I know for sure I’m not the only one who’s gearing up for Spring! Even though it’s still a bit nippy outside, who says we can’t get our “Pre-Spring” wardrobe together?
For this blog post, I’ve decided to work with one of the many AMAZING African Ankara prints that are available at Mood Fabrics. These prints are so fabulous, they always inspire my design process. I thought it would be great to make a light-weight, fitted coat that could easily transition to Spring. The coat is fully lined with a medium weight cotton quilting that gives it a little added warmth and structure.
I’m sure you’ll love the Geranium coat just as much as I do. I’ll guide you through my step-by-step photo tutorial for quick sewing instructions. The Geranium Coat Pattern is free and available below so download it now!
Here’s a list of everything I used:
- Blue, Red and Green Waxed Cotton African Print (Sadly this one is sold out, but Mood has over 80 more stunning Ankara prints!)
- Navy Quilted Cotton Woven
- Black Single-Faced Fusible Interfacing
- Gunmetal Metal Sew on Snaps- 45L/28mm
- The Geranium Coat Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated.
Pattern Pieces (lining is optional) ½” seam allowance:
- Front- X2 of fabric- X2 of lining
- Side Front- X2 of fabric- X2 of lining
- Back- X2 of fabric- X2 of lining
- Side Back- X2 of fabric- X2 of lining
- Sleeve- X2 of fabric- X2 of lining
- Under Sleeve- X2 of fabric-X2 of lining
- Pockets- X2 of fabric- X2 of lining- X2 of interfacing
- Front facing X2 of fabric- X2 of interfacing
- Back neck facing X1 of fabric on fold- X1 of interfacing on fold
- Optional Detachable Collar - X2 of contrast fabric
- Sew darts closed at front and back pattern pieces and press.
2. Pin backs together at center back, sew and press open seam allowances
3. Pin side backs to back side seams. Sew and press open seam allowances.4. Pin side fronts to front side seams. Sew and press open seam allowances.
5. Sew side seams of under sleeve to upper sleeve as shown.
A- Press interfacing to wrong side of pocket. With right sides together, pin lining to top edge of pocket. (Lining is ½” shorter than pocket front with ½” seam allowance.)
B- Stitch across top, leaving a 2” opening in center to turn pocket right side out.
C-Press pocket seam open at top and pin sides and bottoms together.
D- Stitch along sides of pocket and trim seam allowance. Turn pocket right side out through opening and press. Slip stitch center of pocket closed.
7. Transfer pocket placement to front coat with loose contrasting thread. Pin pocket onto front where marked and stitch 1/8” away from pocket edge. Remove marking thread.
8. With right sides together, pin coat front to back at side seams and shoulder seams and stitch. Press open all seam allowances.
9. Match notches on sleeves and coat and pin in place. Sew in sleeves and press open seam allowances.
10. I drafted a simple front and back neck facing pattern for my jacket. The width is 2” plus ½” seam allowance. Press interfacing onto wrong side of fabric. Attach back neck to front neck facing at shoulder seams and stitch. Press open. With right sides together pin facing to coat matching shoulders seams and stitch in place. Press all seams open.
11. Follow steps 1-9 when sewing the lining (disregarding pockets of course). Place lining into outer coat. Turn coat inside out and pin lining along facing edge. With right sides together, sew lining to facing and press seams open. Turn sleeves inside out and with right sides together at cuff, pin and stitch. Pin bottom edge of lining and coat together leaving a 4” opening at center to turn coat right side out.
12. I attached 2 large 1” snaps to the button placket. I centered each snap 1” from neck edge and 1” from placket edge. Each snap is placed 6 inches apart. I originally had 4 buttons to use for the closure, but I only attached 2 because the snaps are so large. It’s totally up to you to decide what works best for your coat. If you choose a heavier weight fabric, I would suggest using all 4 snaps.
And that's it!! Check out more photos of how I styled my Geranium Coat! Enjoy!!