What’s the one never-be-without item in your wardrobe? For me, it’s the blazer. I’ve lovingly worn my two blazers for 15+ years now, and from the beginning they always proved to be the most useful and frequently worn items. The blazer is the perfect travel companion, the item that completes any outfit, or what stylishly takes you from work to date night. But as much as I endlessly love the classic blazer, what if we jazzed it up a bit? With our Marguerite Blazer Free Sewing Pattern, we’ve done just that with unique details such as a gathered front and a wrap around tie. It’s sure to be a show stopping addition to your wardrobe!
A few notes before you get started:
This is an advanced sewing pattern, not recommended for beginners. If you’re a beginner and up for the challenge, I recommend looking at tutorials before beginning.
Because this blazer is oversized, I highly suggest making a muslin first. That way you’ll be able to decide how tightly you want this to be closed, which in turn will impact the pocket placement.
The seam allowance (SA) is ½”, except for the collar which is ⅜”. All pieces are sewn right sides together (RSD) unless otherwise stated.
1. Iron on the interfacing to the wrong side of the collar pieces and front facing.
2. Sew the under collar pieces together. Trim the seam allowance and press open.
3. Sew the under collar to the collar along the upper edge, then trim the SA and press it towards the under collar.
4. Under stitch the under collar.
5. Sew the outer ends of the collar pieces together, RST. Trim SA and clip corners. Press.
How to sew the lining:
1. Iron the interfacing onto the front facing pieces.
2. Sew the back lining pieces together at the center back.
3. Line up notches and sew a side panel piece to each back piece.
4. Sew a front lining to each side panel, matching notches.
5. Sew a front facing to each front lining.
6. Trim the seam allowances, clip curves, and press seams open.
7. Sew the shoulders together. Trim seam allowances and press open.
8. Ease stitch the top of each sleeve.
9. Sew the sleeves. Trim SA and press seam open.
10. Pin the right sleeve to the right shoulder, matching the lining seams to the sleeve notches. Ease the sleeve into the armscye and sew. Notch the curves, trim the SA, and press. Repeat on the other side.
How to sew the self:
1. Sew the back pieces together at the center back.
2. Line up notches and sew a side panel to each back.
3. Sew the right front to the side panel on the wearer’s right, matching notches.
4. Repeat on the left side with the left front.
5. Trim the seam allowances, clip & notch curves, and press seams open.
6. Sew the shoulders together. Trim seam allowances and press open.
7. Ease stitch the top of each sleeve.
8. Sew the sleeves. Trim SA and press seam open.
9. Pin the right sleeve to the right shoulder, matching the lining seams to the sleeve notches. Ease the sleeve into the armscye and sew. Notch the curves, trim the SA, and press. Repeat on the other side.
10. Gather between the notches on the right front.
How to sew the pockets:
This section is a little advanced, so if you’re unfamiliar with sewing welt pockets I highly suggest looking at our in depth How To Make a Welt Pocket Tutorial before you proceed.
1. Press or baste each welt strip together.
2. Sew pocket flaps together on the sides and bottom edge 3/8″. Trim SA and notch the curves. Turn right side out and press.
3. Raw edges aligned, baste a welt strip onto both pocket flaps.
4. Use a ruler and chalk to mark out the lines for the pocket. I marked the sew lines, as well as the center line where the pocket gets cut open.
5. For extra stability, iron interfacing to the wrong side where the pocket will be.
6. Baste or pin a pocket flap with welt strip onto the self so the raw edges face downwards, aligning with the cut line. Do the same with a single welt strip at the bottom, with its raw edge facing up.
7. Carefully sew the two pieces to the self, keeping the lines parallel to one another. If you’re new to welted pockets, I suggest sewing all the way to the welt placement dots on the self. It’ll help prevent the self from puckering. I chose to sew ⅛” beyond the flap.
8. Use scissors to cut the self open along the cut line, stopping ½” away from the end of your stitches. Cut diagonally towards each stitch line, creating a triangle on each end.
9. Fold raw edges of the welts inside so they are laying flat against the wrong side of the blazer.
10. Sew the triangular end to the welt ends. Press. Repeat on the other side.
11. Fold the pocket bag in half, RST. On the wrong side of the self, pin the pocket bag’s top edges to the raw edges of the welts. Sew.
12. Sew the pocket bag’s ends closed to finish the pocket.
How to finish up and bag the blazer:
1. RST, fold the left belt tie lengthwise and sew, leaving the non diagonal end open. Turn right side out and press. Repeat with the right belt tie.
2. Use a seam ripper on the self’s seam of the right front & side pieces between the notches for the left belt tie. Insert the left belt tie, lining up its raw edge with those on the right front & side pieces. Sew it shut.
3. Pin the self to the lining, RST. Pin the right belt tie between the layers at the gathers on the right front piece. Sandwich it between the self and lining, with the raw edges aligned.
4. Sew the two front blazer edges to join the lining and self, turn right side out, press open, and under stitch the facing from the bottom to the fold line. Once you reach the fold line, clip the SA and fold towards the self, and under stitch the self up to the first peak on the lapel. Repeat on the other side.
5. With the blazer inside out, sew the bottom of the lining to the self, stopping a few inches from the front of the jacket. Turn right side out, press, fold the excess fabric, and hand stitch each end closed.
6. Pin the collar to the blazer, with the under collar against the self and the collar against the lining, clipping as you work the collar around the corners. Sew with a ⅜” SA. Clip the pivot point of the lapels, trim SA, and press.
7. Take a sleeve of the self and fold the cuff over a few inches so its right side is facing up. With lining’s corresponding sleeve, bring it over the self’s cuff so their right sides are together. Pin and sew. Repeat on the other side.
8. In one of the lining’s side seams, use a seam ripper to open up the lining about 6”. Reach inside and bring the blazer right side out. Hand stitch the seam closed, then press.