Some trends are vibrant and loud, taking the stage when worked into an outfit. Others are versatile and timeless, with the ability to transform themselves for any style or look. The bias-cut skirt is the latter, and every one needs at least one in their wardrobe. With simple seams and elegant lines, our Indigo Skirt free sewing pattern is designed to let the fabric do all the work. Choose your favorite silk print like we did, or opt for a chic solid charmeuse!
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 2 yards Italian Pink, Orange and Blue Painterly Floral Digitally Printed Silk Charmeuse
- Note: For directional prints or sizes above 10, you may want to get an extra yard.
- 1 yard 1″ Black Elastic
- MDF192 – The Indigo Skirt Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
Alternative Recommended Fabrics:
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
A bias-cut skirt is one of the easiest garments to put together, so you’re bound to start adding a few of these to your wardrobe after this!
First, make sure your grainline follows the guide on your pattern when you cut your pattern pieces, or your skirt will not have the flowy fullness at the bottom that’s typically seen in a skirt like this.
Before we start, it’s important to note that I cut two of the back panel in order to save some fabric as this print isn’t particularly directional. If you do this, be sure to add seam allowance to what will become the center back seam.
Begin by attaching your two back skirt pieces at the straight center back seam, like you see above. I recommend using French seams here to hide your raw edges. (Note: If you cut your back panel on the fold, you can skip this step.)
Lightly press your seam, and then attach your front skirt panel to the back at the side seams. Again, I recommend French seams. Lightly press your side seams as well.
Your skirt is beginning to take shape already!
To form your waistband, fold the top edge of your skirt inward 1/4″ toward the wrong side of the garment and lightly press. Fold the top down again another inch (or however wide your elastic is).
Pin into place and edge-stitch along the bottom fold of what is now the waistband casing. Cut a piece of elastic that’s 1″-2″ shorter than your waist measurement. Carefully seam rip a portion of the center back seam on the inside of your waistband and feed the elastic through the casing. Sew the ends of the elastic together once it’s fully through and then slip-stitch the waistband closed.
Lastly, hem your skirt with a 1/4″ rolled hem and the garment is ready to wear!
66 comments
It would be much simpler to leave a small portion of the back seam open for elastic insertion instead of chancing a tear at a point that repair is extremely difficult! Lovely skirt, I can’t wait to try it.
Lovely pattern, easy to sew in a few hours , it works great with the sewing planner, to make in 2 evenings before i take the plunge with another more complex pattern , would you please tell me if the printed pattern includes the seams allowances? For the perfect fit , as i am in between 2 sizes between waist and hips thank you in advance
Yes, the pattern includes a 1/2″ seam allowance. 🙂
Thanks for these free patterns makes learning to sew so much easier and fun looking forward to try new designs
Would this pattern also work with a heavier fabric like wool?
Hi there! I haven’t tried it with a wool yet, but I think it would work with some lightweight wool like crepe or suiting! 🙂
How many panels do you cut? Is it one front piece and one back piece?
Hi Laurie, the front is one piece and the back is two. 🙂
the cutting layout gives 2 panels to cut. You say 3? Do you halve one for the back? Is not clear..
I mention the edits I made to the pattern to cut 2 panels for the back in order to save fabric in the post above. 🙂
I should cut the pattern three times then? Could the skirt still work with just 2 panels (a front and back) of the same size?
Yes, you could do just two, but you’d need more fabric since the skirt panel needs to be cut on the bias.
What does cut on the bias mean? Also would you say this skirt is beginner friendly? As in never sewn a single thing before beginner?
Hi Edie! Cutting a pattern piece on the bias means it’s placed at a 45 degree angle to the selvage. There are lines on the pattern piece depicting where the grainline should be to help you out. 🙂 This skirt is pretty simple to sew, but the usual fabric options such as charmeuse and satin can be kinda tricky.
Thank you, Courtney. Your instructions are super clear. And what a gorgeous skirt. :O
Can you also use this pattern cut on grain?
Hi Cindy! You could, but it would lose the slightly flared fullness that you get when you cut it on the bias.
Simple quick pattern, cannot wait to make it. Thank you!
I love the look of this skirt, but I think the sizing might be off.
It looks like it sits on the natural waist, but a size 0/2 is coming out with 34″ waist, The pattern is printed to size correctly, but the pieces are just way too wide.
Hi Kim! Since this is a pull on skirt, the waist needs to be wide enough to fit over the hips – for a 0/2, that’s about 34″. The elastic that goes into the waistband is what cinches it to your waist size.
Can this be made with a knit fabric?
Yes, it can! 🙂
hi
ive just started sewing. im really enjoying it. MY waist size has growm and all my favourite clothes are tight so Ive had to adjust them where I can. This is a great pattern. I will also be playing and singing along in my fake girl band whilst sewing. Thanksxx
Thank you very much for your free patterns. It’s quite hard to find good ones, without all the advertisements and risks of viruses. I appreciate your community spirit and will recommend your site to my friends. 🙂 xx
is it possible to add pockets to the design?
Hi Mourvarid! We have a tutorial for how to add in-seam pockets here. Hope it helps! 🙂
Would this work with gabardine? (Thinking a lined gabardine skirt for the oncoming New England winter.)
Hi Deborah! Yes, that should work well. 🙂
But with the thinner fabric wouldn’t that mess with the shape? I’m pro-pockets but would that work here?
With something thin like charmeuse, it may. I’d recommend adding pockets only if using a thicker fabric.
Hi Courtney since the skirt is 2 panels can I add a side zipper and facing instead of elastic?
Hi Tondani! You could, but you’d need to take in the waist to account for no longer needing the stretch there. I’d recommend trying it out on muslin first. 🙂
Thank you so much Courtney
hi! i love this skirt so much! i was wondering if i would be able to use rayon satin with this pattern? thanks 🙂
Yes, that would likely drape very well!
Okay so storytime: Modcloth has a skirt that’s very similar but not in my size. I’m really sad about it but I went on here and downloaded this pattern and now will be making this skirt for half the price. Thank you so much for making these patterns accessible in a world where fashion feels really inaccessible to me at times.
Is this skirt highwasted?
Yes, it is! 🙂
Love this pattern! I’ve already made it twice. I shortened the length about 4 inches. It’s my new fav! Thank you.
Wow, Zina! What fabrics did you use? I’ve been thinking of doing one with two layers- a silky print with a chiffon overlay.
Great pattern and soooo easy! I’ll be making this many more times!
Hey Courtney, Awesome dress and pattern. Will it be possible to use this pattern and simply add an elastic waistband? Or will I need to make the garment a little bigger so it can be worn with an elastic waistband?
Hi James! This pattern already includes an elastic waistband. 🙂
Hi! I was wondering if you use a stretch fabric can it be cut on the straight grain instead of the bias?
Hi Tati! This skirt can certainly be cut on-grain and be made with a stretch fabric, but may have less flare and be more of a straight silhouette. 😀
hi i am a beginner at sewing. i can see you need charmeuse/silk/satin to get that beautiful drape but i am worried this fabric is outside my sewing ability. is there any other fabric you recommend instead?
Hi Katie! If you are concerned about using silk, you can try a polyester variety of satin or charmeuse. 😀
Hi ! The pattern looks as if it is specifically for a shorter skirt. Can I simply extend the pattern to make an ankle-length skirt ?
Hi Leandri! Yes, I think that would work perfectly. 😀
Thank you ! I’m going to try ! =)
I’ve just finished making one for myself in champagne viscose satin. I had to alter the pattern a bit because of the big difference between waist and hips measurments but the garment came out extremely flattering! Thank you for your hard work and sharing this lovely slip skirt pattern with us for free 🙂
Could you place a zip in the back seam if the fabric doesn’t have a stretch to it? Rather than elastic? How might you suggest that? I’d love to try and put a waist band in, but not sure!
Hi! The skirt was drafted for non stretch fabric to be cut on the bias. So as long as you cut on the bias, you don’t need stretch fabric! But if you still want to put a zipper in, I suggest sewing it into the side seam.
can a serger be used instead of French seams
Hi Erin! Yes, you can use a serger!
Is the recommended fabric breathable? I live in Hawaii and need something fairly lightweight.
Hi Jill, the fabric used for this project is 100% silk, which makes it a suitable choice for warm climates. Linen would also be an excellent choice!
hello, i made this skirt last night for my daughter and myself. the fabric on the side seams bends in a little. i cut on the bias and i was very careful with the second skirt when i saw what happened. Also, is it two panels but if you saving money then you cut the back panel in two halves. im sorry but i am a bit confused. at the end, is it one panel in the front and one at the back unless you cut the back panel in half?
Hi Michele, a few possible causes for the bending side seam: The fabric wasn’t laying properly when cut, it stretched as it was being sewn (even the slightest stretch on the bias can throw the shape off!), or the tension on the machine wasn’t quite right. Next time I suggest sewing stay stitches on each seamline first. Then lay the pieces flat, and compare to the original pattern to make sure the fabric hasn’t been distorted.
You can cut the back panel in two halves, but that leaves more room for error with being cut on the bias. I strongly suggest keeping the skirt in 2 pieces – 1 front and 1 back.
I got super excited to use my lilac satin for this skirt… and it came out completely shapeless 🙁 what a shame
I didn’t not see the link to the pattern
Hi Amanda, if you’re still having trouble downloading the pattern, email [email protected] and they’ll send the pattern directly to you!
Gorgeous pattern, Thank you! Could you let me know what are the printer settings for it?
Hi Nelly, just print at actual size or 100% on US Letter or A4 paper!
Hi. Can you use scuba crepe to make this skirt?
Hi Keveena, I’m not sure that I’d recommend scuba crepe if it has stretch in it. If you decide to give it a try, I suggest cutting on the crossgrain instead of the bias. You might also need to adjust the size.