As we transition into spring, sewing provides the perfect opportunity to refresh our wardrobes with light layers and comfortable styles, all while brushing up on our skills and trying new things. Floral prints are back in full bloom, but this time they’re bigger and bolder than ever before. Pastels are also making a comeback, one that we’re fully embracing this month in the Sewciety studio!
We couldn’t think of a better way to welcome the fresh and vibrant spirit of spring than to release our new free sewing pattern. The Opal Dress is positively darling, with a short a-line skirt and puffed sleeves. While it has the makings of a classic, almost retro silhouette, there’s also a fun twist: a cutout midriff and keyhole back. We love it, and we think you will too!
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 3 yards of Mood Exclusive Lavender Lattice Polyester Seersucker
- 1pc 068 Lavender Invisible Zipper
- 1 Spool 907 Dahlia 500mm Gutermann Sew All Thread
- 1pk Maxant Button Cover Kit – Size 24
- MDF340 – The Opal Dress Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
Alternative Recommended Fabrics:
How to sew the bodice:
1. Sew the darts on the front bodice, front bodice lining, front skirt, and back skirt. Press, then set aside.
2. Determine the size buttons you’re using, and make the appropriate sized loops out of the self. Baste the loops onto the right side of the back bodice, on the seam allowance, with the loops facing inward towards the bodice.
3. Sew the front bodice to the back, only at the shoulder seams. Repeat with the lining.
3. Sew the front bodice to the back, only at the shoulder seams. Repeat with the lining.
4. Right sides together, sew the lining to the self, along the neckline and keyhole. Trim the seam allowance, clip the curves, and turn right side out. Understitch.
5. Turn inside out again, and sew along the front cutout and back bottom edge. Trim seam allowance, turn right side out, and press.
6. Sew on the buttons.
How to sew the sleeves:
1. Right sides together, sew the inner seam shut.
2. Along the wrist, double fold ⅜” and sew, leaving an opening for the elastic. Insert your elastic, secure, and sew the hem shut.
3. Repeat on the other sleeve.
4. Sew the sleeves to the bodice.
How to sew the skirt:
1. Iron the interfacing on the waistband pieces, then sew the waistband facings to each other, along the side seams. Press the seams.
2. Sew the back skirt to the front, right sides together, along the side seams.
3. Right sides together, pin the bottom edge of the bodice to the front of the skirt, raw edges together. Use the darts on the skirt to make sure it’s centered.
4. Pin the waistband facing to the skirt, on top of the bodice so the bodice is sandwiched between the facing and skirt. The waistband and skirt should be right sides together, and the bodice and skirt should be right sides together.
5. Sew along the top edge. Trim the seam allowance and clip the curves. Fold the facing inside the skirt and press down.
6. Unfold the facing at the center back, and sew the invisible zipper to the back skirt.
7. Fold the facing wrong side out, over the right side of the skirt. Sew to the zipper. Fold right side out and press.
7. Sew together the remainder of the center back seam.
9 comments
I’ve been seeing dresses like this, with elastic at the back and butt and love them. Any suggestion on how to adjust this pattern to add elastic there instead of a zipper?
Hi Gloria! Since the lack of zipper means the waist will be closed, you’ll need to use a skirt waist size that’s large enough to fit over your shoulders or waist, depending on how you want to put the dress on. Print out the size you’d make if you were using the zipper. Once you have that shoulder circumference or waist measurement, compare it to the waist of the pattern. Write down the difference in measurement. Remember to take all the seam allowances into account!
You have a few options for the next step. You can either omit the center back seam (since you don’t technically need it sans zipper), or you can leave it. I suggest omitting it. Either way, add the extra inches to the back of the skirt only.
Before you sew the front and back skirt together:
Instead of using the back waist facing, I suggest making bias binding from the self to sew inside the waist. Decide on the width of elastic you’re using, and make the binding accordingly. Sew it to the front and back skirts separately. When you sew it to the front skirt, use the method similar to the instructions in this post: sandwich the bodice in between the binding and the skirt. When you’re stitching the other edge of the binding to the underside of the skirt, make sure you hide the raw edge of the bodice inside the binding. If this seems a little confusing, just google “how to sew binding inside a garment” and you’ll find lots of great visual tutorials. Insert your elastic into the back only, and secure it on each end with a few stitches.
Sew your front and back skirts together with french seams.
It might be possible to put a side zip in, and still make the back elasticated for comfort?
I love a cutout! I think this dress would look fabulous in an Ankara print.
Muchas por ayudarnos a seguir en lo que es nuestra pasión
OMG i love you guys, is it possible to make a pattern on the FAMOUS Fleabag jumpsuit…i have t found it anywhere, i think it would be a huge sucess
Hi Kharolyne! I love that idea!
was this lined at all?
Hi Kira! The bodice is lined, as written on the pattern. I lined the skirt, but only because the fabric was slightly translucent.