Trench coats have long been a wardrobe staple for spring, but this year they’re (literally) bigger than ever. Oversized and exaggerated seems to be the theme of the season when it comes to trench silhouettes, and since it works for all genders, we’re game. The Lita Unisex Trench can be worn relaxed and open to show off a pop lining or cinched at the waist for a little more definition. However you decide to style yours, be sure to check out Mood’s water-repellent twill and canvas for every color imaginable!
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 4 yards Italian Kentucky Blue Water Repellent Canvas
- 3 yards Mood Exclusive Off-White Erudite Architecture Stretch Brushed Cotton Twill
- 1 Italian Extra Large Sedona Sage Plastic Release Buckle
- 12 Gray Plastic Button – 44L/28mm
- MDF238 – The Lita Unisex Trench Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
First, fold your sleeve tabs in half, face to face, and stitch along one long side and one short side. Clip the seam allowance at the corner, turn right side out, and press. Top-stitch around the edges of the sewn and folded sides.
Following the guide on your pattern, pin the tab at the outer seam edge of your back sleeve panel. Pin the corresponding front sleeve panels over top, pinning the front and back together face to face with the tab in between. Sew up the outer seam, press the seam open, and top-stitch the seam allowance down.
Create the lining for each of your sleeves the same way, minus the tab.
Following the guide on your pattern again, place two buttons on your back sleeve panel: one just beneath the end of the sleeve tab and one just past it. Sew a corresponding buttonhole toward the end of your sleeve tab.
Sew up the inseam of your sleeve and lining and press each seam open.
Attach the front panels of your coat to the back at the side seams. Press the seams open and stitch the seam allowance down.
Your lining can be created similarly, with one extra step: sew the front facing to the front lining, press the seam allowance toward the lining, and stitch.
Create your rain guard, sewing them face to face. Clip the seam allowance at the corner, turn right side out, press, and top-stitch.
Pin the guard along the face of your front lining, either on the side you prefer or on both sides if you made two.
Pin the corresponding sleeve over top along each armscye, face to face, and sew.
Repeat with your lining, minus the rain guard.
Create your collar the same way you did your rain guard: sew face to face, clip the corners, turn right side out, and press.
Separately, hem the bottom edges of your jacket’s main layer and lining. Pin the collar along the neckline of the main layer, aligning the center back, and then pin the lining overtop so the collar is pointed downward and sandwiched in between. With the lining and main layer face to face, sew along the center front, lapel, and neckline. Clip the corners, turn right side out, and press.
Once right side out and pressed, top-stitch around the edges of the center front, lapel, and collar.
At this point, your jacket is taking shape! Slip-stitch the sleeve lining to your sleeves, add your buttons and corresponding buttonholes and it’s nearly ready to wear.
Although the pattern doesn’t include them, I’d recommend adding a few belt loops at the waist of your trench.
The belt goes together the exact same way as your sleeve tabs, just on a larger scale. Once right side out and pressed, slip the unfinished end through the buckle. Double fold the raw edge inward and stitch into place. The clip of the buckle simply slips on like a seat belt.