Trench coats have long been a wardrobe staple for spring, but this year they’re (literally) bigger than ever. Oversized and exaggerated seems to be the theme of the season when it comes to trench silhouettes, and since it works for all genders, we’re game. The Lita Unisex Trench can be worn relaxed and open to show off a pop lining or cinched at the waist for a little more definition. However you decide to style yours, be sure to check out Mood’s water-repellent twill and canvas for every color imaginable!
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 4 yards Italian Kentucky Blue Water Repellent Canvas
- 3 yards Mood Exclusive Off-White Erudite Architecture Stretch Brushed Cotton Twill
- 1 Italian Extra Large Sedona Sage Plastic Release Buckle
- 12 Gray Plastic Button – 44L/28mm
- MDF238 – The Lita Unisex Trench Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
Alternative Recommended Fabrics:
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
Step 1
First, fold your sleeve tabs in half, face to face, and stitch along one long side and one short side. Clip the seam allowance at the corner, turn right side out, and press. Top-stitch around the edges of the sewn and folded sides.
Step 2
Following the guide on your pattern, pin the tab at the outer seam edge of your back sleeve panel. Pin the corresponding front sleeve panels over top, pinning the front and back together face to face with the tab in between. Sew up the outer seam, press the seam open, and top-stitch the seam allowance down.
Step 3
Create the lining for each of your sleeves the same way, minus the tab.
Step 4
Following the guide on your pattern again, place two buttons on your back sleeve panel: one just beneath the end of the sleeve tab and one just past it. Sew a corresponding buttonhole toward the end of your sleeve tab.
Step 5
Sew up the inseam of your sleeve and lining and press each seam open.
Step 6
Attach the front panels of your coat to the back at the side seams. Press the seams open and stitch the seam allowance down.
Step 7
Your lining can be created similarly, with one extra step: sew the front facing to the front lining, press the seam allowance toward the lining, and stitch.
Step 8
Create your rain guard, sewing them face to face. Clip the seam allowance at the corner, turn right side out, press, and top-stitch.
Step 9
Pin the guard along the face of your front lining, either on the side you prefer or on both sides if you made two.
Step 10
Pin the corresponding sleeve over top along each armscye, face to face, and sew.
Step 11
Repeat with your lining, minus the rain guard.
Step 12
Create your collar the same way you did your rain guard: sew face to face, clip the corners, turn right side out, and press.
Step 13
Separately, hem the bottom edges of your jacket’s main layer and lining. Pin the collar along the neckline of the main layer, aligning the center back, and then pin the lining overtop so the collar is pointed downward and sandwiched in between. With the lining and main layer face to face, sew along the center front, lapel, and neckline. Clip the corners, turn right side out, and press.
Step 14
Once right side out and pressed, top-stitch around the edges of the center front, lapel, and collar.
Step 15
At this point, your jacket is taking shape! Slip-stitch the sleeve lining to your sleeves, add your buttons and corresponding buttonholes and it’s nearly ready to wear.
Although the pattern doesn’t include them, I’d recommend adding a few belt loops at the waist of your trench.
Step 16
The belt goes together the exact same way as your sleeve tabs, just on a larger scale. Once right side out and pressed, slip the unfinished end through the buckle. Double fold the raw edge inward and stitch into place. The clip of the buckle simply slips on like a seat belt.
The coat pattern includes side pockets. Are there instructions for putting them in?
Hi, Libby! There’s a great tutorial for inserting side seam pockets here. 🙂
These instructions are lazy how do I add the sleeves ? At what point do I add pockets ??
Hello!
Thank you for your feedback. Most of the instructions on our 350+ patterns, especially these older ones, do reflect their no-cost nature. Unfortunately we can’t update the instructions on every pattern in our archive, especially if they are over 2 years old. We encourage you to look up video tutorials for specific issues you might be running into. “Raglan Sleeves” are a common style for outerwear! As for the pockets, the pockets get added before the front and back jacket pieces are assembled. Here is a guide on how to add your inseam pocket.
Harikasını mükemmel anlatım çok teşekkürler
teşekkür ederim, mutlu dikişler!
Would it work without a lining using bias strips on the inside seams?
Hi Kellie! You can probably skip the lining for a lot of the coat, but we suggest lining at least the front facings for a clean look. 😀
Does it come in men’s sizes?
Hi, Robert! This is a unisex pattern. 🙂
Could I use fleece? I own a fleece unstructured coat lined w/ waterproof fabric that allows it to be reversible. I’m feeling experimental.
Hi TV! That’s a tough question – you theoretically could but it may be too bulky, depending on your fleece. We also have the Bellis Coat, which has a similar silhouette and is drafted for heavier fabrics! 😀
Is there a table that has the finished measurements for this pattern? It definitely helps in choosing the right size when it’s unisex. Thanks in advanced 🙂
Hello Rotch, we’re sorry for the delay in responding to your question! We get dozens of comments and questions each day, and so many questions get buried and, unfortunately, unanswered. We are now focusing user support on patterns 2 years and newer. We hope this will prevent questions on our more current patterns from going unanswered. Although this is late, we wanted to respond in case anyone else has the same question: Our older patterns unfortunately don’t have finished garment measurements. But use our size chart to find your size, and then take a few quick measurements of the pattern to determine your desired ease.
Are there any websites that use a pattern similar to this to use the instructions of?
Hello, is there a video tutorial for this pattern?
Hi Isabel, unfortunately we don’t currently offer video tutorials for our free patterns.
Where are the instructions ?? At what point do I add the sleeves and pockets .
Hello Jaiden,
Most of the instructions on our 350+ patterns, especially these older ones, do reflect their no-cost nature. Unfortunately we can’t update the instructions on every pattern in our archive, especially if they are over 2 years old. We encourage you to look up video tutorials for specific issues you might be running into. “Raglan Sleeves” are a common style for outerwear! As for the pockets, the pockets get added before the front and back jacket pieces are assembled. Here is a guide on how to add your inseam pocket.
This coat is extremely oversized. Made an XS based on my daughter’s measurements and it is huge. Highly recommend making a muslin first to make sure you like the fit. I had to take several inches out to get it to be only slightly oversized.
Hello! We’re sorry you’re unhappy with the fit of this pattern. It’s important to remember that every individual’s body is unique, and a pattern will fit differently on different people. When creating these free patterns, we aim for a standard fit that works for a wide range of body types, but we understand it might not be perfect for everyone.
We always recommend making a muslin (or toile) first. It will allow you to assess fit and make necessary adjustments before cutting into your expensive fashion fabric.
Hi, whilst this doesn’t require a response I did just want to make people aware that this pattern does tend to fit quite large (I checked my measurements against the chart and ended up being a size smaller then expected!) so I would recommend making a mock up (or in my case using the lining as a mock up) to fully decide your size.
HOLA ,USTEDES CREEN QUE SE PUEDE USAR EL PATRON EN UNA TELA CUERINA? QUEDARIA BIEN?
Hola, una tela cuerina estaria bien para este patron.