We get it; wasting fabric is a drag. Luckily, Mood is here with yet another minimal waste sewing pattern! Give the Mal Dress a twirl with a vibrant print for spring or summer. It’s comfortable, chic, and has pockets! Its only waste comes between the sleeves and neckline, which can easily be turned into seam binding, a decorative applique, or saved for eco-friendly pillow stuffing!
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 3-5 yards White, Orange and Green Citrus Medium Weight Linen Woven
- 1 yard .25″ Elastic
- MDF297 – The Mal Dress Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
Alternative Recommended Fabrics:
Note: The layout for this pattern will vary depending on what size you select. The layout you see to the right was used for size 10, but you can also use the layout directly seen in the printed layout. If you choose this one to the right, you can also extend the skirt panels all the way to the selvage both for extra gathering and for less waste!
Note: French seams are used on the entire project. For alternative options, try using a serger, pinked edge, and or a bias bound edge to finish your seams.
1. Print, tape, and cut your pattern pieces.
2. Lay out pieces on fabric and cut out. If you want more gathers for tier 1, extend your pattern all the way to the edge of the fabric. Do the same to tier 2.
3. Using a French seam, pin the wrong sides of the back bodice together and stitch.
4. Next pin your front and back bodice together and stitch.
5. Sew the center front facing and center back facing at both center seams at ½’’ seam allowance and press.
6. Now sew the facings together. Once sewn, fold the edges under a ¼’’ and stitch.
7. Pin the facing to the bodice and sew at ½’’. Clip corners and press.
8. Pin the back of the sleeve together and sew.
9. Sew the underside of the sleeve and press. Once sewn, baste two rows of basting stitches.
10. Once the sleeve is sewn, fold up the bottom edge, ¼’’ then fold up again ½’’ and edge stitch, leaving an opening for the elastic. Once stitched, thread the elastic through and stitch down, then stitch the opening shut.
11. Next pin the sleeve to the bodice, matching side seams. Gather the top of the sleeve and stitch.
12. Take tier 1, place the pocket from the top and mark the bottom. Once that is marked, sew from your mark to the bottom using a French seam.
13. Pin pocket to tier 1 and sew a regular seam. Once sewn, press and then sew the outsides shut. After that, stitch two rows of basting stitches, leaving the pockets open at the top.
14. Gather the skirt to fit the bodice at side seams and pin. Once the gathers are adjusted evenly, pin the pocket piece.
15. Next, sew the bottom tier at the sides seam. Then fold up your hem ¼’’, then ½’’ and stitch.
16. Pin the second tier to the bottom of the first tier and stitch.
17. Lastly, trim the excess threads and press. Additionally, you could hand tack the facing to the shoulder seam if desired.
26 comments
You can also save paper, ink, tape and time by not printing the pages for the pockets & skirt pieces. Mark the measurements on your fabric & cut.
All measurements are approximate.
*The pocket (G) is 8″x12″, cut 4 pieces; top notch is 1.5″ from the top edge and the lower notch is 6.5″ below the top notch.
*The skirt (F) ranges from 16″ – 30″ wide depending your waist size by 25″ long, cut 2 pieces on fold.
*The lower skirt (H) ranges from 32″ – 60″ wide depending on waist size by 18″ long, cut 4 or 2 pieces on fold.
Thank you Susan for the measurements. Since my pages don’t go to gather exactly, I was going to try and measure and not fiddle with the skirt pattern pieces. Barb
How many yards would I need to make this as a top for tucking into skirts and pants?
To calculate the yardage, print out the pattern pieces and measure them. Or, you can look at the pattern layout on page 1 of the download, and calculate the yardage based on the page size (8.5×11).
many thanks
if i was to use a stretchy jersey fabric are there any adjustments i should make like sizing down
Hi, Lucy! I think you’d be fine with a jersey, but I’d definitely size down. You may also want to interface the neckline so it keeps its square shape and doesn’t droop. 🙂
I actually have this same pattern from the 70’s vintage I think it was a simplicity? I was sad since I gained so much weight that I wouldn’t be able to wear the dress I made, it was back when they only made one size pattern. 🙁 Thank you for this, it’s almost an exact copy and I am happier because it looks like it has pockets!!!
this website is so easy for me
I am newly retired and taking up sewing. I’ve not made a garment since I was in school so starting with simple patterns and instructions. Can’t wait to get sewing this dress
Is there a video tutorial.for the Ma dress?
Hi Kate, we unfortunately don’t have a video tutorial for this dress, but we’re hoping to start doing more video tutorials in the future!
Update : finally started this dress. I’ve practiced French seams all day. Takes some getting used to wrong sides together, but wow how beautifully neat these seams are. I had thought of buying an overlocker but having been introduced to French seams ,don’t think I’ll bother.
Can’t wait to begin the actual dress
I am very disappointed that it only goes up to size32 or am I doing something wrong?
Hi Leslie, you are correct, this pattern goes up to a size 32. We are hoping to expand our sizes beyond that soon!
Hi! Thanks for the pattern! Instead of sewing four mirrored sleeve pieces, could I do two on the fold so as to not have a seam over the gathers?
Yes!
Wonderful, thank you!
I wanted to make this as a gift for a friend today but I cannot get the pattern to download. I have tried 7 times. Is there an alternate way to get the pattern? Thanks.
Hi Diana, we’re sorry for the late response! If you’re ever having trouble with downloading a pattern, email [email protected] and they’ll send the pattern to you!
Sorry I have a question, I am a bit confused, do the patterns include the 1 inch sean allowance or do I have to add it? Thank you 🙂
Hello, the patterns include 1/2″ seam allowance already accounted for, so you do not have to add anything.
I am an 8th grade student who wants to make a dress but I don’t know how to print the pattern off for it to be my size. Pls help!
Hi Savannah! After you download the pattern, print the very first page only. This is a great time to look at your printer settings to ensure they are properly set – print scale should be at 100% or “actual size”. There’s a test square on that first page, so go ahead and measure it to make sure the scale is correct. Once the test square is the right size, you’re good to go! Print out the rest of the pattern, match the pages by the corner markings, and tape the pattern. Since our patterns aren’t layered, I find it helpful to use a highlighter or marker to trace over the size I want to cut!
Here’s a helpful video explaining this process.
We always strongly encourage sewists to make a muslin first. This is basically a test garment, sewn with scrap fabric or muslin (some people even like to buy old sheets at the thrift store!). You don’t need to make it fancy, finish the seams, or even hem it. The purpose of a muslin is to ensure you’re happy with the sizing, fit, and the pattern before you cut into your special fabric! It’s also a good excuse to practice techniques that you might be unfamiliar with.
Good luck! If you have any questions we’re here to help! Happy sewing 🙂
Hi! I only received the a4 size to print, how can I get the letter size for the dress? Thank you!
Hi Elizabeth! Our patterns are formatted for both US Letter & A4. So as long as you’re printing at 100% scale, and your test square is measuring 2″, you’re good to go!