Typically associated with 80’s era office gals, the necktie or pussy bow blouse is coming back in a chic way. While we’ve made our newest Onella Blouse free sewing pattern to be paired with our Janet Cosplay, we can’t wait to make it again and again this fall. I can already imagine it in a gorgeously draped crepe or georgette or even a cozy flannel, perfect for walking through the park as the leaves begin to change!
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
Begin sewing your shirt by adding your bust darts to the front panels of your blouse, noting the guides on your pattern pieces. After stitching, press them downward.
Following the guidelines on your pattern, mark your faux placket folds at the center front of your shirt. The center edge should be folded inward half an inch, followed by a full inch and sewed down as you see in the image below. Do this for both of your front blouse panels.
Attach the front and back panels at the shoulders and side seams. Since this is an unlined garment, I recommend French seams here.
Sew the inseam of each of your sleeves also using French seams.
Along the top curve of your sleeve, stay-stitch with your widest straight stitch in between the markings on your pattern piece. Note, do not back stitch here. Pull one of the threads so your fabric gathers like you see in the lower left-hand image.
Pin and sew your sleeves into the armscye of your blouse. Here, I sewed regular seams and them bound them with bias tape to clean them up.
Create your sleeve cuffs and evenly gather the bottom of your sleeve along one edge, fabric faces together. Fold the other raw edge up toward the inside of your sleeve, tuck in your seam allowance, and slip-stitch closed.
Next, sew your necktie pieces together along the short edge using a regular seam and press the seam open. Line the seam up with the center back of your blouse and pin it faces together along the neckline of your garment, like you see below.
Fold the tie in half downward, bringing the faces together. Sew along the raw edges from the point to the stitching line where you attached it to your neckline. Do this for both ties.
Clip your seam allowance, turn your bow ties right side out and press. Fold the raw edge inward along the neckline and slip-stitched closed.
Lastly, add your buttons and corresponding buttonholes evenly along the front placket of your blouse and hem the very bottom of your shirt with a simple rolled hem.