanding how to finish off the armscyes – I tried to puzzle it out and try various ways it could work, but I kept having to rip out my seams. I ended up finding a tutorial that looked like it was the same method, or at least very similar… didn’t list a specific name for the technique, but the tutorial was ‘how to clean finish a lined armhole’ over at Seamwork. I used it on one armhole (I had to do it in three sections as opposed to their two sections… and there’s still a little spot up by the shoulder I’m going to have to finish by hand). Because it was so tedious I think I may try another method on the second armhole.
Hi! I would like to just sew the pinafore, could you tell me which pages are the pattern for the pinafore? thanks!
Love this garment, but I wish it were photographed on a real, averaged to plus sized model so its real potential and possiblilities as a garment could be seen. It’s hard to imagine a garment on a dress form that doesn’t breathe or move. For me, dress forms seem dead…they don’t give a garment a true existance or life.
Trying this one, thx for creating this and the fabric suggestions, makes it real easy to take this on. Price is a factor here, but i feel the ease of getting it all together in one go is worth it. I have loads of project materials in various stages, some just need a few more materials to start so this is nice to just be able to start right away.
I just finished making the dress and I’m already planning on making a second in a different colour and print. Its going to become a staple in my closet
Was it not fitted for you too? I’m making this at the moment and it’s somehow way too big.
My was too big (mostly the bodice) but some simple sewing helped make it my size!!
Clarification question: Is the seam allowance included in the pattern or no? I made it with my size measurements and added seam allowance and it’s far too big!
Yes, seam allowance is included in all patterns. 🙂
i made the dress and i love it !! 10/10 really easy and great practice
i love this pattern but i was wonderig if you lined the skirt of the dress? Or just the bodice
Hi, Susan! I just lined the bodice for this one. 🙂
I’m thinking about making this with a skirt that is secretly pants with really wide legs to join the #SecretPants owners of the Internet. I also think I’ll move the zipper to the side seam. I’ll update this comment when I’m done to let you all know how it went! I’m really excited!
The pattern was easy to follow an the result was beautiful!!
Thank you so much for making this pattern. I just started sewing Nov 2021 and had only made oversized garments or clothes with elastic because I was scared of zippers. This was a big challenge for me, but I now have a gorgeous form fitting dress that is already made favorite article of clothing.
Hello is this also available in A0 format or only in print at home format? Thanks 🙂
Hi Kaz! Currently, our patterns are only available in a print-at-home format. 😀
Hello, I just subscribed to get the link but when I try to open it, it says that there’s been an error and I can`t download the pattern, has this happened to anyone else? thank you!!
nevermind, I waited for a day and tried again and now I could open it! I’m excited to start this project!! Thank you
Hello Sandra, we’re so sorry about that! It looks like there was a glitch in our system but it’s all fixed now! In the future, if you ever have difficulty downloading a free sewing pattern from us just email [email protected] and they’ll send the pattern straight to you. Happy sewing!
Would a side zipper be appropriate for this jumper? I can’t tell from the drawings if there is a side seam from armseye to hem.
Hi Christine! You could definitely put a zipper in the side seam! 🙂
Thank you so much, I love this pattern! I used this for two dresses already: one is made out of a beautiful black and green wool plaid, and the other one is a golden yellow linen summerdress. For the summerdress I sized up the front panels for modesty, because I wear it as it is. I had some extra fabric on the front, under the shoulders, so I had to put in a dart from the armscye pointing towards the bust area, and it solved the problem. It was easy to adjust. Thanks again! 🙂 Have a nice day!