What’s the best thing that could happen when looking for patterns? Having two patterns in one! Check out Mood’s newest two-in-one pattern, The Wren Shirt. View A is a simple (yet elegant and wardrobe-required!) shirt with long sleeves, while View B features a cropped sleeve with a mameluke overlay. Both views are easy to construct and are perfect for summer. Not only can this shirt be made in shirting, but you can also use organza and voile!
Purchase Materials Used Below:
View A (Simple Sleeve):
- 2-3 yards White Alyssum and Multicolor Plaid Twill Cotton Shirting
- 6-8 Italian White Plastic 4-Hole Button – 16L/10mm
- Dritz Black Hooks & Eyes Size 2 – 14ct
- Optional: Weft Interfacing
- MDF300 – The Wren Shirt Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
View B (Statement Sleeve):
Note: All seams are ½’’ besides the collar and the neckline, which are sewn at ⅜’’.
Note: For finishing the armscye raw edge, you can use a serger, pink the edge, bias bind it or use a zig zag stitch.
For View A: Follow steps 1- 22.
For View B: Follow steps 1-7, 17- 32.
1. Print, tape, and cut pattern.
2. Place the pattern pieces on the fabric and cut.
3. Cut out interfacing pieces and fuse them together. For the placket cut a 1’’ strip and place it ⅜’’ away from the edge and iron.
4. Notch all your fabric pieces and mark darts.
5. Fold your placket back ⅜’’, then 1’’ and pin.
6. Fold over the top of your placket, and sew to the collar notch. Clip your corner. Once sewn, press and topstitch the placket.
7. Sew your darts and press the dart using a tailor’s ham.
8. Using a French seam, sew front and back together at shoulder and side seams.
9. Cut the slit in your sleeve pattern. Pin and sew the bias strip to the sleeve at ¼’’.
10. Fold the raw edge of the bias tape inside and edge stitch.
11. Next, fold your sleeve in half and sew it along the side seam.
12. Pin and sew your sleeves into the armscye.
13. Pin and sew your cuff, leaving the top edge open. Trim seam allowances and turn right side out.
14. Sew a gather line on the bottom of the sleeve. Fold the top edge of the bias binding under into the cuff. Pin the rest of the cuff and adjust gathers to fit and stitch.
15. Once sewn, press cuff, and slip stitch in the slip stitch the raw edges shut.
16. Next fold the bias bound seam in half and sew a line at the top.
17. With right sides together, pin and sew collar at ⅜’’. Trim and press.
18. With right sides together and matching notches, pin one side of the collar to the shirt. Sew ⅜’’.
19. Fold under the raw edge and slip stitch shut.
20. Mark and sew buttons.
21. Sew hook and eyes at the top of each cuff. Optional to leave open.
22. Fold the hem ¼’’ then ¼’’ and stitch.
23. For View B, fold the lining sleeve in half, pin, and stitch. Place two pins where markings are indicated for the gather line.
24. Stitch gather lines on the outer sleeve. Once that is done fold the sleeve right sides together and stitch.
25. With wrong sides together and matching your seams, pin the lining to the outer piece matching the pins that were placed to the gather lines.
26. Remove the arm from your sewing machine. Slip the sleeve through the arm, starting with the top. Where pins are placed, using a regular stitch next to your basting stitch.
27. Gather the top part of the sleeve, pin and sew to the lining, just like you did on the lower gather.
28. Next sew a gather stitch at the sleeve cap, gather and then stay stitch down.
29. Pin the sleeve to the armscye, matching notches, and stitch.
30. Pin and sew your cuff the same way as you did in view A.
31. At the bottom of your sleeve, add another basting stitch. Pull threads to match the cuff.
32. Fold raw edge under, and slip stitch shut.
33. Fold the hem the same way you did in view A.