Are you tired of the same old spring pants you own and want to try something new? The Nova Pants give you two fresh looks in one free sewing pattern! With a waist similar to our Stonecress Pants, this new pattern can be cropped and cuffed for a relaxed vibe, or easily elevated with a balloon silhouette and cute ankle tie! Fabrics that are suited best to this pattern are linen, chambray, twill, and suiting.
Purchase Materials Used Below:
View A: (Red)
- 2 yards Stratton Chili Pepper Solid Organic Cotton Twill
- 1 yard White Knitted Elastic Trimming – 0.75″
- Optional: Weft Interfacing
- MDF301 – The Nova Pants Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
View B: (Yellow)
Note: All seam allowances are ½’’ aside from the ankle ties, which start at ½’’ then go to ¼’’, as noted on the pattern. Because the pants are balloon-style pants, they have an extra 6″ built into the inseam in order to bunch at the ankle. If you’d like less volume there, shorten accordingly.
1. Print, tape, and cut out your pattern.
2. Pin and place the pattern on to fabric.
3. Cut interfacing for waistband.
4. Notch all your pattern pieces and mark pleat tucks on the front pieces.
5. Sew your pleat tucks, then press the tucks so they are facing each other.
6. Pin and sew the front pieces together.
7. Once the center front is sewn, press seam open. Press in your pleats.
8. With the right sides together, pin and sew your pockets. Trim seam allowance and press.
9. Once the pocket is pressed, pin pockets in place and stitch the bottom of the pocket shut. Once that is done, baste at the top and the sides to temporary hold the pocket.
10. Pin center back seam together, stitch, and press.
11. Fold down the top edge of the pant ½’’ and press. Then make another fold that is 2’’ wide, press and edge stitch down.
12. From the bottom edge, mark a 1’’ line with chalk and stitch across.
13. Fold belt loop in half, pin, and stitch. Once stitched, press and top stitch on both sides. Cut belt loops in 2 ½’’ strips.
14. Fold ends of belt loops ¼’’ in on both sides.
15. Pin and stitch loops to the back of the pants. Pin one loop in the center and the other two six inches apart.
16. Measure your waist, then divide that by half. Cut your elastic that length. Once cut, thread the elastic through the tunnel you sewed previously. Secure the ends by sewing a line over the elastic.
17. Pin the front interfaced waistband to the front pant. Stitch across and press.
18. Pin two belt loops matching the first or second pleat on the front waistband and stitch.
19. With the right sides together, pin the other waistband and stitch. Once stitched, trim seam allowance in half then press. Next, fold the raw edge in and slip stitch shut.
20. Pin front and back together, matching crotch seams and side seams. On the outside seam, leave a 4’’ slip opening at the bottom.
(If you’re not using the ankle tie, you can simply hem your pant legs with a 1/2″ rolled hem to finish!)
21. Press all the seams open. Next fold the slit seam in and edge stitch.
22. Sew two basting stitches at the bottom of the pants.
23. Pin the ankle tie, starting at the side seam, and then pull gathers to match the end of the tie. Stitch where you have pinned.
24. With the right sides together, pin the other tie around and stitch at ¼’’ leaving an opening at the top where you just sewed. Next trim seam allowance around the corners and flip inside out. Tip: sew around the corner twice to make a secure stitch.
25. Fold the raw edge under and slip stitch shut.
26. Fold the belt in half, pin, and stitch leaving an opening in the middle to flip right side out and press.
27. Thread the D rings through one of the sides, pin, and stitch.
28. Press your pants and you’re ready to go!