As summer transitions into fall, it’s time to start thinking about our special occasion and event wear wardrobe as the holidays approach! Our Marilla top combines two flattering designs, a peplum and a wrap, so you can’t go wrong with this one. Plus, it’s totally adaptive! As a true wrap, it is easy to slip on and off and perfect for those with mobility concerns, breastfeeding parents, or anyone who wants a simple, yet stunning top. This would look great in a variety of fabrics and prints. For sunny afternoons outside, I’m picturing a gingham or cotton eyelet with a scalloped edge, and for evenings a metallic brocade would be quite a showstopper. If you’re feeling extra ambitious, you could easily make this into a reversible top by using a different fabric as the lining!
New to adaptive patterns? Check out our guide to adaptive patterns here!
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 1.5 yards of Metallic Black, Pink and Orange Mottled Floral Outlines Luxury Brocade
- 1 package of Dritz 14 Nickel Hooks & Eyes – Size 0
- 1 spool of 318 Fuchsia 100m Gutermann Sew All Thread
- MDF322 – The Marilla Top Free Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
- True wrap design with one front hook and eye closure.
- Thanks to the lining, breastfeeding pads will not show through the material.
Possible Pattern Adaptations:
All seams are ½” seam allowance unless otherwise noted.
Keep in mind that this top is lined and uses facing. Because I self lined and my fabric has weight to it, I chose to not use facing. As a result, instructions for facing will not be included in these steps.
How to sew the straps and darts:
1. Fold straps in half lengthwise, then sew ¾” from the edge. Trim seam allowance and use a loop turner to turn straps right side out. Press.
2. Using the transferred dart markings from the pattern, take a front bodice piece and fold right sides together, along the center dart line. Press, pin, then sew along the outer diagonal dart line. Sew the second dart. Press both darts towards the sides.
Repeat on the remaining front bodice and lining pieces.
3. Sew the darts on the back panel and the lining. Press towards the sides.
How to sew the bodice:
How to attach the straps:
A note about the shoulder straps: The length is up to you! Before continuing, it’s a good idea to try on the outer bodice piece so you can decide your preferred strap length. Mark the length and then continue.
1. Place the bodice and its lining right sides together. At one of the two uppermost points of the front bodice, pin a strap between the bodice and lining, raw edges aligned. As pictured, leave room for a ⅜” seam allowance. Repeat on the other side.
2. After you’ve decided on the strap length, pin the back end of the strap to the marker on the back bodice. As in step one, the strap needs to be sandwiched between the bodice and lining, with the edges aligned. Make sure the strap isn’t twisted!
3. Continue pinning the bodice to the lining, making sure it’s aligned and laying flat.
4. Sew along the outer and top edge with a ⅜” seam allowance, leaving the bottom free. Trim the seam allowance and cut notches at the curves.
Note: Be mindful of the front strap when you’re sewing at the armscye as you don’t want it to get caught in those stitches.
How to sew the peplum:
1. Right sides together, sew the front peplum pieces to each end of the back peplum piece, creating an overlapping circle. Repeat on the lining.
2. Place the peplum and the lining right sides together, then sew along the outer edge. Leave the inner edge free. Trim seam allowance and notch the curves. Turn right side out and press the seams. Understitch if needed.
3. Right sides together and with edges aligned, pin and sew the peplum’s raw edge to the bottom of the outer bodice. Leave the lining free.
4. Fold the lining under, pin, and stitch in the ditch.
How to finish the top:
Try on the top and mark at the waist where you want a hook & eye to go. Leave space between the edge and the hook, as pictured above. This will prevent the eye from being visible once it’s fastened.