You can’t go wrong with a romper. This summer equivalent to a jumpsuit is an entire outfit in one easy to choose garment! Our Sollya Romper features a fitted waist, slightly puffed sleeves, and pleated shorts for the perfect fit! Create yours in any one of Mood’s two-toned linens, or try a version in your favorite cotton print!
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 3 yards Sanremo Sky Blue and White Two-Tone Linen
- 12″-24″ Invisible Zipper
- Dritz Size 18-7/16″ Half Ball Covered Buttons
- MDF204 – The Sollya Romper Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
First, we’ll start on the corset-like waist portion. Begin by attaching the two center front panels at the center front seam, followed by the side front panels. The seams are noted on your pattern to ensure that you attach the correct edges. Repeat with your lining pieces; I chose to line my bodice with the same linen, like you see below.
Next, add your side back and center back panels. Here is where you should do your first fitting. This part of the garment should fit comfortable, but rather fitted along the torso and our sizing includes a range. Our 8-10 is more of a 10 and may need to be brought in here if you’re more in the size 8 range. When fitting, be sure that there’s 1/2″ leftover at your center back pieces to add in a zipper later on
Be sure to repeat any changes on your main layer on your lining layer as well. Once fitted, press open your seams. Additionally, you can choose to top-stitch your seams down for extra security or decoration.
Create your upper bodice by attaching the front and back at the shoulder and side seams like you see below. Since this will be lined, you can use regular seams and press them open as well. Repeat with your lining.
Pin your upper bodice to the corset portion, beginning by matching up the side seams, as well as the center front and back. Gather the front bodice, like you see below. If you brought your corset in a bit, you may have some overhang at the back of your upper bodice. If so, pleat the extra at the back princess seam.
When sewing, stop 1/2″ from the center front seam. Repeat all steps with both sides and your lining.
Set your bodice to the side for the time being to create your sleeves. Begin by gathering the top of your sleeves between the notches on your pattern.
Form each sleeve by sewing up the inseam using a French seam.
Set each sleeve into your main bodice layer using a regular seam.
Form your sleeve cuffs and press the seams open. Gather the lower edge of your sleeves into one edge of each cuff, like you see below.
Fold the raw edges of your cuff inward 1/2″ and then again to meet with the seam. Pin and slip-stitch into place to finish your sleeves.
Form your shorts using a French seam, attaching the front panels at the rise first, follow by the back panels at the rise. Be sure to leave 5″-7″ open at the center back for a zipper.
Sew the front and back at the side seams and then attach to your bodice. Line up your side seams, center front, and center back seams first and then pleat at the princess seams.
Lastly, add in your invisible zipper starting at the top of the corset portion, shortening it at the bottom if need be. Attach your bodice lining at the neckline and center back seam, slip-stitching the remainder inside the bodice. Add a button and buttonhole at the top of your neckline to connect your two back upper bodice peices.
Your shorts can also be cut to your desired length and hemmed, if desired. I personally love the selvage on this linen, so I chose to keep it!
39 comments
Great looking romper! How much ease is there in the pattern? Size 4 matches the bust and waist that I need exactly but hips!! I need 37.3 for the hips. Thanks
Hi Karen! With the way this pattern works, you could definitely cut a 4 for the waist anad bust and a 10 for the shorts. You’ll have a tad extra on the shorts to pleat into the waist, so you could add a 2nd pleat if you’d like!
Thank you
Just what I was looking for – I love rompers! It’s a shame however that you left out the more difficult stuff out of the tutorial – I’m trying to up my sewing game but I’m not sure how to add lining to garments, epecially with a zipper involved.
I love your site and have for years. Love all your patterns. Thank you so much.
Love the style! Do you think the pattern would work for a woven rayon, like rayon challis?
Yes, I think that would look lovely!
I made this in a challis and it is beautiful! I lined all but the sleeves in a lightweight cotton lining and it hangs perfectly. As mentioned, this pattern is super easy to custom fit to your personal measurements. Mark your waist pieces by name with a washout sewing marker for ease of assembly (on both the shell and lining). Thank you, Courtney!!
If I left the sleeves off how much yardage would you estimate? Take a yard off? Think I’ll make this in satin for a dressy look – would that work?
Hi Christa! You’d likely 2.5-3 yards depending on your size.
Does the 3 yards needed for this pattern include the inner lining?
Yes, it does! 🙂
Would this work on polyester?
Hi there! It would depend what kind of polyester you’d be using, but it would likely work! 🙂
Do I add the seam allowance myself or is it included in the pattern already?
A 1/2″ seam allowance is already included. 🙂
I’m feeling bold and planning to make this in a funky striped linen remnant I got from an interiors shop.. I’ll add some length to the legs and somehow give the front bodice a bit more coverage.
Hi! Would you recommend adding lining? I really want to make this in a floral fabric, but it’s quite sheer. And lining makes me scared… 🙂
Hi Saga – luckily the bodice is fully lined, but you can also cut the shorts in a lining fabric for some extra opaqueness. 🙂
Is the lining included in the amount of fabric needed or should I buy more?
Hi Same! The lining for the bodice is included in the 3 yards listed – if you’d like to line the shorts as well, you may need extra.
love this one!
Would love more details (maybe even illustrated!) on how to put the shorts together. I ended up giving up entirely and just making a gathered skirt and turning it into a dress. The shorts are the hardest part of this pattern in my opinion and it was very frustrating to have such detailed instructions for every part EXCEPT the shorts, lol. Wonderful pattern apart from that though!
Hi! I was wondering if you think bias tape facing would work, as opposed to lining the top? Love this romper and I’m so excited to make it!
Hi, Amy! As long as the fabric you’re using is thick enough that a lining isn’t necessary, bias tape should work well! 🙂
Thank you for this pattern! With your instructions (and a lot of help from an old reader’s digest sewing manual) I made my first wearable garment.
Hi! Do you think it would work to omit the shorts and use the bodice part as a blouse pattern? I really love the fit of the top half!
Yes, you certainly could!
Do you think this pattern could work with a spandex/polyester stretchy fabric? I would assume I may need to size down a bit depending on the stretch.
Hi, Caitlin! Yes, I think that could work really well – but you’re right, I’d size down at least once. The good thing about this pattern though is that you can make the corset section at the waist and test fit that before you continue!
That is really smart!! Thank you!
If you were to line the garment in a different fabric, how much would you need of each fabric?
Hi Angelina, for a fully lined romper I’d use the same amount. 🙂
Hi do you think that i can turn this into a dress?
Hi Vana, yes this would make a fabulous dress!
Would the Poppy dress sleeves fit this pattern without changing it? I’m hoping for something with more ‘poof.’
Hi! You could definitely use the poppy sleeves! You may need to adjust the curve of the armscye a bit, but you can use the Sollya sleeve as a template. You just want to make sure that at least the armpit curve matches. 🙂
I made this in the size that fits my measurements. It was SO big even AFTER taking out upwards of 4″ in the corseted section. It’s so big that I get get it on and off easily without touching the zipper. I’m realizing I’ve had this issue with lots of other patterns of yours and it made me wonder if you actually make mockups of all the sizes or just make mockups of the smaller sizes and just grade upwards for the larger ones? I *should* fit your size 20 perfectly based off my measurements but everytime I make a garment in size 20 I wish I’d have made it 2 or 3 sizes smaller. I’m pretty disappointed that as a midsized person, I am considered ‘plus sized’ by most pattern makers and never do they fit right on the first try, because they’re always designed to fit a skinnier, more ideal body.
Hi Rebecca, I understand you’re frustration and we’re so sorry that some of our patterns have been so disappointing. Our older patterns are a bit tricky, because some of them were drafted by different methods and we are learning that sometimes it wasn’t consistent. Unfortunately the Sewciety team from back then is no longer all here so we can’t just ask them to tell us which ones need to be revised, and because of the extensive collection of free patterns we’ve provided over the years, it’s incredibly difficult to go back and test every single pattern from before any of us were here! We are a small team of 3. I am a size 20 in our patterns, and I will say that patterns from the last 1-2 years are more consistent in sizing. Ultimately, I usually give the pattern pieces a quick measure before cutting my fabric, just to be sure that it’s the right size for me. Thankfully, our newer patterns do contain finished garment measurements, which makes it SO much easier. It’s also worth noting, we always do recommend making a muslin first, no matter if it’s one of our patterns or not! Sadly I have never, in my 20+ years of sewing, encountered a pattern that fits me as-is.