Based on a look from Helen Castillo’s Fall 2022 Collection in collaboration with Mood Fabrics, the Heywood Blazer sewing pattern is all gorgeous statement sleeves and sleek lines. With no closures to worry about, this pattern is simple to sew and even easier to style. Create yours with our Stratton Twill Collection and premium lining or pair it with our Heywood Blazer Sewing Kit to make things easy!
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Mood Fabrics x Helen Castillo Fall 2022 Collection
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 3-4 yards Stratton Hibiscus Solid Organic Cotton Twill
- 3-4 yards Italian Red Bi-Color Ladybug Jacquard Lining
- 1 pair Foam Shoulder Pads Covered with White Polyester – 7″ x 4.5″ x .5″
- MDF289 – The Heywood Blazer Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
Alternative Recommended Fabrics:
This jacket is an advanced sewing project; consider making a fit-muslin first to ensure you are happy with the fit.
Starting with the front and back body pieces, sew your back darts and bust darts, pressing the back darts towards the center back and your bust darts down toward the hem. Note: Most seam allowances are 3/8″ unless otherwise indicated
Join front and back at the shoulders and side seams, pressing the seam allowances open.
Sleeves:
Each sleeve has two panels; be sure to notch and join the corresponding pieces for either sleeve and set into the armhole of the jacket.
Optional: Cut a set of the sleeve patterns in interfacing to help support this couture-inspired shape when using lighter weight self fabrics such as light-weight suiting or a cotton sateen.
Use a tailor’s ham to press the curve in the sleeves, the seam allowances pressed open will help reinforce the shape.
Optional: Consider topstitching the seam allowances or adding a trim of horsehair braid or grosgrain ribbon by hand tacking to the seam allowances for added strength to the silhouette
When setting in the sleeves, there is no gathering cape-ease for this piece.
Consider a shoulder pad tacked to the sleeve cap seam allowance for added structure. You can also tack to the shoulder seam allowance to keep the shoulder pad in place.
Cut your facings, back neck, and front facings with right sides together. Joining them at the shoulder seam and press your seam allowances open.
Align the facing to the neckline of the jacket with right sides facing. Aligning at center back, shoulder seams. The hem edges won’t meet because this style jacket is a pattern made to have the hem turned up to cover that bottom edge of the facing.
Understitch by pressing both seam allowances toward the facing and stitching 1/16” from the original stitch line, ONTO the seam allowances. This will catch both seam allowances and the facing.
Press your facing edge to reinforce the understitch, consider using a piece of muslin as a pressing cloth to protect your self-fabric from being singed or damaged.
Use a tailor’s ham to press the curved areas of the neckline to reinforce that shape.
Repeat your sewing steps for the lining by joining the sleeves to the main body, then attach your sleeve hems to one another right sides facing, turn up your hems and slip stitch to finish.
