Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 1 yard Italian Black Blended Wool Twill
- 1 yard Italian Blueberry and Charcoal Plaid Wool Suiting
- MDF235 – The Layton Bolero Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
Cut your Bolero pattern pieces: Front cut 2, Back cut 2 (or fold back the center back seam allowance ½” and cut on the fold). Attach ‘Side Panel’ to ‘Sleeve Gusset’ along the curved seam, making sure to align notches, clip seam allowance, and press open.
Pictured will represent your sewing line where you will attach the Side Panel (side gusset) in to the extension line marked in chalk with right sides together (there is no front and back edge of the gusset inserts so you can choose to begin attaching to Front bolero or Back bolero first).
Pin the Side Panel along the hem to the hem location of the front or back of Bolero, you will repeat for the front or back bodice of the Bolero depending on which side you attach to first, you will repeat this step for each ‘side panel’ to its corresponding bodice side location:
Begin by attaching the Side Panel of the gusset where the SEAM LINE of ‘Side Panel’ and ‘Sleeve Gusset’ meet. Push the seam allowance up so that you can drop your needle at the machine flush against that seam stitching and sew down towards the hem of Bolero:
After you have attached that area of the Side Gusset to the side area of the bodice (this step will be repeated for all 4 side areas of the bodice), you will clip to within 1/16”-1/8″ of where your stitch line began. In the picture below you will see where the angle is being cut and this location is indicated on the pattern:
Now you will have released in that corner area so you can attach the Sleeve Gusset to its corresponding sleeve seam. Repeat for each Sleeve Gusset to sleeve seam placing right sides together to achieve. You will repeat this process as above but working from the other side of the Gusset’s seam allowances and sewing towards the hem of the sleeve, be sure to manipulate the fabric to lay flat as you join – it may be easier to see what area you are sewing from the bodice side when joining Sleeve Gusset to sleeve area.
Once your gussets are attached to either side of the Bolero (front and back bodice), you will sew the shoulder seams joining Front and Back with right sides together.
Attaching Bolero lining/Attaching second shell fabric to make reversible:
With self Bolero and Lining Bolero, begin by pinning necklines, center fronts, and hemline until the Side Panel seam allowance and sew closed with 1/2″ seam allowance.
When coming to corner or squared areas of the neckline, be sure to back-tack and reinforce those corners as you will trim them after sewing.
*You may want to mark the 1/2″ seam allowance distances at your squared seam areas to ensure they are symmetrical down your center front so when you wear the garment it looks even.
You can begin sewing from your side panel seam allowance in order to hide your back-tack stitch in that area, continue to the opposite side panel seam allowance area.
Once you have attached these areas, clip the neckline seam allowance to release tension so it will press flat when flipped right side out.
Optional: Understitch your seam allowances to your inside layer 1/8″ from the stitch line (ON TO THE SEAM ALLOWANCE) to ensure the neckline and the center front will lay flat and clean.
Clip all seam allowances at angled seams to allow for those areas to have clean angles from the right side of the garment.
Understitch areas that you want to lay flatter by attaching both seam allowances to the lining/inside layer of fabric.
Flip your Bolero right side out and place the sleeves inside each other with wrong sides facing, place a safety pin to attach both Boleros by aligning the shoulder seams:
Where you have pinned those two seam allowances together at the SHOULDER SEAMS turn those so they are right sides facing and replace the safety pin INSIDE the sleeve, so it can be pulled from inside the garment and sleeves be attached at their hems with RIGHT SIDES FACING:
Place your hand up in to the unattached hem BETWEEN both layers of the Bolero and pull the pinned sleeves so they are inside out, repeat for other sleeve:
Pin both sleeves to one another with right sides facing, and sew with 1/2″ seam allowance, repeat for other sleeve:
Once sleeves are attached to one another you can understitch at this point or turn them to be right sides out, this will be fully lined or fully reversible so be sure you push one layer of Bolero into the other at the sleeves. At this point, you can press.
The last step is to finish your hem, as pictured below you can mark 1” from the bottom raw edge of the hem and press up 1/2″ (your raw edge of hem will automatically be 1/2″ as it meets that 1” mark:
You can make an invisible stitch by catching 1/8″ above the folded edge of the hem INSIDE the seam allowance and catch the opposite fabric, be sure to pin those two hems to one another before hemming so they are aligned.
4 comments
Beautiful!
Love the inclusion of line drawings, but this particular one shows a cutaway front that the actual pattern doesn’t.
There is an optional cut line on the front piece for the more angled cutaway. You should see it on page 7. 🙂
Wonderful pattern. Super easy, took me 2 days. Thank you!