Sometimes you just need to play around with a classic silhouette. Everyone loves a good moto jacket; to the point where labels like Moschino essentially made their entire newest collection based around them. (I’m a little obsessed with it.) Rather than go with your typical leather or faux leather for this project, I decided to go in possibly the most opposite direction I could: silk. The results are beyond stunning; Mood’s silk wool lays beautifully and has a gorgeous sheen in the light, while the silk charmeuse lining I chose gives a lovely pop of contrast and is beyond comfortable to wear.
(I’m also wearing my Ginkgo Shirt, which I previously made here!)
Fabrics & materials used:
- 2 yards Salmon, Red and Green Floral Printed Silk Charmeuse
- 3 yards Mallard Blue Silk Wool
- Dritz Grommet Plier Kit
- 1 pkg Dritz Nickel Grommets
- 1 Metal Separating Zipper
- 1 Lampo Black and Gunmetal 2-Way Closed Ended Zipper
- 1 pkg Brass/Black Heavy Duty Snaps
- Dritz Snap Fastener Plier Kit
- 2″ Antique Iron Metal Buckle
- 1 yard Black Single-Faced Fusible Interfacing
- MDF037 – The Kalimeris Moto Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated.
I started with the lining, which luckily goes together pretty easily. When sewing with the charmeuse, I recommend using some Microtex needles to avoid pulls.
Begin by attaching the neckline facing to the the center back lining, like you see above. Press the seam allowances downward.
For the rest of the lining, you’ll want to press the seams flat to either side, like above. Sew the side back lining panels to each side of the center back, and then attach the side front panels to the lapel facings like you can see below.
Sew both of your front lining pieces to the back at the shoulders and side seams.
Form your sleeves, aligning the upper and lower sleeve panels at their corresponding seams. Attach each to the armholes of your jacket lining, matching up the notches. Set your lining aside, and get excited to start on the main jacket!
I started with the front, since that’s where most of the work is. You’ll be attaching the side front panels to the front lapels first, but one of them will need one half of your separating zipper inserted into it first. Once the panels are sewn together, fold back the seam allowance and edge-stitch.
Next, we’ll add pockets! Trace the pocket rectangle from your pattern onto your side front panel and pockets. Fabric faces together, place your pocket over your jacket, lining up the rectangles. Stitch around the rectangle, through both layers.
Cut a slit through the center of the rectangle, and out towards the corners, like above. Pull the pocket through the slit to the inside of the garment and press.
I found this amazing zipper and knew I wanted to use it for the pockets on this project. It’s 10″ long, a bit too big for what I wanted, so I got one and cut it in half instead. Since it had two pulls, I now had two zippers!
Which ever 5″ zipper you use, place it inside the rectangle you just made and top-stitch it into place. Fold your pocket lining in half and sew along the three raw edges to close it. Pocket complete!
Next, form the back of your jacket. To attach the upper and lower center back panels, sew along one edge like above, notch the seam allowance at the point and then sew the second edge.
Press the seam allowance upwards and edge-stitch. Add your side back panels before attaching your back yoke. All seams can then be pressed and stitched down.
Now, shoulder tabs! Pair off your 4 pieces and sew them with the fabric faces together, leaving the shorter flat edge open. Pull them right-side out and press. Edge-stitch around the sewn sides and then add the top part of some heavy duty snaps.
Attach the fronts and back of your jacket together at the shoulders and sides, and then stay-stitch each tab to a shoulder seam, like below. Right beneath the upper snap, add the other half of each snap to the jacket shoulder.
Interface one of your collar panels and then sew both panels with the faces together, leaving the curvy edge raw. Turn it right-side out, press, and edge-stitch just as you did with the tabs. Attach to the neckline of your jacket, matching up the notches on your pattern.
Add the second half of your separating zipper to the edge of the corresponding lapel, like below.
Fold your collar, sleeves, and zipper inward, and pin your lining to your jacket with the faces touching. Sew along the lapels, neckline, and hem (leaving a small section open somewhere to pull the garment right-side out.
Pull your sleeves through the opening and sew the lining to the jacket, right sides together. Or, if it’s a bit easier, pin them when you try the garment on and slip-stitch instead.
Add snaps to each corner of your collar and lapels before slip-stitching the last section of your lining to your jacket. Edge-stitch around the hem, lapels, and neckline.
Next, interface your five belt loops and press the raw edges toward the back. Top-stitch and insert snaps to create the loops. Sew them at the center back, side seams, and lapel seams of your jacket.
Lastly, interface your belt pieces and sew along three of the edges, placing the faces together. Leave open one of the shorter edges to pull it right-side out, press, and edge-stitch. Insert a grommet about 4″ from one end and add your belt buckle, hand-sewing it into place. Reinforce with your machine if necessary.
At the other end, insert 3-4 more grommets every inch or so, according to your desired fit.
Loop your belt through the loops and pair it with your favorite spring ensemble!
I’m super curious to hear what colors and fabrics you’ll be using to make your own version! Will you try a timeless black leather moto look, or do you like the unconventional silk option? Let me know in the comments!