If I had to choose one aesthetic to represent a season, it would be dark academia for autumn. Lucky for us, both season and style are in full swing here in the Sewciety studio and we are loving every minute of it. If you’re unfamiliar with dark academia, think tweed blazers, antique books, candles, cozy cats, and *ahem* our new Snapdragon Skirt free sewing pattern! The Snapdragon Skirt has godets, which give it extra flair and movement. If you’ve never sewn godets before, you’re in luck because I’ve included a little tutorial! I’m sure Snapdragon will be a well-loved and well-worn addition to your fall wardrobe. We styled it with our Wren Shirt for ultimate dark academia vibes. How will you style it?
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 3 yards of Italian Gray and Pale Blue Plaid Wool Suiting
- 12 Matte Dove Gray and Shiny Midnight Narrow Rimmed 4-Hole Plastic Button – 36L/23mm
- 1 spool of 114 Graymore 100m Gutermann Sew All Thread
- MDF328 – The Snapdragon Skirt Free Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
All seam allowances are 1/2″.
How to sew the godets:
Note: For the sake of visibility, I made a mini godet. The ones used in the pattern are much larger!
1. Right sides together, line up an edge of the slash and godet, matching the dots at the uppermost point. The godet will start to overlap the edge near the top, and that’s ok.
2. Sew, starting from the bottom. As you reach the uppermost point, you’ll need to decrease the seam allowance as pictured. Draw a guideline if you need to. Do not backstitch at the top.
3. Pin to the other side of the godet to other slash, right sides together. If you need to remove a stitch or two from the top of the godet so it can sit flat (as pictured above), do so now. Sew.
4. Press. I chose to edgestitch here for extra stability.
How to sew the skirt:
1. Double fold the straight edge of the skirt to the wrong side. The outermost notch marks the folded edge, the inner notch marks the placement of the second fold. Sew. Repeat on the other side.
2. Sew the front pieces to the back at the side seams, right sides together.
How to sew the waistband:
1. Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of each waistband piece.
2. Sew the front pieces to the back, right sides together. Repeat. You should now have two waistbands.
3. Right sides together, pin the outer and inner waistbands together. Sew the top edge.
How to finish the skirt:
1. Right sides together, pin the edge of the outer waistband to the top edge of the skirt. Align the side seams. Sew. Trim the seam allowance and press it up towards the waistband.
2. Sew each end of the waistband closed. Use the skirt as a guide on where to sew the waistband. Clip the corners and trim seam allowances on the band.
3. Fold the free edge of the waistband under so it just clears the seam from step 1. Press, then stitch in the ditch.
4. Because the skirt’s edge has a curve and we want a clean-looking hem, sew a basting stitch ¼” from the bottom edge. Gather slightly, then fold over and press. Fold over again at the basting stitch, then press. Sew.
5. On the wearer’s right side, sew your preferred number of buttonholes. On the wearer’s left, sew the buttons.