The corset trend has been rising in popularity for a while now, being sported over t-shirts, dresses, and dress shirts alike, but lately it’s been taking an interesting turn: corset blouses. These new fashion favorites are a great way to get the corset-like vibe and silhouette without the damaging effects that an actual corset sometimes has. Made here in one of Mood’s luscious stretch satins, the Sorrel Top is perfect for the summer to fall transition period. Create yours with transparent sleeves for a more warm weather environment, or try a stretch velour for a look that’s ready to be paired with crisp leaves and a cup of apple cider.
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
Begin your shirt with the corset portion. Attach the side back panels to either side of your center back using French seams. Top-stitch the seam allowance down.
Attach the side front panels to their respective front panels, also using French seams; however, this time use a 5/8″ seam allowance when sewing the secondary stitch of the seam. This creates a casing for you to slip some 1/2″ rigilene boning into. Cut your boning to size, curving any sharp edges, and leaving 1″ along both the top and bottom for later seam allowance.
Top-stitch the boning down, sewing carefully and slowly so as not to break your needle.
Attach the front and back of your corset pieces at the side seams. Fit your corset here, overlapping the center front edges 1″. If needed, take your corset in at the side seams.
Next, attach your front and back bodice pieces at the shoulders and side seams using French seams.
Right sides together, pin your bodice to the top edge of your corset. Line up your side seams and center front edges to start. Evenly gather the remainder of your bodice into the corset. Stitch into place with a stretch stitch or serge. If you’d use a basic stretch stitch on a regular machine and want to hide your raw edges inside your garment, you can bind it with bias tape.
Next, create each of your sleeves by sewing up the inseam with a French seam. Set each sleeve into it’s respective armscye, lining up your notches and evenly gathering the top portion of your sleeve. Since French seams can be tricky here, I recommend a regular seam bound with bias tape.
Create each of your sleeve cuffs, sewing along the longer edge with fabric faces together. Press your seam open using a pressing cloth and evenly gather the bottom of your sleeve into one of the raw edges. Once attached, fold the cuff in half, tuck in your seam allowance inside your sleeve and slip-stitch the inside of your cuff. Press the bottom of each cuff using a pressing cloth.
Face to face, pin the hook portion of your hook and eye tape along the right side of the front of your garment, like you see above.
Create your facing, attach the front and back with a regular seam. Hem the outer edge with a baby hem, like below. Face to face, pin the facing along the neckline and front of your blouse, sandwiching the hook tape in between. Stitch with a 3/8″ seam allowance and lightly press the facing toward the inside of your garment using a pressing cloth.
Edge-stitch along the hook tape, securing the facing down along that edge as well.
Pin and top-stitch the corresponding hook tape into place along the opposite edge.
Lastly, hem the bottom of your garment with a small rolled hem!
Will you be adding the Sorrel Top to your wardrobe this season? Let me know in the comments below!