Cher & Dionne in Clueless, The Craft coven, and Britney Spears’ Hit Me Baby One More Time. Yes, the iconic pleated mini skirt certainly had a moment in the ’90s. In fact, how many of us have worn a variation at some point? With temperatures cooling off and Halloween coming up, I can’t think of a better time to release the Thistle Kilt free sewing pattern! It’s a wrap skirt, so depending on the closures you choose, it can be adjustable which is always a plus. Whether you’re channeling an iconic ’90s character or you’re creating your own unique look, we look forward to seeing what you come up with!
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 1 yard of Mood Exclusive Chrysanthemum Crisp Linen and Rayon Woven
- 0.5 yards of Heathered Black Warp Knitting Fusible Interfacing
- 1 spool of 943 Dusted Purple 100m Gutermann Sew All Thread
- MDF329 – The Thistle Kilt Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
All seam allowances are 1/2″.
How to sew the front skirt:
1. On the wearer’s left side of the front pleated panel, hem 1”.
2. Sew the right side front to the front pleated panel, right sides together. I used French seams on this skirt for a finished look.
3. Pleat and pin the front pleated panel towards the wearer’s left side, using the notches as a guide. Do not pleat the right side front.
4. Make sure the pleats on the front skirt (the RSF & FPP) give it the correct width. Lay it flat, then align its upper edge with the front waist’s bottom edge to make sure it matches in width, leaving that extra ½” on the wearer’s left side of the front waist for its seam allowance. Make sure the notches are aligned properly.
5. Mark the pleats 2 ½” down from the top edge, then edgestitch each one to the mark.
How to sew the back skirt:
1. Sew the side back skirt pieces to the back skirt, matching notches, with right sides together.
2. Match the notches on the side back skirt and the right side front skirt. Sew.
3. Repeat with the side back skirt and left front skirt.
4. Hem the other side of the left front skirt 1”.
5. Hem the bottom edge of the skirt 1”.
If you have trouble with the hem laying flat because of the curve, use fusible tape to press the hem before sewing.
How to attach the waistband:
1. If you’re using fusible interfacing, iron it onto the waistband pieces now.
2. Right sides together, sew the right front waist to the back waist. Repeat.
3. Right sides together, sew the left front waist to the back waist. Repeat.
4. Pin and sew the outer and inner waistbands together at the top edge. Clip the curves, trim the seam allowance, and press it open.
5. Right sides together and edges aligned, pin the outer waistband to the top of the skirt. The notches in the waistband should match with the skirt seams. Trim the seam allowance and press it upwards.
6. Sew each end of the waistband. Clip corners and trim the seam allowance. Turn the waistband right side out and press.
7. Press the remaining waistband edge under, overlapping the waistband/skirt seam. Stitch in the ditch.
Sew a small snap or hook & eye on the end of the left skirt, securing it to the right skirt.
Decide on the placement and number of buckles, then sew them on.