The rumors are true— bad fit ruins a great idea. Everyone runs into this issue from time to time, but what if you don’t fit into standard sizes? RTW clothing for the plus-size community doesn’t offer as much variety. Speaking with people around me and doing research has told me that the plus-sized clothing community is lacking in every way from style to a range of price points. Luckily, the sewing community carries a beacon of light for all! Sewists can make their clothes their way. This extension to our Alterations Guide for Women covers the tricky areas and solutions for plus-sized women when shopping or making RTW clothing.
Common Top Alterations for Plus Size Patterns
Sleeves Too Tight
Problem: Sleeves feel constrictive
Solution: Add ease by using the cut and slash method down the vertical center of the sleeve and at the widest part of the underarm, and adjust as needed. For additional room that is more than 1”, consider adding ease to the sleeve cap to keep dimensions from getting wacky.
Bust is Tight
Problem: Gaping at arms or draglines at chest
Solution: Add fullness to the waist and bust dart, and at the armhole by using the cut and spread method. This will make the front bodice larger at the bust without compromising the fit at the shoulders and waist.
Common Bottom Alterations for Plus Size Patterns
Tight at Waist (this works best for skirts and dresses)
Problem: Waist/ tummy feel constricted
Solution: Use cut and spread method to add width to waist/tummy while keeping the hip curve length proportionate.
Ill Fitting Thighs
Problem: Pulling or large wrinkles beneath crotch area
Solution: Use the slash and spread method by creating 4 lines. There will be one at the waist, 2 through the thigh and 1 around the knee. Adjust the cut lines as needed.
This concluding paragraph is going to be a bit cheesy— sometimes you gotta embrace it.
The clothing industry may continue to exclude certain body types, but with basic fit and alterations knowledge, you don’t have to conform. You can create patterns that are in size “you!” All bodies are unique. Activities, age, and genetics affect our bodies in different ways at different times. The best thing you can do for yourself is to love your body in its current state and fill your mind with the knowledge needed to make changes to your garments so that you feel the most confident!
What is the most common alteration you find yourself making to patterns?
Drop a comment below!
8 comments
Thank you! I needed this for Covid eating binges. I really appreciate this!
Stephanie, thank you for this! The diagrams make it clear where to “slash”. I’m a little confused about how to “spread” the pants example. Does the whole pattern spread along cut 1 so that cuts 2-4 look like teeth of a zipper?
Even tips for adjusting plus sized patterns usually don’t help me. My bust, waist and hip measurements are nearly identical. So for pants to fit my waist, they are huge in the hips and crotch. I also have a stomach and wide shoulders. This makes tops too small around and sleeves too short. Basically I’m built like a guy – I’m not curvy which is what plus sizes are cut for.
Hi, Jolin! I feel that – I often have to make similar adjustments. Our IGTV channel has a Patternmaking series that shows a bunch of common pattern adjustments and how to make them, if that helps!
Oh my God, you just perfectly described my body. I feel your pain.
I absolutely LOVE this! Alterations are the trick to dealing in this crazy world of off-the-rack body types and clothing that just doesn’t fit any REAL people correctly. Thank you for sharing!
Just found this post. As another curvy girl, I have the most trouble with RTW/OTR button-down shirts going “HI, LOOK AT ME!” at the bust line. /facepalm A snap hidden in the interior of the placket helps a little, and I’ve learned to play with scarves to hide that problem but it always seems obvious, at least to me, and the “pussy bow” blouse style has never been appealing to me. Since I have a short torso and narrow shoulders, OTR shirts that size to my shoulders inevitably produce the gapping problem, while those that I’ve tried to buy to fit my bust look like circus tents through the shoulders and arms! I’ve pretty much come to the conclusion that making and/or tailoring my own shirts is the only tenable solution, and I am very grateful for the multitude of free patterns and the wealth of expertise made available by Mood!
It would be handy if more of your sewing tips and techniques included gender neutral and menswear,. The sewing industry caters mostly to woman-identified consumers, and Lots of big bodied people don’t identify that way.