We get it; wasting fabric is a drag. Luckily, Mood is here with yet another minimal waste sewing pattern! Give the Mal Dress a twirl with a vibrant print for spring or summer. It’s comfortable, chic, and has pockets! Its only waste comes between the sleeves and neckline, which can easily be turned into seam binding, a decorative applique, or saved for eco-friendly pillow stuffing!
Note: The layout for this pattern will vary depending on what size you select. The layout you see to the right was used for size 10, but you can also use the layout directly seen in the printed layout. If you choose this one to the right, you can also extend the skirt panels all the way to the selvage both for extra gathering and for less waste!
Note: French seams are used on the entire project. For alternative options, try using a serger, pinked edge, and or a bias bound edge to finish your seams.
1. Print, tape, and cut your pattern pieces.
2. Lay out pieces on fabric and cut out. If you want more gathers for tier 1, extend your pattern all the way to the edge of the fabric. Do the same to tier 2.
3. Using a French seam, pin the wrong sides of the back bodice together and stitch.
4. Next pin your front and back bodice together and stitch.
5. Sew the center front facing and center back facing at both center seams at ½’’ seam allowance and press.
6. Now sew the facings together. Once sewn, fold the edges under a ¼’’ and stitch.
7. Pin the facing to the bodice and sew at ½’’. Clip corners and press.
8. Pin the back of the sleeve together and sew.
9. Sew the underside of the sleeve and press. Once sewn, baste two rows of basting stitches.
10. Once the sleeve is sewn, fold up the bottom edge, ¼’’ then fold up again ½’’ and edge stitch, leaving an opening for the elastic. Once stitched, thread the elastic through and stitch down, then stitch the opening shut.
11. Next pin the sleeve to the bodice, matching side seams. Gather the top of the sleeve and stitch.
12. Take tier 1, place the pocket from the top and mark the bottom. Once that is marked, sew from your mark to the bottom using a French seam.
13. Pin pocket to tier 1 and sew a regular seam. Once sewn, press and then sew the outsides shut. After that, stitch two rows of basting stitches, leaving the pockets open at the top.
14. Gather the skirt to fit the bodice at side seams and pin. Once the gathers are adjusted evenly, pin the pocket piece.
15. Next, sew the bottom tier at the sides seam. Then fold up your hem ¼’’, then ½’’ and stitch.
16. Pin the second tier to the bottom of the first tier and stitch.
17. Lastly, trim the excess threads and press. Additionally, you could hand tack the facing to the shoulder seam if desired.