This season’s coat trends all seem to have one thing in common: go for bold. Be it length, color, or silhouette, everything that went down the runway for fall/winter was big and daring. The Tansy Trench free sewing pattern takes those trends into account and brings a powerful look with a more everyday wearability. With statement shoulders and a long hem, this trench coat can be made with one of Mood’s water-repellent fabrics, or even a more stylized denim or jacquard!
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
Begin by sewing the front panels of your trench to the back along the side seams. Notch the seam allowance at the waist curve, like you see below, to relieve the tension. Press the seams open.
Repeat with your lining layer, attaching the front facing to the side front lining to form the full front panel.
Next, form your rain guard by sewing the two pieces face to face along the bottom curved edge. Clip the seam allowance to make sure your curve is crisp, turn the piece right-side-out and press. Edge-stitch the lower edge and pin to your back coat panel.
Sew the front darts and then attach your front panels to the back at the shoulder seams, pinning the rain guard in between.
Form your sleeves by pleating the upper portion, following the guidelines on your pattern. The first pleat gets folded upwards, the second down, and the lowest one gets pinned up again.
Stay-stitch the pleats into place and then sew the inseam of each sleeve. Set them into your jacket armhole.
The sleeve lining is a basic sleeve shape and can also be set into the lining armhole.
Create two sleeve cuffs, sewing two panels each face to face along the top three edges and turning right-side-out. Stitch them along the lower edge of your sleeves, overlapping them where indicated on the pattern.
Place your pocket lining over your front jacket panel, face to face, where indicated on your pattern piece. Sew a rectangle through both layers, cut through the center and turn your pocket in toward the wrong side of your jacket. Press and edge-stitch around the opening of the pocket and then fold the pocket lining in half. Close the remaining three edges.
Create each of your pocket flaps and sew them over the pocket opening. Place and sew your buttons and respective buttonholes onto the pockets.
Sew your lining to the jacket along the collar and center front, faces together. Turn right-side-out and hem your lining and main layer individually. Slip-stitch your sleeve lining to the cuff of your main sleeve.
Add in your buttons and button holes and your jacket is nearly there! Sew your belt, add in your belt buckle and eyelet, and you’re ready to start wearing it!
Be sure to check out our matching kids’ trench coat pattern!