Mood Fabric’s free Hana Bias Cut Dress pattern is simplicity at its best! Are you looking for a quick date night solution? Or perhaps you’ve always wanted to add this wardrobe staple to your list of projects. Either way, you’re in luck because this slip dress may be the most versatile piece you own! Showcase this classic number in printed cotton, linen, or silk if you’re up for the challenge! You can easily rock this dress all summer or with a blazer to head back to the office. Belt it to cinch in the waist, and layer it with a cozy sweater to transition into fall!
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 2.5 yards of Mood Exclusive Navy Wildwood Enchantments Viscose Twill Print
- One spool of 276 English 100 Gutermann Sewing All Thread
- MDF316 – The Hana Bias Cut Dress Pattern (free download below!)
Alternative Recommended Fabrics:
Cutting your fabric on the bias means placing your pattern at a 45-degree angle to the selvage. This cutting technique will add a fluid drape and flexibility to woven fabrics that don’t have stretch.
Here are some helpful tips for working with garments sewn on the bias:
- First, staystitch the neckline right away while the pieces are flat. Then, lay the pieces on the pattern to see if you stay stitched enough for them to maintain the original dimensions.
- Baste the side seams together. Then, put it on the form, let it hang for a few hours, and evaluate.
- Press your seams as you go. A wooden clapper can be helpful to hold in heat. Avoid ironing as it could increase the unwanted stretch.
Here’s How To Sew:
Step 1
With the right sides of your fabric facing, pin the front of your dress to the back and stitch the side seams together. Gently press your seams to avoid stretch.
Step 2
Now, with the right sides of your fabric facing, pin the front neck facing to the back facing and stitch the side seams together. Gently press your seams to avoid stretch.
Step 3
Fold your straps in half, with the right side of the fabric facing inward. Stitch along the strap seam. Trim the seam allowance and use a loop turner to turn the strap.
Step 4
Now, with the right sides of the fabric together, pin your neck facing along the front and back of the dress. Next, you must insert your straps, sandwiching them between the neck facing and the dress. Make sure you align the back straps where the notch indicates. Stitch around the neckline. Make a small clip on the center front seam allowance at the “V.” Turn and press.
Step 5
Lastly, use a 1/2″ rolled hem to finish the bottom of your dress. Lightly press.
Perfect My favorite slip dress feel apart just last week!!!
merci
This exactly what I have been looking for. I hope I have the skill to make it. Thank you.
Belle robe
Buongiorno! Sono alle prime armi e vorrei chiedere se i margini del cartamodello comprendono i margini di cucitura oppure non sono contati? Nel caso fossero all’interno del cartamodello, quanto sono le misure dei margini di cucitura? Grazie
Hi Elisa! The seam allowance for this pattern is 1/2″. 😀
Hi! Does this mean to add 1/2 to the pattern or does it mean to consider it into the pattern? Sorry for not knowing, lol. I’m new at this. Many thanks for your help!
Hello, all of Mood sewing patterns have 1/2″ seam allowance already included in the pattern, so you don’t have to add it.
The 2 1/2 yards was to make up which finished size?
Hi Giada! We used 2.5 yds for a size 10. 😀
Is there a recommended yardage of fabric by size?
Hello, Anne! Yes there is! It’s in the Shop This Look section at the top of this page, to the right. Happy Sewing 🙂
Can I use a stretch fabric for this dress?
Hi Kennedy! You can, but I would definitely recommend sizing down. Happy sewing!
How much fabrics do I Need?
Hello!
Thank you for visiting and downloading from Mood Sewciety!
We aim to offer you the best guidance possible, although there may be some approximations in our free sewing patterns to maintain their accessibility. We recommend printing out the pattern and assembling it to fit your size. By aligning the pattern pieces according to the grain lines, you can estimate the required yardage for your specific size with greater accuracy.
Happy Sewing!
The MoodSewciety Team
how long is the dress?
I LOVE this dress!! First dress I’ve ever made, I used blue stretch velvet and added a slut. It’ll be perfect for the holidays with a sweater. Thank you so much!
Hi Sophia, that sounds fabulous! We’d love to see it. Tag us on social media and use the hashtag #madewithmood 🙂
Do you have any tips for cutting on the fold AND on the bias?
This is SO close to what I have been looking for, however I need wider shoulder straps to cover bra straps that aren’t skinny and cute. Is there something similar that you know of that will cover? Thank you!
Hi Cathy! I think it would be an easy adjustment to make! You could always redraw the neckline and straps to mimic the shape of your bra. Also, we’ve got our The Jarrah Dress – Free Sewing Pattern, which you could use as a guide for the neckline and strap shape (minus the deep v, of course).
Hi Shavonne, new to sewing here – when you say to make a small clip at the centre front seam of the V do you mean to just cut with scissors on the seam so that you cannot see the seam? Could I do an understitch at the neckline?
Hi Kira! Yes, sew the facing to the neckline, clip into the seam allowance at the low v point, then turn right side out and press. If the fabric is pulling or not sitting well, you may need to clip a little more. Just be sure to not cut through the seam! Yes, you can understitch the neckline!
Thank you so much Elisabeth. I actually have one more question for clarification if you don’t mind. The pattern says to cut on the fold. I’m cutting on bias fold, correct?
Hi Kira! Yes, fold the fabric on the bias and cut! 🙂
Hi Elisabeth, how do you fold the fabric on the bias? I can only find videos on cutting strips for quilting on the bias. Thanks!
Hi Inga, we’re sorry for the delay in responding to your question! We get dozens of comments and questions each day, and so many questions get buried and, unfortunately, unanswered. Although this is late, we wanted to respond in case anyone else has the same question: make sure the fabric is laying flat, with the warp and weft undistorted. You’ll want a very straight weft edge, so recut if needed. Pick up that cut edge and carefully place it up and over, so that its straight edge is right on top of one of the selvedge edges. That folded edge is the bias fold! You may need to practice a few times to get just right.
I had heard the instructions were a bit vague or confusing, but did not expect that to be reflected in the pattern itself! The pattern has an indication to cut the front and back on the fold. But the instructions say to seam together at center back and center front. Not clear at all and I cut it on the fold and had to go back and alter to create a fake center seam to take up the seam allowances.
Hi RT, in step 1 it says “With the right sides of your fabric facing, pin the front of your dress to the back and stitch the side seams together.” The illustrations also indicate side seams, not CB and CF seams. If there’s an error in the instructions I’m happy to correct them! But I’m not seeing where it says to sew together at the center back and center front.
I’m not very experienced and have never sewn something on the bias.. Can it be some straight instead?
Hi Chris! This can absolutely be sewn on the straight grain! Before you cut your size out, decide how much ease you want the dress to have. Then use your measurements to compare to the pattern to find your desired fit. Keep in mind the seam allowance is included in the pattern, so you’ll have to subtract it on each side seam.
Are the squares on the sides supposed to be on the sides of the A4? Because now when I’m printing it leaves some space under every page and doesn’t fill it properly.
Hi Askeli, our patterns are formatted for both US Letter and A4, so as long as you’re printing out at 100% scale, it’s ok if there’s some unprinted space outside of the frame.
I am looking forward to seeing this dress! I have the pattern pieces prepared but I’m wondering if there is a cutting layout somewhere I missed?
Hi Elizabeth! Unfortunately we don’t provide pattern cutting layouts at this time. But if the though of folding on the bias is intimidating, you can print out another copy of the pattern so that you’ve got a complete front and back, instead of cutting on the fold. Then just lay your fabric flat, and cut on the bias (instead of folded bias).
When cutting on the bias, use the diagonal grainline and place it parallel to the selvedge, measuring between the two to make sure its the same distance at all points. This will help you stay on the true bias!
I have a stretch chiffon that I am struggling to figure out what I want to make out of it… do you think this pattern would be a good fit?
Hi Emma, we’re sorry for the delay in responding to your question! We get dozens of comments and questions each day, and so many questions get buried and, unfortunately, unanswered. We are now focusing user support on patterns 2 years and newer. We hope this will prevent questions on our more current patterns from going unanswered. Although this is late, we wanted to respond in case anyone else has the same question: Yes, that would work well! Because of the stretch, you may need to adjust the size though.
I am very confused about the instruction to cut the front and back pieces on the bias as well as on the fold. Other sources I have found say that it is impossible to cut bias pattern pieces on the fold. Is this an error in instruction or is there a specific technique to do this?
Hi Nina, we’re sorry for the delay in responding to your question! We get dozens of comments and questions each day, and so many questions get buried and, unfortunately, unanswered. We are now focusing user support on patterns 2 years and newer. We hope this will prevent questions on our more current patterns from going unanswered. Although this is late, we wanted to respond in case anyone else has the same question: It is possible to cut this pattern on the bias as long as you fold very carefully. But you can definitely revise the pattern piece so it’s cut as 1 flat instead of on the fold.
Hi there! Im a bit of a newbie :). So far I have been able to cut out the fabric on the bias. I’m just confused about the smaller pieces for the front and the back. How do they go onto the bigger pieces? Do they roll up and make the bias neckline? Do they attack inside the larger pieces at the top? ahh XD
Hi Kathy, we’re sorry for the delay in responding to your question! We get dozens of comments and questions each day, and so many questions get buried and, unfortunately, unanswered. We are now focusing user support on patterns 2 years and newer. We hope this will prevent questions on our more current patterns from going unanswered. Although this is late, we wanted to respond in case anyone else has the same question: The facing pieces aren’t cut on the bias. Sew them RST (right sides together) at along their side seams. Then sew the dress RST at the side seams. As pictured in the illustration, place the facing and dress RST, sandwiching the straps in between the two layers, and sew.
Really like this pattern! I think it might be a bit confusing for a beginner because the instructions are bare bones, but there are lots of tutorials online to fill in the gaps. I took some extra steps to elevate the final garment: I did french seams, properly finished the bottom of the facing, understitched the neckline and added strap hooks. Thanks for the free pattern!
Hi Elisabeth,
Thanks a lot for this free pattern. This bias dress looks very nice.
Now, because I’m french, I’m not very confident with the size chart. Could you please tell me witch size is ok for my 92 cm full bust ? knowing I don’t like to be tight.
Hi Brigitte! It looks like a size 8 would fit best. Because it’s cut on the bias, it will hug you, but it shouldn’t be tight.
The front facing piece… in the finished photo is straight across the bottom. But the piece I cut has a v shape at the chest. Did I miss something?
Hi Amanda, we’re sorry for the delay in responding to your question! We get dozens of comments and questions each day, and so many questions get buried and, unfortunately, unanswered. Although this is late, we wanted to respond in case anyone else has the same question: There may have been a revision made after these illustrations were created. You have the correct pattern piece!
Thank you for providing free patterns! I love free patterns, especially when I only plan to make something once. I’m printing the pieces as I type to make this into a full slip to wear under a new dress I just got that is so cute, but slightly shorter and lighter than I anticipated. I’m going to cut the neckline straight across on this instead of the V, then add a short lace-trimmed ruffle at the bottom to peek out. Can’t wait to see the finished product! Thank you!
Would this be a good pattern to make a slip?
Yes, this would be perfect
Thanks so much!
That’s what I’m doing as I type! I have the side seams done, and it’s on my form to rest for awhile. I’m using some lightweight cotton batiste from my stash, as well as some vintage embroidered lace trim. Hoping it turns out like my mind sees it!
Hey there – I’ve been trying to figure out what fabrics would work for this dress. Did you try the cotton batiste and if so, how’d it turn out? <3
Any update? I’ve been trying to figure out what the best kind of fabric would be for this dress.
Silk satin, rayon challis, crepe, tencel, and silk charmeuse.
Love this pattern but upon printing and putting together the pattern i realise i need it to be longer (more a midi length than knee length). Do you have any recomendation for how to lengthen the dress while retaining the draping and intended shape.
Hello Saskia, to lengthen the pattern, use pattern paper to add onto the bottom of the pattern. Use a ruler to extend down at the side seams to your desired length. Use a french ruler to curve the shape at the bottom hem.
should the facing also be cut on the bias or straight grain .
Hello, the facing should also be cut on the bias
Hi, this is my first time doing one of your patterns. I want to know if the 1/2″ seam allowance is included in the pattern or do I have to added it when cutting the fabric.
Hello, all of our patterns have 1/2″ seam allowance included.
If we wanted this longer, where would you lengthen? Thank you!
Hello, you an add length to the bottom of the pattern by adding additional pattern paper.
love this pattern. Can I use 35″ width silk and sew it together to make double width before cutting out the pattern? Thank you.
Yes, sewing the 2 panels before cutting the pattern can also work
Hi team, I love this pattern, its just what I am looking for, but when I signed up the link provided to the pattern doesnt work. Can you please provide a new link?
Hello, please check your spam or promotion folders in your email. If you are still having trouble receiving the pattern download, you can send an email to info@moodfabrics.com.
Is there another way to print out the pattern or is it just for a4? I’m using letter sized paper for my printer
Hello, our free sewing patterns are available with all sizes in PDF format for A4 and letter-size printing.