Who says overalls have to be in denim? For this project, it’s time to step outside the norm and experiment! Finding the right denim in a fabric store can often be a stressful purchase. Is it the right weight, does it have stretch, do you have all the tools you need? Today, we’ll be making Mood’s newest free sewing pattern, the Taro Jumper, with an organic cotton twill and a versatile cotton sateen. Twill is one of those fabrics that has a weight to it without feeling heavy, while sateen can be used for a variety of different looks! 

Purchase Materials Used Below:

• 2-3 yards Stratton Marine Blue Solid Organic Cotton Twill or Mood Exclusive Rainbow Language of Love Stretch Cotton Sateen
• 2 pcs Italian Silver Metal Buckle – 1″ X 2″
• 2 pkgs Dritz Silver Jean Buttons – 6 Ct
• MDF311 – The Taro Jumper Sewing Pattern (free download below!)

Any type of project will have a lot of topstitching details, which is what we want to achieve with this project. Tex 40 is usually the thread type to use. If you do not have access to this thread, threading the top portion of your machine with two threads can be an option as you see below. After which you will then determine the stitch length and tension.

Angled Chest Pocket: 

Start by ironing all the seam allowances on the top and sides. At the bottom of the angle, make a cut of ⅜ depth and fold over seam allowances as shown. 

Overlock edges and topstitch.

To sew, use an awl or point turner to help you create clean corners on the angles. Sew pocket only to one front chest panel.

Sew straps with ⅜ seam allowances and flip right side out and topstitch.

Front Pant Pocket:

Sew pocket lining to front ⅜ and snip the round edge. Flip over and topstitch all seam allowances towards the lining at ⅛.

Iron pocket flat and topstitch. 

Fuse pocket facing for buttonholes, and overlock edges. Mark buttonholes, for this project a keyhole design was chosen.

Sew facing to pocket, right sides together. Flip right side out and press.

Sew pocket self and lining together. Options are available to achieve a clean finishing, such as French seam or overlock. Note: my photo below shows a raw edge along the sides where you should have a sewn facing edge.

To sew the center front, we will be creating a faux zipper opening. Begin by overlocking the fly.

Sew fly ⅜, at the end make a ⅜ cut.

Top sitch all seam allowances to the fly at ⅛ “.

On the left side, sew the fly extension and repeat the same steps for the right side.

Once both sides have their fly parts sewn, sew seam allowance from crotch until zipper ½” over seam allowance.

Overlock seam allowance until the fly. 

Pin and topstitch the closing.

Add topstitching to the faux fly.

Back of Pants:

Add fusing to the side vents. This will provide support to any hardware or buttons that will be sewn.

Overlock the edge of the vent facing. 

Sew vent facing and vent, and topstitch all seam allowances towards the facing.

Flip the vent to be on the right side. Make  a ⅜” sewing guide at the side seam. Snip the corner into the vent at a 45-degree angle.

Sew back crotch with ½” seam allowance and overlock. Topstitch seam.

Join inseams and topstitch.

Place the pocket with the buttonhole and baste to hold at the waist.

3 options for closing the side seam: 

1. Sew side seams together and overlock. 
2. Overlock side seams individually and press seam allowance.
3. French seam

Pinback facing and front self of pocket together, sew together. It’s important that you do not sew the entire pocket to the back facing, as this will limit the depth of the pocket.

Sew straps to the back waist and close the top of the waistband.

If you’d like to add shirring to the back of your waistband, check out this tutorial!

Waistband Loops:

Overlock the edges, fold, and stitch down the edge using the overlock seam as a guide.

Waistband finishing is 3’’, cut loops to 3.5″. Sew each loop at waist marking. Then sew the waistband

Sew both front chest to close and flip to right side and topstitch.

Sew facing on top of back chest front. Sew seam allowance towards the facing at ⅛”. On the facing of the waistband hem, sew ⅜ seam allowance and iron. This step will help you sew the waistband with a clean finishing, overlocking is also another option or bias binding.

Topstitch waistband for details. Once done proceed to close waistband loops.

Back waist assembled, baste stitch elastic to the waistband on both ends and middle. Stretch and overlock the waistband. The more you stretch while sewing, the smoother the stitches will become. It will also help to not break any stitches.

Sew waistband closed by stitching in the ditch at waist seam.

Add Hardware:

Mark buttons using the buttonhole as a guide. Jean buttons were used. Buttons or snaps are optional.

Add your hardware at the straps and the top of your bodice.

Hemming:

Double hem or overlock and fold over while giving ¾” to 1.25″ hem.

Overalls project complete, now it’s your turn! Take a challenge and mix up. This pattern can be used on brocade, corduroy, chino cloth, heavyweight cotton, denim, and linen.