If you haven’t started planning your Spring wardrobe yet, now’s the time! With hopes of warmer days ahead, we have a lovely new pattern that will have you ready to step out into the sunshine in no time! The Kalmia Jacket has a beautiful silhouette which, includes a stunning shawl collar, belted waist and flared skirt bottom. For our jacket, we are featuring two amazing options from Mood Fabrics’ new Exclusive Harvest Collection: a smooth sateen and a jaw-dropping jacquard. These prints will look amazing as you transition into a new season full of color and warmth, or opt for a removable faux fur collar for an extra layer against the unpredictable NY weather!
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 5 yards of Mood Exclusive Eternal Rockwell Stretch Paisley Jacquard
- 1.5 yards of Mood Exclusive Eternal Rockwell Stretch Cotton Sateen
- 3 yards of Lustro Medium Gray Twill Bemberg Lining
- MDF115 – The Kalmia Jacket Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
Here’s how to sew:
The first step is to close all darts on the front and back pattern pieces.
Attach the collar facings to the collar. Turn and press seam allowance.
Once your collar facing and the collar is done, you can pin it to the neck opening then stitch in place.
Attach the front bodice to the back at the side and shoulder seams. Press and set aside.
Pin sleeves to the bodice, stitch and set in.
Now we are going to work on the skirt portion of our jacket. Let’s put in the double welt pockets first. Transfer pocket placement markings onto the wrong sides of your skirt and pocket pieces.
Apply a piece of fusible to the pocket opening. With wrong sides of the fabric together, align your pocket with the markings on your skirt, pin and stitch in place.
Apply fusible to your welt pieces for stability.
On the right side of your skirt, fold each welt and place them over your pocket marking as shown. Stitch over your welt pieces in the shape of your pocket opening.
Turn welts in through the opening making sure the corners are straight and sharp. Top stitch along the outside of the pocket opening. Press welts flat.
Fold pocket in half creating the pocket bag and stitch along the top, side, and bottom to close.
Let’s continue to work on the skirt portion. Pin the skirt backs together at the CB seam and stitch into place. Press seams flat.
Next, pin the skirt fronts to the back at the side seams and stitch. Press seams flat.
Next, pin the top of the jacket to the bottom skirt portion and stitch. Press all seams open and flat.
Before adding in your lining, attach the belt loops to the waist.
With right sides of the fabric together, stitch your belt together at the center back seam. Press the seam allowance. Fold your belt in half along the length and stitch leaving a small 3-4″ opening in the center to turn it right side out.
Clip your belt and trim off excess seam allowance before turning. Press when done.
Follow the same steps for sewing your lining. Once your lining is done, press it neatly and set it aside. Adding shoulder pads is totally optional but I like the added support they provide. If you decide to use them, add them in now before setting in your lining.
Set in your lining attaching at the cuff openings, facings, and bottom edge. Make sure to leave a small 6″ opening at the bottom edge to turncoat right side out. Press and slip stitch bottom opening closed.
That’s it! You’re done! Be sure to let how you plan to wear your Kalmia jacket!