Cher & Dionne in Clueless, The Craft coven, and Britney Spears’ Hit Me Baby One More Time. Yes, the iconic pleated mini skirt certainly had a moment in the ’90s. In fact, how many of us have worn a variation at some point? With temperatures cooling off and Halloween coming up, I can’t think of a better time to release the Thistle Kilt free sewing pattern! It’s a wrap skirt, so depending on the closures you choose, it can be adjustable which is always a plus.
The Jack-O-Lantern Collection is one of our latest Halloween themed Mood Exclusives. Jack-O-Lantern is the the delightful autumnal collection of your dreams! With prints available in Linen Rayon Woven, Stretch Cotton Sateen, and Rayon Batiste, you can make nearly anything.
So, whether you’re channeling an iconic ’90s character or you’re creating your own unique look with a motorcycle jacket and combat boots, we look forward to seeing what you come up with!
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 1 yard of Mood Exclusive Chrysanthemum Crisp Linen and Rayon Woven
- 0.5 yards of Heathered Black Warp Knitting Fusible Interfacing
- 1 spool of 943 Dusted Purple 100m Gutermann Sew All Thread
- MDF329 – The Thistle Kilt Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
Alternative Recommended Fabrics:
All seam allowances are 1/2″.
How to sew the front skirt:
Step 1
On the wearer’s left side of the front pleated panel, hem 1”.
Step 2
Sew the right side front to the front pleated panel, right sides together. I used French seams on this skirt for a finished look.
Step 3
Fold and pin the pleats on the front pleated panel towards the wearer’s left side. The image above is a close-up of the panel’s top edge. As pictured, each pleat is indicated by a notch. Fold the at the notch, and direct that fold to the wearer’s left side. Start from the wearer’s left and work your way to the right. The folds on the wrong side should never extend beyond the fold’s on top. In other words, the pleats stay in their own lanes. Do not pleat the right side front.
Step 4
Make sure the pleats on the front skirt (the RSF & FPP) give it the correct width. Lay it flat, then align its upper edge with the front waist’s bottom edge to make sure it matches in width, leaving that extra ½” on the wearer’s left side of the front waist for its seam allowance. Make sure the notches are aligned properly.
Step 5
Mark the pleats 2 ½” down from the top edge, then edgestitch each one to the mark.
How to sew the back skirt:
Step 1
Sew the side back skirt pieces to the back skirt, matching notches, with right sides together.
Step 2
Match the notches on the side back skirt and the right side front skirt. Sew.
Step 3
Repeat with the side back skirt and left front skirt.
Step 4
Hem the other side of the left front skirt 1”.
Step 5
Hem the bottom edge of the skirt 1”.
If you have trouble with the hem laying flat because of the curve, use fusible tape to press the hem before sewing.
How to attach the waistband:
Step 1
If you’re using fusible interfacing, iron it onto the waistband pieces now.
Step 2
Right sides together, sew the right front waist to the back waist. Repeat.
Step 3
Right sides together, sew the left front waist to the back waist. Repeat.
Step 4
Pin and sew the outer and inner waistbands together at the top edge. Clip the curves, trim the seam allowance, and press it open.
Step 5
Right sides together and edges aligned, pin the outer waistband to the top of the skirt. The notches in the waistband should match with the skirt seams. Trim the seam allowance and press it upwards.
Step 6
Sew each end of the waistband. Clip corners and trim the seam allowance. Turn the waistband right side out and press.
Step 7
Press the remaining waistband edge under, overlapping the waistband/skirt seam. Stitch in the ditch.
Sew a small snap or hook & eye on the end of the left skirt, securing it to the right skirt.
Decide on the placement and number of buckles, then sew them on.
What would you call the buckle closures you used? I’m having trouble finding something similar
Hi Mae! This is a good starting place if you’re looking for decorative closures. 😀
This one is absolutely amazing!!! The pleats are so cute! I absolutely love kilts, especially their historical side turned modern! Could you make some more of these historically modern things? (I’m obsessed about the Bridgerton Collection, it’s AWESOME). I was thinking that bc Halloween is coming up this might be a cool idea! Maybe sth like Victorian Style Jodhpurs for that Steampunk feel 🙂
Tried to get the download, but am not getting any email. Tried twice
Hi Fiona! Sorry about that. If you email info@moodfabrics.com they can send you the pattern directly. 😀
Hi,
Thank you for the free pattern! How would I go about modifying this to be a Stacey/Billie kilt style skirt (very similar, but with pleats in back, flat panel in front)? Any guidance you could provide would be greatly appreciated! Thank you.
Hi Betsy, we’re sorry for the delay in responding to your question! We get dozens of comments and questions each day, and so many questions get buried and, unfortunately, unanswered. We are now focusing user support on patterns 2 years and newer. We hope this will prevent questions on our more current patterns from going unanswered. Although this is late, we wanted to respond in case anyone else has the same question: If you are looking for a more traditional kilt design as you had described, I suggest consulting Scottish kiltmakers and artisans to learn the craft from a direct source.
The pleats in a kilt go in the back. The front panel is flat.
Hi Kaaren, Yes, that is correct. On a traditional kilt, the pleats do go in the back. This kilt is inspired by the kilts of punk rock, Alexander McQueen, and Vivienne Westwood, which are not traditional kilts. If you are looking for a more traditional kilt design, I suggest consulting Scottish kiltmakers and artisans to learn the craft from a direct source.
H buckles are the wrong direction also, as well as the apron goes in front, pleats in back. Period.
Hi M, this is obviously not a traditional kilt, but you are welcome to make those adjustments if you wish.
When is the front skirt lining used please?
Hi Ann!
We’re sorry for the delay in responding to your question! We get dozens of comments and questions each day, and so many questions get buried and, unfortunately, unanswered. We are now focusing user support on patterns 2 years and newer. We hope this will prevent questions on our more current patterns from going unanswered. Although this is late, we wanted to respond in case anyone else has the same question:
The lining is optional so it was not included in the instructions. If you wanted to add a lining, I would cut out the skirt pieces in the lining fabric, then sew the skirt lining. Place the skirt and lining wrong sides together. Baste together at the top, then hem the skirt by tucking the lining inside the self’s hem. Pleat the lining into the self, press, then attach the waistband. 🙂
Reverse/mirror hack the pattern? – put the pleats in back
Do you have AO or projector files?
Hi Cate, Currently our patterns are only available in A4 & US Letter sizes. 😀
Thank you so much for this pattern! I just saw a skirt in a store yesterday and wanted to make myself one. So this was perfect timing finding this here. I’m going to make myself the strap buckle closures as I have all the materials in my sewing room to do so. Thanks again!!!!
Does this really just take one yard of fabric?? Even in the larger sizes? I keep thinking I must be missing the yardage info.
I love this pattern and would love to make it! I do wish it were longer but I can try to figure that out.
Hi Maureen! If you look at the top right corner of the post you will see a “Shop this Look” widget that can help you determine fabric yardage for your size range. For larger sizes, we recommend 1.5-2 yds of fabric. If you are making it longer, you may need a little more. 😀
I am so excited for this pattern thanks!!!!
I just cut out the pattern and was about to lay it on my fabric when I noticed “lining” on a few of the pattern pieces. There is no mention of lining in the directions. Is this the Heathered Black Warp Knitting Fusible Interfacing mentioned in the “materials needed” list?
Thank you!
Hi Wendy! The lining is optional, we chose to make it without. 😀
Awesome!! thank you. I’m super psyched to get started on this. 🙂
How would you add it in the instructions?
Hi Aimee! I would cut out the skirt pieces in the lining fabric, then sew the skirt lining. Place the skirt and lining wrong sides together. Baste together at the top, then hem the skirt by tucking the lining inside the self’s hem. Pleat the lining into the self, press, then attach the waistband.
HI, I am wondering if this could be made also longer, like knee lenght? and how much material it would need?
Hi Mihaela, we’re so sorry for the delay in responding. You can absolutely lengthen this. Just add that length onto the pattern piece to calculate the exact yardage you need.
Made this skirt today. Love it . Came out so cute. Used distressed velvet lined with cotton. Pleather and rhinestone buckles. . Thanks for the free pattern
I want to sew this for my granddaughter for school they have uniforms, how difficult would it be to add length not much maybe a few inches? I would hate for them to get into trouble for wearing a to short skirt. I love this pattern, could I also use a pleat board for this project?
Adding length would be easy for this pattern! I’ve never worked with a pleat board but if it works for you let us know 🙂
i’m confused by “3. Repeat with the side back skirt and left front skirt.
wouldn’t this close the skirt and make it not a wrap skirt?
Hello, Sophie! The step that you’re referring to is meant to close the skirt at the left side back. The skirt will remain open because you aren’t sewing the left front skirt to the right front skirt. 🙂
what would you consider the difficulty of this pattern is?
Hi Olivia, I would say this is an intermediate pattern with the pleats and panels!
hi, while making the skirt i noticed the waistband is much shorter than the skirt and they don’t match up. do you have an idea of why this is happening? thanks 🙂
Hi Olivia, we’re so sorry for the late reply. We’re sure you’ve figured it out, but we still wanted to answer your question in case anyone else had the same problem.
First of all, make sure all the correct sizes have been cut.
Second, try to identify which pieces aren’t matching. Hopefully the back skirt matches the back waist. If the difference is in the front skirt & front waist, it’s most likely a pleating issue. Just readjust the pleats!
Do you have any more information about what you mean by “Make the pleats using the notches as a guide.” How WIDE are the pleats?
Hi Nathan, we’re so sorry for the late reply, but we still wanted to answer in case anyone else had the same question. The finished width of pleats varies from approximately 1.25″ – 2.25″ depending on the size. The pleating instructions have been revised for more clarity. 🙂
Hi! There is no grainline on G piece (side back skirt) and i’m a little confused with that tartan fabric.
Can you help me?
Thanks
Hello there!
Thanks for visiting the Mood Sewciety Blog! We’re proud to have released over 350 free sewing patterns, and we hope you’re enjoying them.
Behind the scenes we’re a dedicated team of three, and we want to be able to offer top notch support. We have exciting plans for our patterns on the horizon, and as we continue to grow, we’ve decided to focus our sewist support on patterns from the last 2 years. If this pattern hasn’t been recently reduxed or updated, we won’t be able to respond to technical questions on these older posts.
If you come across any pattern errors, rest assured our team is on it – just let us know!
Don’t miss out on our Mood Sewciety Facebook Group – a fantastic space for fellow sewists to connect, share wins, and tackle challenges together.
Thank you for your understanding and happy sewing!
Thank you for answering my question !
would it be possible to switch the buckles for a zipper?
Hi Charlotte! You can absolutely use a zipper! It might require a bit of adjustment though, so I suggest making a mock up first.
Would it be possible for you to have more pictures/videos of how to make this wonderful skirt? I’m a little stuck on how to do the panels in the front.
Hi Ibby! We currently don’t have any video tutorials for our free patterns, but I’m happy to answer any specific questions you have. What part are you stuck on exactly? Is it the pleats?
does the right front panel really end right in the center front? where would the front lining go if you DO want to include it? the waistband is about three inches shorter than my skirt every time I make it; even with acute attention to detail. I really dislike the available information to trouble shoot with. All the photos are too zoomed in and don’t have necessary info for completion. I seriously don’t understand how people are confidently finishing this skirt.
Hi Milly! You are correct, the inner front panel edge should sit at the center front, but if you want to extend it, it should be an easy adjustment. I might include a hook and eye to secure it to the inside of the skirt though.
It sounds like you might be having trouble with the pleats? This project was last year, but if I remember correctly, I measured the front of the pleats to ensure they were the same width, but the wrong side of the pleats are not as exact as the right side. The actual width of the pleats might vary a bit, in order to get the skirt to fit onto the waistband.
If you have any specific questions, I’m happy to help. 🙂
Hello, I would like to know how to substitute the 2 decorative closure you used with something simpler.. maybe 2 buttons would be good? do you have suggestions? Also do you have the instructions for making it lined? thank you!
Hi Sara, we’re sorry for the delay in responding to your question! We get dozens of comments and questions each day, and so many questions get buried and, unfortunately, unanswered. We are now focusing user support on patterns 2 years and newer. We hope this will prevent questions on our more current patterns from going unanswered. Although this is late, we wanted to respond in case anyone else has the same question: you could use 2 buttons or 2 ties! For making the skirt lined, I would cut out the skirt pieces in the lining fabric, then sew the skirt lining. Place the skirt and lining wrong sides together. Baste together at the top, then hem the skirt by tucking the lining inside the self’s hem. Pleat the lining into the self, press, then attach the waistband.
I like it
Hello I was wondering if I needed to print out every single page for the sewing pattern? I was just thinking that it’s a lot of paper being wasted and it uses up a lot of my printer ink. Is there any way to just filter for our size on the pattern or do I have to print out all 45 pages?
Hello,
Thank you for visiting and downloading from Mood Sewciety!
In order to keep our free sewing patterns free, we are exclusively offering an A4-Letter size version that includes all sizes.
We appreciate your request and will keep it in mind for future patterns.
Happy Sewing!
The MoodSewciety Team
hello. do i need to print out every single page? i think it is a little wasteful to print out all 45 pages. is there an option to print out our sizes?
Hello,
Thank you for visiting and downloading from Mood Sewciety!
In order to keep our free sewing patterns free, we are exclusively offering an A4-Letter size version that includes all sizes.
We appreciate your request and will keep it in mind for future patterns.
Happy Sewing!
The MoodSewciety Team