It may seem too soon to start thinking about your transitional wardrobe, but before you know it, August will be behind us and we’ll all be scrambling to sew some sweaters and jackets. The Trillium Ensemble free sewing pattern has you covered. With the perfect summer shorts that can be easily tailored to your body shape, and a cropped jacket that can be thrown on over a tank top and take you into September with ease, this pattern has everything. This gorgeous version was made with one of Mood’s new exclusive sateen prints, but it would look equally stunning in a solid cotton twill or denim!
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 4 yards Mood Exclusive Cameo Stretch Cotton Sateen
- 8 Italian Rose Gold Zamac Shank Back Buttons – 44L/28mm
- 9″ Invisible Zipper
- MDF207 – The Trillium Ensemble Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
Let’s begin with the jacket, which has quite a few steps, but luckily isn’t too complicated.
First, create each of your pocket flaps by sewing two face to face at stitching along the bottom edges. Clip the seam allowance at the corners, flip right side out, and press.
Tuck the raw edges along the top of your pocket flaps inward and place them onto the front jacket pieces, lining up the guide on the pattern. Typically, it might be easier to sew the flaps after the pockets, but since this is where you may be doing print matching like me, flaps first is better. Top-stitch into place.
Following the guidelines on your pattern again, form the button placket along the front of your jacket by folding the raw edge toward the inside of your jacket. Pin and stitch into place.
Form your pockets by folding the lower three edges inward 1/2″ and pressing. Pleat according to your pattern guidelines and pin beneath your pocket flaps and stitch into place.
Next, form the back of your jacket by pleating the lower back into one of the yoke pieces with fabric faces together. Sew the second yoke panel along the inside of the jacket so the same allowance is sandwiched between both yoke pieces when folded up. Press and edge-stitch along the bottom of the yoke.
Attach the front and back of your jacket at the shoulders and side seams using French seams. Following the guide on your pattern, fold the bottom edge up toward the inside of your jacket and press, like you see below. Fold the raw edge in 1/2″ and stitch into place.
Create each of your sleeves, attaching the larger curve of the lower sleeve with the bottom edge of the upper sleeve. If you’re not using a super thick fabric, this can be done with a French seam. If using something weightier than sateen, a regular seam or serged seam would suffice. Either way, I recommend top-stitching the seam allowance into place, like you see below.
Note: This sleeve is extra long, as it’s meant to bunch around the wrists. If you’d like to shorten your sleeve, the bottom needs to remain the same width as the original in order to fit onto the lower sleeve. Instead of shortening your upper sleeve from the bottom, fold it toward the middle and rework the sides, like you see below.
Set each sleeve into their respective armscyes. Since French seams can be tricky here, I’d recommend a serged seam or a regular seam bound with bias tape to keep the inside of your jacket clean.
Create each of your sleeve cuffs, sewing the sides with the fabric faces together. Press open your seam and attach it to the bottom of your lower sleeve. Fold the cuff in half toward the inside of your sleeve and tuck in the raw edges. Pin and slip-stitch the inside of your cuff to complete each sleeve.
Attach one of your collar pieces to the neckline of your jacket, fabric faces together like below. Attach the facing along the top three edges like to lower right-hand image. Clip the seam allowances and turn right side out. Press your newly formed collar and tuck in the raw edges along the bottom. Slip-stitch into place.
Lastly, finish up your jacket by attaching buttons and corresponding button holes along the front placket, as well as on your pockets.
Attach the two front panels at the front rise using French seams and insert your darts following the guides on the pattern. Repeat with your two back shorts panels.
Following the guides on your pattern again, pleat your pockets similarly to how you formed them for your jacket above. Top-stitch them into place on your shorts front.
Finish attaching the front and back of your shorts at the side and inseams.
Create your waistband facing, attaching the front and back at the side opposite your zipper. Finish the bottom edge of the facing with a baby hem and then pin face to face along the top edge of your shorts, lining up the sewn side seams. Flip the facing toward the inside of your garment, press, and slip-stitch the ends to your zipper. I also chose to edge-stitch along the top of the shorts, which you can see peeking out from beneath the jacket below, but that is optional.
Lastly, hem your shorts to your desired length with a basic rolled hem. Hand sew buttons onto your shorts pockets, mostly for show, but also to keep the top of the pocket pleated.
Will you be giving the Trillium Ensemble a try? Let me know what color you’ll be making yours!