Whether you’re strutting your style during NYFW, attending an art gallery opening, or doing pretty much anything in Brooklyn, you may need something just a little extra. With denim being seen on every runway from Alice + Olivia to Vetements, you can’t go wrong with a dramatic denim dress. The Xyris features a long, sweeping silhouette for an utterly showstopping look. Wear it closed, or transform it into the perfect transition jacket by wearing it open as summer turns to fall.
Fabrics & materials used:
- 3 yards Indigo and Natural Striped Cotton Denim
- Denim Machine Needles
- Extra Strong Thread
- 2 pkgs White Heavy Duty Snaps
- Optional: Dritz Heavy Duty Snap Plier Kit
- MDF072 – The Xyris Dress Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
Once your pattern pieces are cut out, it’s easiest to begin with the bodice of your dress. If you have a serger, this would be a great project for it, but if you’re stuck with a basic sewing machine like me, a zig-zag stitch or French seams can work wonders for keeping your raw edges neat and tidy.
First, attach your Side Front Bodice to your Middle Front Bodice panel using a zig-zag stitch, and top-stitch to secure. Repeat with your Front Bodice panel, like you see below.
On your Pocket pieces, fold your top edge down towards the wrong side and zig-zag stitch along the top. Fold the remaining raw edges inward and pin 1″ from the top edge of the bodice pieces you just put together in the previous step. Edge-stitch into place, like you see below.
Fold the raw edges of your Pocket Flap under and stitch, then pin above your sewn on Pocket and stay-stitch into place.
Add your Front Yoke panel on top, sandwiching your pocket in between your Bodice and Yoke pieces. Secure with a zig-zag stitch.
Fold your Front Yoke upward, press and edge-stitch, like below.
Attach your Back Bodice pieces at the center back seam and then sew to your Back Yoke similarly to the previous step.
Attach your front and back bodice panels at the should seams and then edge-stitch, like you can see below.
Lining up your notches, add your sleeves to each armscye.
Close your sleeve inseam and side bodice seam and then attach your sleeve cuff, like in the image below. Fold the cuff in half, inward, and tuck in your raw edges. I slip-stitched the cuff closed along the inside of the sleeve, but you could also edge-stitch for added detail.
Along the neckline of your dress, attach one layer of your collar. If you’re using a more lightweight denim, you may want to interface one of both collar pieces. Add your second layer along the top three edges, fabric faces together. Turn right side out, press and fold the bottom edge inward, and edge-stitch around the entirety of the collar.
Attach your Bodice Plackets along the front of your dress, like below. Again, if using a lighter denim, be sure to interface these pieces.
Fold your plackets in half, toward the inside of your dress and tuck your seam allowance inward. Press and stitch along the edge to close.
Add both layers of your waistband, sandwiching your dress bodice in between, like you see below. Be sure to leave 1/2″ seam allowance at one end, with the excess extending from the other end, like below.
Next, add your darts to each of your skirt pieces and then attach each of your skirt panels with French seams. Add your plackets similarly to how you attached them to your bodice and then sew your skirt along the outer layer of your waistband. Once your skirt is attached, slip-stitch the inner layer of your waistband closed by hand.
Following the instructions on the back of your Dritz plier kit or snap tool, insert 9 snaps along the front placket of your dress, as well as one on each pocket of your bodice.
Lastly, fold your hem up 1/2″ and then another 2.5″ and stitch into place to complete the hem of your dress.
I can’t wait to see how people make this pattern on their own. Let me know what fabrics you’re considering using in the comments below!
Thank you so much for including the technical drawing of the pattern! Every time I’d check out your patterns I’d be a bit confused because there wouldn’t be any full-on, front facing shots of the finished product. Now I know the details of this dress without having to go through the pattern pieces. Thank you again.
NICE!!! I can’t wait to make one! THANKS!!!
I use to have a coat like this with émbroidery from the collar to the hem bilaterally. I received so many compliments on that Jean coat I would love to have another and now I can! Thanks!!!! 🙂
Yum! But it needs bottom pockets! I’ll have to draft a couple…
Just finished making this over the weekend! Absolutely love it. I added pockets to the bottom, and it’s just perfect. Thanks for the pattern!
Just finished mine. Great pattern! I shortened the skirt and made it into a lightweight jacket. Very cool!
I am going to try this one . Can not wait to se it!!
is it possible to make the bodice and skirt as one piece, eliminate the join?
if so I would love your know on how to make those adjustments
or if you have a shirt dress pattern you can share
many advance thanks
Hi Nicole, I think you could! You’d just need to tape the bodice, waistband, and skirt pieces together. Just be sure to overlap the pieces 1″ along the seams to account for the 1/2″ seam allowance included in the pattern. I hope this makes sense! 🙂
thanks sooo much, Courtney I will try it in a sequin fabric. ;}
Hi Courtney, thank you and all the other beautiful ladies for sharing your patterns. I can’t get enough. I was considering this in Sateen or cotton polyester stretch broadcloth. What do you think?
Hi Liza! So glad you’re enjoying the patterns. 🙂 I’m a huge fan of sateen – especially if it’s cotton, it’ll breathe and wear much nicer than a poly option.
Very nice, tysm for the pattern
i really love this
I want to make this but lengthen it, add a belt tie, and switch the sleeves out for some lantern sleeves. <3