Slowly but surely, the seasons are changing and warm weather is on the horizon! It’s officially time to pack up your bulky winter coat and begin thinking about your transitional wardrobe. Spring is a season of layers, so you’ll need to be sure your wardrobe is stocked. Luckily, free patterns help with that. Our newest free sewing pattern, the Olive Jacket, features an adorable cinched waistband and plenty of pockets! Try it with a classic canvas like we did, or check out any of Mood’s recommended jacket fabrics.
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
To begin, place your lower pocket welt/bag face down on your lower front bodice pieces, referring to the guidelines on your pattern. With the fabrics face to face, sew a 1/2″ wide rectangle 2″ down from the top of your pocket. Cut through the pocket and jacket layer, clipping carefully out to the corners of the stitching.
Flip the pocket inward toward the wrong side of your jacket panels. Fold the top portion of your pocket down and fold the bottom portion up so the folds meet halfway through the pocket opening. Press to create your pocket welts.
Stitch around the pocket opening.
Fold your pocket back up, matching the corners, and then stitch around the three raw edges. If desired, hide your raw edges with some bias tape.
Next, begin forming your upper pocket and lower flap by finishing the top edge with a small 1/4″ rolled hem.
Fold the long edge of the pocket inward toward the wrong side, press, and then fold the lower flap portion upward following the guide on your pattern piece. Press and then sew up the sides of your pocket and flap.
Pin your upper pocket and lower flap 1″ down from the top of your lower front jacket panels, lining it up with your lower pocket.
Form each of your upper pocket flaps, turn right side out, and press.
Place your upper pocket flap atop your upper pocket, lining it up with the top edge of your jacket panel. Sew your front yoke pieces to each lower jacket panel, securing your pocket flap in place as you do. Press your yoke upwards and edge-stitch along the seam.
Attach your back yoke to your lower back jacket panel similarly and then sew your front and back jacket pieces together at the shoulders and side seams.
Create each of your shoulder tabs and pin into place that the shoulder seams.
On each sleeve, cut the cuff opening following the guide on your pattern.
Sew your bias binding along the opening, face to face.
Fold the binding toward the inside of your sleeve, tucking in the raw edges. Stitch into place and press.
Pin one of the long edges of your cuffs to the bottom of your sleeve, inserting two pleats at the noted spots on your pattern. Stitch into place, and fold the cuff upwards with the faces together. Sew up the sides, turn right side out and press. Slip-stitch the opening inside the sleeve.
Insert snaps at the edge of your should tabs and then set in each of your sleeves.
Face to face, sew your placket extension to the right side of your jacket front. Add your snaps to the other edge of your placket with the solid faces toward the wrong side of your fabric. Fold the placket in half, hiding the solid face of the snaps and pin into place.
Create your jacket facing, attaching the front and back pieces at the shoulders. Serge or hem the outer edge of your facing.
Sew the facing to the left side of your jacket front and then press toward the inside. Pin the facing along the neckline and then add the other half of your snaps along the left edge of your jacket.
Along the right side of your jacket, fold the raw edge of your facing under and top-stitch into place, sewing through your placket as well.
Fold the bottom edge of your jacket upward toward the wrong side 1/2″ followed by another full inch to create your drawstring casing. Feed your drawstring through and knot the ends to gather the bottom of the jacket.
Form your collar and then attach it along the neckline of your jacket.
Lastly, insert snaps at the sleeve cuffs and upper pocket flap, and your jacket is ready to wear!